Damit gleichst Du eventuelle Fehlstellungen der Achsen (die im Idealfall rechtwinklig zueinander sein sollten) aus. Du druckst dazu nur das Testteil aus und misst dann wie beschrieben die Fehlstellungen und trägst das dann in deine setbed.g Datei ein. markbeeby markbee - Allgemeines
Confirming the setbed button doesn't work from the web interfaceby markbee - Ormerod
Meine Zahnräder für die Z-Achse waren von guter Qualität und ohne jede Abweichung. Ich benutze nach vielen Kilo Filament immer noch die mitgelieferten Original-Zahnräder. Die Zahnräder für den Extruder habe ich aber beispielsweise ausgetauscht (gegen Herringbone Zahnräder). Die Originale waren allerdings auch ohne Fehler. Für den X-Achsen Endstop funktioniert der IR-Sensor ohne Probleme. Die Y-Aby markbee - Allgemeines
Ich habe den Drucker auch und bekomme damit sehr gute Drucke hin (Layer bis zu 10 Mikrometer (!), minimalste Abweichungen bei den Abmessungen im Druck im Vergleich zum 3D-CAD-Modell). In der Tat ist es aber sehr abhängig davon, wie gut man den mechanischen Aufbau hinbekommt und wie gut man kalibrieren kann. Ist eben ein Bausatz und kein fertiges Produkt. Die Z-Achse habe ich zunächst mechanischby markbee - Allgemeines
I used almost the default settings for both slicer and where deviating for both almost the same settings as possible. But thanks for your suggestions, I will check those settings and try to print again. Markusby markbee - Ormerod
@dmould Maybe have a look at this thread Printing hangs/ freezes Markusby markbee - Ormerod
Hi Ray, I did not tweak the expert settings yet. Maybe increasing the infill overlap might "close" the solid infill better. Markusby markbee - Ormerod
Just doing some tests with different slicer software in combination with Ormerod and wanted to share some findings. I tried to keep almost the same settings with both - as far as this is possible. Generally speed is 20mm/s for both, temperatures are also the same (190°C). Printed from the web interface. Material is PLA. Slic3r (V1.0.0RC2) seems to be better when it comes to solid infill and hasby markbee - Ormerod
Photos? Markusby markbee - Ormerod
Magic Material?by markbee - Ormerod
Normally it's no problem to lasercut the parts. The .dxf is accurate as I lasercut the stuff for a second Ormerod already. They fit very good. I think printing would be less effective. It's also quite normal that lasercut parts - esp. where the laser is a bit out of focus or too weak for the part to cut - the cuts and holes get angled. Additionaly the structure of the cut differs sometimes muchby markbee - Ormerod
Hi John, I did some test with LAYWOO-D3 and it works w/o problems. You have to watch the temperature - low temperature means brighter, higher temperature darker wood. In any case you have to look a the extrusion parameters. I'm currently building an DIY extruder and hope to produce the material much cheaper this way. Markusby markbee - Ormerod
@Ray As far as I remember it was near the hobbed part. I changed the screw as I changed the original gears with herringbone ones. I had always some backlash there in certain situations. Since then I had no problems with the extruder drive - but didn't check the screw again. Maybe there was some misalignement? Markusby markbee - Ormerod
It doesn't wear that much if you use the supplied bowden tube to feed the filament. What worries me more is the wear of the screw in the extruder drive itself after only about 3kg filament printed . Markusby markbee - Ormerod
Hi Mike, I regularly do some tests with a one perimeter cube to adjust the extrusion multiplier ("filament settings" in slic3r). I have the same oberservations as you have where from the start point (which annoyingly still has a blob at the point where it starts) the first wall is thinner than the rest, than begins to get thicker. The second wall is too thick, while the third an forth are somehby markbee - Ormerod
Nice work! You are running out of filament Markusby markbee - Ormerod
Hi, nice webinterface that you built Matt. In my case when I access the Duet Web Server I have no problem doing this when on an PC connected by LAN. If I use a wireless LAN connection the server doesn't respond after some commands, esp. when I move the axes. I also have to log on, log off and log on again to get access to the Duet web server at all. I have tested above with v.0.60 both with remby markbee - Ormerod
Maybe not for your actual need of Filament/ PLA but an idea for the future: Markusby markbee - Ormerod
Hi Andrea, did you increase extruder retraction to 2.4mm @ 45mm/s? You could also try lower temperatures both for the extruder and the heated bed. Markusby markbee - Ormerod
Just one word on acetone - it is much more aggresive against plastics than isopropanol. The latter cleans good enough and costs the same, but be sure to work in a well ventilated area when you apply either of them, because both could irritate skin or mucous membranes (use gloves or other saftey measures). Also both are easily flammable - so watch for not having a 100°C hot bed and then applying (by markbee - Ormerod
Hi Kim, I really like OpenSCAD. It's open source and if you have (a bit) experience in programming it's quite easy to start with. Markusby markbee - Ormerod
Hi Andrea, yes it's a known bug and imho already on the list for future revision of the firmware. Markusby markbee - Ormerod
Hi Ingeneo70, I would suggest putting the supplied SD card to a place farthest away and use another (brand) one - hopefully you have one laying around. Markusby markbee - Ormerod
Hi arnaud31, it was PLA. Printing finer layers might be an option if parts at certain heights may have to be finer in resolution. With slic3r you can define certain heights to be printed in different layer height than the default. Markusby markbee - Ormerod
Hi Ray, yes that might be the reason and my fault of course. I just cut in half every layer height but should have thought of the full steps as it can be calculated here . Markusby markbee - Ormerod
Hi Mickyblueeyes, at least for Skeinforge there is a "Skin" plugin with which you can adjust the settings for the outer walls. I don't know how to do that with slic3r at least for now. Markusby markbee - Ormerod
Just a little show off what's possible with the Ormerod. I printed a cube with 20mm height and changed the layer thickness on different heights. It went down to 10 micrometer and imho looks quite good. It just gets a certain pattern when printing below 0.06mm. (The photo is distorted in the preview but ok if you click it) Markusby markbee - Ormerod
I'm quite amazed of the good print quality the Ormerod produces - even if it takes a lot of work to tweak the settings and control the build as there are many pitfalls (bearings, play etc.) to watch for. I recently made some 1 perimeter wide cubes (30*30*20mm) for testing and measuring the wall thickness and adjusting the extrusion multiplier in slic3r. All went well and I have tweaked the settiby markbee - Ormerod
Wiring should be like here: Also check you have plugged in the connector at the motor in the right direction. Markusby markbee - Ormerod
I would suggest to double-check the wiring of the y-axis motor. Could be reversed. Markusby markbee - Ormerod