Hi Ew, I outlined what I had to do to get it to run on my mac in page 1 of this thread - it should work for you too: Cheers Rayby rayhicks - Ormerod
I bought an Ormerod before christmas for 500GBP (before tax), spent a couple of days building it and three or four months troubleshooting and helping iron out bugs in firmware, then started to build a more robust machine re-using parts from it (especially the duet card). This last step ground to a halt in March due to work issues, and the fact that it would have helped to have a 3D printer to maby rayhicks - General Mendel Topics
Seven year old solution from nophead (prehistory for most of us!) Rayby rayhicks - Ormerod
Dave - My hunch is that it's caused by the printhead dropping when in the gap then lifting again as it hits the stuff already printed, and going into an oscillation ( EDIT possibly fed by the stopping and starting of extrusion too - the print head floats on the fresh extrusion when running up to the gap, stops extruding then restarts when it crosses the gap, however it's no longer floating andby rayhicks - Ormerod
Quotedc42 Hi zombiepl, can you post the gcode file you were printing when this happened, or at least the last 200 or so lines? zombiepantslol's observation is consistent with one I hinted at but didn't go into in the (I think) Cura thread when I mentioned that there were other issues as well as combined x/y/z moves I mentioned a potential issue with next/previous - what I've observed is that maby rayhicks - Ormerod
Quotedc42 Check that the cartridge heater hasn't come part way out of the alu block Good point dc42 - make sure you don't try reseating it when it's hot though kefke! Rayby rayhicks - Ormerod
Hi Kefke, it looks like you have an Ormerod with a duet controller and NewPerfection might have moved your post in here (the ormerod section of the forum). If your hotend is underreading it might be time to upgrade your firmware (if you haven't done so) to one of dc42's updates (which have recently featured improvements in temperature measurement and PID control) you can download from here Raby rayhicks - Ormerod
Quotehornbyben At around 20°C my hot end reads ~-18°C, Hi Ben, what did you enter for M301 Hxx ? I think from your previous postings a value of M301 H65 should get you in the right ball park, Rayby rayhicks - Ormerod
I think it's eminently workable as-is, but indeed the adc calibration parameters could have their own GCode, since they affect all of the analog inputs together - although not visibly in the case of the heated bed using the stock 10k thermistor, or presumably the Z-probe, since it's a linear parameter. I think you've done a great job of not treading on other gcodes' toes while shoehorning in a lby rayhicks - Ormerod
Quotedroftarts Most other firmware uses pre-generated thermistor tables embedded in firmware, requiring flashing updated firmware to change the thermistor values. We can change the thermistor values on the fly, as they are calculated by the firmware. I think splitting thermistor settings out from PID settings (M301) is advisable, or the M301 command becomes rather unwieldy, particularly if you'reby rayhicks - Ormerod
I plugged in different series R values before my earlier post into your excel spreadsheet dc42, for an offset the size of Ben's, changing the series to quite large numbers didn't affect the NaN result (maybe the series R isn't meant to be used that way in the spreadsheet, I'm not sure) which is why I suggested changing the reference voltage or the thermistor- Ben's offset looks to be around 65Lby rayhicks - Ormerod
Quotedc42 Unfortunately, if people get -273 at an ambient temp of +15 when using one of my recent firmware versions, then the calibration facility I have added won't help, Rats - I'd overlooked that the calibration is post-acquisition, this won't fix Ben's problem when his room temperature drops (he had -273 with a resistance of 141000 which should readout as around 17°C, nor mine which hits thby rayhicks - Ormerod
Hi Treth, I like the idea of glass (for my diy heater, which has a glass substrate, the heater upper surface will be the print surface), I'd hoped to use some of the aluminium laminate stuck on with silicone as a direct support for this with an insulator underneath, then another layer of glass for base so that I had something stiff and flat but elastic that would retain its shape (I'm using 2mmby rayhicks - Ormerod
keeping up Erik's nautical theme - each of the axes suffer from pitch, yaw and roll to greater or lesser extents - if the base of the Z pillar is the stern, and the side nearest the plate is the top of the boat, then Z suffers most from yaw and pitch - Kim's cure will address the yaw aspect, but not the pitch (which is minimal but real, and likely to be confused with a bed tilted along X), roll iby rayhicks - Ormerod
Quotedc42 I haven't looked at his changes in detail, I was waiting for him to finish them. fair enough dc42 Lets hope that it performs as well as the piecemeal improvements you've made so far when it's finished Rayby rayhicks - Ormerod
Has anyone tried ABS temperatures with this stuff? I stuck some in an oven at 100 (it didn't get hotter than 105 as far as I could measure) and it softened drastically (it took up the ridges of the shelf quite quickly, and I could shape it into a lovely arch without getting my hands burnt) - I guess with a good insulating layer between the bed PCB and the aluminium composite it wouldn't reach bedby rayhicks - Ormerod
