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RepRapPro's Ormerod http://reprap.org/wiki/Ormerod
Re: Flight Simulator Aircraft Gauges – Instruments (Arduino controlled) - 2 years ago
Hi Upali, Link2FS allowed you to select a number of different flight simulator data to output to an Arduino., thus you could then control some form of display/gauge etc. Link2FS also allowed you to input controls into flight simulator. Basically I used Lua to do what Link2fs did with similar format of the extracted data for outputting to Arduino boards. Looks as if the lua file that I posted hasby RepRot - Look what I made!
Re: Flight Simulator Aircraft Gauges – Instruments (Arduino controlled) - 2 years ago
Hi Simpilot, Hope the following may help you.. Cheers Bruce.. May pay to do a google search for: Command Gateway FSUIPC and that a look at openairbuscockpit. site. Must have a registered version of FSUIPC.... I started with this and due to the number a gauges and I then wrote my own lua file. Command Gateway had speed issues with lots of gauges but good to use with a couple of gauges. Once yby RepRot - Look what I made!
Re: Fountain pens - 3 years ago
Very cool, looks brilliant... I have found lockdown gives you a bit more time to post things on the forum.by RepRot - Look what I made!
Re: Flight Simulator Aircraft Gauges – Instruments (Arduino controlled) - 3 years ago
I may look at adding a radio panel at some stage. First I need to update my computer as Prepar3D v5 needs a fast computer with a really good graphics card to get good scenery. Need to spend some time to learn how I can setup another screen for GPS navigation. Its a lot of time and work to design and build what I have already done.. Another one wouldn't be so bad after learning a lot. Would like aby RepRot - Look what I made!
Golf Tee Area Markers - 3 years ago
I made some large concrete golf balls for use as tee markers at a local golf club. To do this, I made a mould with my 3D printer using ABS plastic filament. Each concrete golf ball marker is 120mm in diameter (4 ¾ inches). The 3D printed mould I made consists of eight 3D printed parts which I hold together in a polycarbonate box when filling. The top 4 molded parts have a small hole which Iby RepRot - Look what I made!
Flight Simulator Aircraft Gauges – Instruments (Arduino controlled) - 3 years ago
In the pursuit of a more realistic flight simulator controls and display and also having already designed and built a control console and foot controls with force feedback; I thought I would try and design and build a set of aircraft gauges. I used my 3D printer that I had built to make a lot of the gauge parts. With each aircraft generally having a set of gauges that are suited for itsby RepRot - Look what I made!
Re: Cable Management - 4 years ago
As already said, PVC Electrical tape is not good as it goes sticky and generally comes off after a while. However I found Tesa adhesive cloth fabric for wiring loom is good. The coroplast type I have found better than the non coroplast. The coroplast I have had has a furry soft surface and appears to stick better. It's listed on Ebay. - it comes in different widths and lengths, I have only uby RepRot - Reprappers
Re: Using Z_DUAL_ENDSTOPS for build plate leveling on Z_MAX with probing on Z_MIN - 5 years ago
I have used auto homing (Syncing) using dual Z steppers motors on two of my printers and it is a very nice feature to have. You need a home sensor for each Z stepper motor. My first printer which has separate stepper driver boards (eg doesn't use a ramps board), I made an additional PCB board which has a circuit that when homing the Z axis, it drives both z stepper motors until the first Z steby RepRot - Firmware - Marlin
Re: PC Flight Simulator controls - 6 years ago
Thanks for that David, I can see a need for your encoder driver... Using it for a radio panel would be really great with lots of encoder switches. All comes down to making sure you catch the encoder change and as its only a hand movement on the encoders, speed is not that great. I think I would still have run out of I/O's even having the encoders sharing I/O pins on the Leonardo processor. Thby RepRot - Look what I made!
Re: PC Flight Simulator controls - 6 years ago
Hi, As the controls are moved away from their central position a PMW signal is sent via the a 7amp H-bridge driver to try and drive the motor back to its central position. The more the control is moved, the higher rate of PWM is generated. When the controls are centred, I have a small null area where no PWM signal occurs. All 3 controls are self centering. The motors draw about 2 - 3 amps. Whby RepRot - Look what I made!
PC Flight Simulator controls - 6 years ago
Having learnt a LOT with designing and building my versions of a Mendel and a CoreXY 3D printers I decided that I would have a go at designing and building a set of PC Flight Simulator Controls. Having learnt to fly Cessna 152's and 172's a few years back, I wanted a set of controls based on the Cessna 172 design and I wanted them to have a more realistic look and feel, however I didn’t want aby RepRot - Look what I made!
Re: Staged heating extruder - 6 years ago
I have an enclosure around my printer as well as the filament roll. The temperature within this enclosure sits around 35c degrees which basically preheats the complete roll of filament. I found that I got better filament flow and my prints were far better with this arrangement. The other thing I also get better prints in the winter when the air temperature was low. A more complete temperatureby RepRot - Mechanics
Re: Heated Build Chamber - Temperature Control - 7 years ago
Been doing a bit of work with my CoreXY with an heated enclosure. I tried adding a 100w heater, got temperature up another 10C but was very slow to get temperature there, now looking at using a 300w. One guy is using a 500w and gets temperature up in about 4 minutes which is faster than it takes the heat bed to get up to temperature. refer toby RepRot - Reprappers
Re: CORE XY Enclosure - 7 years ago
Thanks for the feedback digital dentist... looks as if I need something less than 500w but greater than 100w.. so will order a 300w heater and see how I go. Cheersby RepRot - CoreXY Machines
Re: CORE XY Enclosure - 7 years ago
Thanks o lampe, Will look at adding changes for M190 as well. I will be running an earth wire to the heat sink and an inline fuse (1.5amp) as well as some additional thermal type insulation (double insulation) around the heater leads to be on the safe side. I believe these types of heaters are used with heated moulds, I have worked with similar heaters that were 110 VAC. Did look at silicoby RepRot - CoreXY Machines
Re: CORE XY Enclosure - 7 years ago
Further update.... Just added a 6 ohm 100w resistor to a heat sink and supplied it with 24VAC which gave me a 100 watt enclosure heater. I had to run my bed fan (used for cooling down parts after print is finished) to dispense the heat from the heat sink. I was able to get the temperature up to a max temperature of 50C by running the 100 watt heater continuously. This gave me about 10C temp inby RepRot - CoreXY Machines
Re: RAMPS/MARLIN additional Z stepper and heater outputs ? - 7 years ago
Hi, I am currently using 1.0.3 dev firmware and have 7 endstops working on a CoreXY printer -- XMin / XMax - YMin / YMax - ZMin / Z2Min and Z Max. I had to add and change a couple of things with this firmware to get it working. Configuration.h Line 319 Added #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_Z2MIN Configuration_adv.h Line 149 Default #define Z2_MAX_PIN 6 Change #define Z2_MIN_PIN 5by RepRot - General
Re: X and Y Stepper Motor Noise - 7 years ago
Sit your printer on some rubber and see if it still makes the noise. You can get some odd sounds that will vibrate though a printer.by RepRot - CoreXY Machines
Re: CORE XY Enclosure - 7 years ago
Hi, When I designed my printer I wasn't really planning too much on having an enclosure but had thought about it . I used a PC style power supply which has one internal cooling fan and also boxed up the Arduino Meg and Ramps PCB which I added a small fan to keep the stepper drivers cool. In the quest for improved prints and I also noticed the over the winter months I found print quality reduceby RepRot - CoreXY Machines
Re: CORE XY Enclosure - 7 years ago
Hi Origamib, I think you are right 60 watt heater won't be enough. The heat bed is rated at 150W and the print head 40W, which means 190W of power being used when first warming up the heat bed and hot end. (Different temperatures for both heaters) I would expect approximately about 60%- 80% of this 190W being used to keep temperatures up when printing (Approx 115W - 150W). I have a spare traby RepRot - CoreXY Machines