Quotedmould The plugin is still necessary anyway, because Cura puts Z moves in the same command as X & Y moves, and these need to be separated. Dave (#106) interesting Dave - I partially printed a couple of things from Cura back in Feb before Frank did his plugin, and now you mention it, they were a little shallower than I'd expected. I just ran a plug-in free test cube with fast X and Yby rayhicks - Ormerod
Groneorm /KevM - dc42 has released a new firmware version which allow you to calibrate the temperatures using a 100k resistor for low temperatures and a 220ohm for high temperatures (though you could use other values along with the spreadsheet above) - please see this thread Rayby rayhicks - Ormerod
No problem dc42 - I'd suggested or nagged that you could maybe address these problems, so the least I could do was try out the fixes Out of interest, my other duet (which reported more accurately the low end temperature) needed the following to calibrate it: M301 H3 L-20. The effect of calibration on this one is rather subtle - measured and reported temperatures agree pretty fully over the meaby rayhicks - Ormerod
DaveK, it defaults to zero - which gives the same behaviour as before if you don't calibrate. There are some boards that badly need calibration to get printing going (otherwise they read as -273 when the room temperature drops in some cases, or don't reach a temperature high enough for extrusion in others) - if it's all working for you, just ignore the M301 L and H parameters. Cheers Rayby rayhicks - Ormerod
Quotedc42 2. I have added untested code to fix the problem when absolute extruder distances are used and a G92 command to set the extruder position is received. Absolute extrusion also seems to work - tested by restarting a print sliced by Cura without Frank's plugin, this used to provoke the rewind to E=0 on attempting the second run, it no longer does. Rayby rayhicks - Ormerod
Zombies, by the way, the ini files go inside the same .cura folder,in a subfolder named after the cura version but the best way to use them is to choose "Open profile..." from the file menu. As dc42 says, Cura uses absolute extruder positions by default - Frank had to write the plugin so that Cura output would be compatible with Ormerod. Absolute moves tell the Ormerod where it should be, relaby rayhicks - Ormerod
Hi dc42 - this seems to work fine except for one caveat - if the offset is high, the ADC outputs it's maximum reading when using a 220K resistor, so you get a reading of -273.15 no matter what correction is added my offset is around 50, Ben's is around 60-65 so would also not be able to use the 220k - I substituted a 100k resistor and adjusted M301 Hxx until it read 25.3. I'd already calculatedby rayhicks - Ormerod
Good stuff dc42 - especially the simplicity of calibration - I'll give it a go and will feedback asap. I'll also have a go at testing fix 2 Cheers Rayby rayhicks - Ormerod
Zombies - if you looked in "applications" and "libraries", I presume you're using a mac -right? If so I had this same problem, the Cura folder for plugins on macintosh is in your home directory, and it's called /.cura . The dot before the name makes it invisible unless you work some magic: open the terminal, then paste this: defaults write com.apple.Finder AppleShowAllFiles YES then hit thby rayhicks - Ormerod
Davek, have you changed M553 and M554 at the same time? If you don't, your router will ignore packets from your Ormerod, if you just set your laptop to the same subnet as the Ormerod, the router will ignore that too so there'll be no communication. dc42 also explained that the config.g wil override any "on the fly" commands and reset the addresses on the next boot - did you check the config.gby rayhicks - Ormerod
Dave - you can (and should) change the gateway/router address and subnet mask to match the ones that your network uses (rather than changing your laptop to match that) - there are gcodes for doing it the Gcodes are M552 for ethernet address, M553 for net mask and M554 for gateway/router. I'm not sure if these work on the fly or need to be in config.g (but I'd imagine they'll work on the fly) egby rayhicks - Ormerod
Hi Ben, it looks like your resistor data would fit with having a more extreme offset than my board (somewhere around 8 LSB o on 10 bit) I've plugged it into a modified version of dc42's spreadsheet that produces the expected ADC readings (with the addition of an offset), below is the data for when the offset is 65 /8 LSByou can see the 10 bit data matched your temperature readout quite closely.by rayhicks - Ormerod
You can also get copper tape in various widths at reasonable prices on eBay - I bought some for my DIY heatbed and it's eminently solderable Rayby rayhicks - Ormerod
Hi Kim, there's a pin header for a jumper on the board (JP9, also labelled 5V_EN ) that allows the 5V to be derived from the ATX 12V, using this will make the whole thing self-powered. There's another jumper, J10 that lets you derive the 5V from the ATX 5V line if you have that wired up - JP 9 is easier, though using 5V derived from the ATX psu will induce some noise on eg the probe sensor lineby rayhicks - Ormerod