Re: Idea's for a next 3D printer - 7 years ago
the_digital_dentist [ PM ] Re: Idea's for a next 3D printer April 10, 2017 07:10AM Registered: 4 years ago Posts: 3,375 Do things the right way from the start. Build a rigid frame, use linear guides, minimize plastic parts, use cast tooling plate for the bed on 3 leveling screws, adequate bed heater (0.4 W/cm^2 or more), PEI print surface, 32 bit controller (but avoid modular motor driveby RepRot - General
Re: CORE XY Enclosure - 7 years ago
Thanks Origamb, Looking at using one of theses 12v 60W heaters. Plan to use a 12VAC supply and use Marlin firmware by enabling another extruder (only using 1 at present) to control the enclosure temperature and hopefully display the temperature on my 4 x 16 LCD. Been printing a few objects and the enclosure has been getting up to 40C after a short time. What I need is something to get the tempeby RepRot - CoreXY Machines
Re: CORE XY Enclosure - 7 years ago
Thanks Digital Dentist, Just added an air chute for the cooling of the Ramps PCB. The temperature in the enclosure only increased a couple of degrees to approx 38C. I have found so far with having an enclosure at a temperature of 38C that I am getting a lot better quality of print with larger parts, The filament is being extruded more evenly, not sure whether this because with my design that tby RepRot - CoreXY Machines
CORE XY Enclosure - 7 years ago
I have just built an enclosure for my CoreXY printer. I used 16mm thick MDF (Fibre wood) sheets with two 10mm thick polycarbonate doors. My power supply sucks in air from outside of the enclosure and the bulk of the air is expelled outside of the enclosure. A small amount of air goes from the power supply into the enclosure and there is a small fan which expells air from a box which houses theby RepRot - CoreXY Machines
Re: Heated Build Chamber - Temperature Control - 7 years ago
Hi, I have just built an enclosure for my CoreXY printer. I used 16mm thick MDF (Fibre wood) sheets with two 10mm thick polycarbonate doors. My power supply sucks in air from outside of the enclosure and the bulk of the air is expelled outside of the enclosure. A small amount of air goes from the power supply into the enclosure and there is a small fan which expells air from a box which housby RepRot - Reprappers
Re: Disable temperature protection on Marlin - 7 years ago
Marlin Sketch: Configuration.h Line 271 Default #define EXTRUDE_MINTEMP 170 Change #define EXTRUDE_MINTEMP 0 Make sure to reset back to the default setting when finished testing.by RepRot - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: speeding up print time 2 or 3 times by wallsubdivide - 7 years ago
Rather than using Acetone to polish the surface, coat printed item with XTC-3D. Easy to use and you don't use much. Gives a really great finish. A number of companies sell it around the world.by RepRot - Slic3r
Re: Filament Runout Sensor Problem - 7 years ago
Hi, From memory..... Configuration.h uncomment (remove//) - //#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR //#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR // Uncomment for defining a filament runout sensor such as a mechanical or opto endstop to check the existence of filament // In RAMPS uses servo pin 2. Can be changed in pins file. For other boards pin definition should be madby RepRot - Printing
Re: rotate object to touch bed fully - 7 years ago
Blender is good with rotating STL objects in all 3 axis's. Just import STL file, rotate and export STL file.. I use it quite often with changing objects that I print. You may design something and then add another piece and then find its better to print an object upside down rather than re-designing the object the correct way up in your CAD program. At times you may think its better to 3D print tby RepRot - Slic3r
Re: Custom Optical Filament Sensor/Alarm Module - 7 years ago
Hi On A Shoestring, 1. I used single photo sensor as that's all I could find at the time on ebay.. Its listed as a - " Optocoupler Speed Sensor Module LM393 for Arduino " price US$0.99. I don't see that you really need to monitor retractions, just that you have filament feeding when it should, but you could use dual photo sensors and monitor forward and reverse movement. 2. What I would lby RepRot - Developers