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Re: Lost heat on extruder. - 4 years ago

Can anyone point me in a direction that I can try to fix this?

by tim_h - Ormerod

Re: Lost heat on extruder. - 4 years ago

I should add, I am using a DC42 hot end board, but I'm not sure that would have any bearing on the issue.

by tim_h - Ormerod

Lost heat on extruder. - 4 years ago

After a number of months of very little activity, my poor old Omerod 1 has been pressed into hard service making face shields I have been donating to local doctors surgeries and care homes, after producing almost 150 shields, and with demand for many more, my Ormerod has stopped heating the extruder. Temperature reading appears to be correct and on the thermistor I have around 80k Ohm. On the E0_

by tim_h - Ormerod

Re: Bowden clip - 4 years ago

Yes, that's the one, thanks.

by tim_h - Ormerod

Bowden clip - 4 years ago

Can anyone point me in the direction of an STL for the bowden tube retaining clip? I had a look on Github, but can't seem to be able to find the individual parts.

by tim_h - Ormerod

Re: Ormerod fell down, need acrylic parts - 4 years ago

I have a spare set of acrylic parts for original Ormerod if you still need some?

by tim_h - Ormerod

Re: Cooling block - where can I get one? - 6 years ago

Thanks for the replies, I'll take Eriks advice and have a go at knocking one up myself!

by tim_h - Ormerod

Cooling block - where can I get one? - 6 years ago

I have and early Ormerod 1 and want to add a cobra cooler like Erik has, as seen here: Does anyone have spare, or know where I can source an aluminium cooling block in order to lower the extrusion nozzle slightly?

by tim_h - Ormerod

Re: Broken PLA filament - 7 years ago

Just push it through gently, it should be fine.

by tim_h - Ormerod

Re: Slic3r keeps crashing - 7 years ago

Thanks David, I'll give the prusa edition a go. Hopefully I can copy the settings across from Slic3r.

by tim_h - Ormerod

Re: Slic3r keeps crashing - 7 years ago

Thanks, it is actually crashing, and bringing up the windows error message. Could you post your cura settings for the ormerod?

by tim_h - Ormerod

Slic3r keeps crashing - 7 years ago

I've revived my ormerod v1, which has sat idle for a while. Recently I have started to print some more complex pieces, often requiring support material. I had previously avoided parts requiring support, but am now printing parts for my RC planes and quadcopters. I'm using slic3r and find that the software often crashes during generating gcode operation when support material is needed. If I persev

by tim_h - Ormerod

Re: Anyone interested in an LCD control panel for the Ormerod? - 10 years ago

Firstly I want to thank David for all his hard work on this so far. I would also like the option of adding physical buttons. I work with industrial machines with HMI screens, and it is often difficult to make close adjustments with the inch / jog botton on a touch screen whilst looking at what the machine is doing. Having to look back at the screen to see where the button is on the screen is muc

by tim_h - Ormerod

Re: Anyone interested in an LCD control panel for the Ormerod? - 10 years ago

Put me down for one too please, option 1 preferred. I would opt for a self assemble kit of parts if available as an option. Is there scope for cursor keys in the design for manual control of the axes while making mechanical adjustments?

by tim_h - Ormerod

Re: Anyone interested in a modulated IR sensor + fan control + illumination board? - 10 years ago

I'll take a Kit 5, please.

by tim_h - Ormerod

Re: Double Helix Z-Gears - iamburny Style - 10 years ago

Thanks Matt, that's brilliant, the difference in print quality is amazing! What with this and your web interface I reckon I owe you at least a couple of pints! Cheers, Tim

by tim_h - Ormerod

Re: Double Helix Z-Gears - iamburny Style - 10 years ago

Thanks Matt, but there's no attachment?

by tim_h - Ormerod

Re: Double Helix Z-Gears - iamburny Style - 10 years ago

Matt, really appreciate all your work on this, I've just printed out your zgears from the the gcode you attached earlier and this is the cleanest, neatest, blob free print I've done so far. Would it be possible to share the slic3r settings you are using? I'd love to see what settings are different to the ones I'm using. I did notice it seems to print the second inner perimeter first, then the out

by tim_h - Ormerod

Re: My Ormerod burned... - 11 years ago

Probably best to start with 100K, and as dc42 says, reset Duet after connecting, once it sees an open circuit it seems to lock out.

by tim_h - Ormerod

Re: My Ormerod burned... - 11 years ago

It looks like the same stuff, Tyco Raychem TEF-R. From the data sheet it also states upto 400C for short periods.

by tim_h - Ormerod

Re: My Ormerod burned... - 11 years ago

Quotedroftarts The PTFE heatshink is quite specialised. It is 1/8" diameter (about 5mm when flat, unshrunk) clear PTFE heatshrink, 4:1 shrink ratio. I don't have another source for this - we get it from China! Would this RS 330-4765 be a suitable alternative? It has a lower shrink ratio, but unshrunk internal diameter is 2mm shrinks to 0.6mm, good to 250 C operating temp.

by tim_h - Ormerod

Re: Z height instability - 11 years ago

Quotedmould ... after which I send the G92 Z0 command which works because the position is at the zero (uncompensated) point... Dave Ah right thanks Dave, that explains why G92 wasn't working when I was using bed compensation. I had not realised G92 Z0 will only work at the G30 P0 position. It's all gradually becoming clearer!

by tim_h - Ormerod

Re: Firmware change proposals - 11 years ago

The advantage of a physical buttons to inch the axes is you don't have to look at them to use them. When you are making fine adjustments (to set the Z for example) you need to be looking at the machine, not your phone or clicking a mouse cursor in a box. Is is possible to control the web interface with the PC cursor keys or the number pad, this would give similar functionality with the existing

by tim_h - Ormerod

Re: Firmware change proposals - 11 years ago

I really like the idea of an external control panel, ideally to be able to inch and home the axes, set and check temps and to run gcodes from SD card.

by tim_h - Ormerod

Re: Laser cut parts edges not square. - 11 years ago

Thanks Ian, I have measured the distance between rods at each end, there is 0.5mm difference between ends. 92.3mm and 92.8mm external, 68.2 and 68.7 internal. How much of a difference is acceptable? I have emailed you to request replacement x axis parts, if you felt the y axis arms should be changed you could post them all together.

by tim_h - Ormerod

Re: PSU Cutting out... - 11 years ago

Paul, well done. As a first print it looks absolutely fine. My first attempts were a mess of stringy bits and 2 layer thick prints where the z axis was too low the duet board kept stalling! I don't think the axis compensation parts are not essential, they are only really important when you come to do big prints with dimensions that need to be accurate.

by tim_h - Ormerod

Re: "S" Axis.... Hot end Rocking - SOLVED... I hope.... - 11 years ago

Hmm, just thinking out loud, but it's strange that yours is convex along the back, mine was concave and gregstah's was S shaped? This part of the design really needs improving otherwise the head will never stay at the same height along the x axis. I agree that it the laser cut parts should be fixed together better, but not sure if extra screws or glueing are the best option, maybe both? It needs

by tim_h - Ormerod

Laser cut parts edges not square. - 11 years ago

I've noticed the edges on my laser cut y axis ends are not square on the short sides. This means when the y axis front rod is inserted it will not sit square in the hole, this is a tight fit and has the effect of pulling both arms out of line, like a parallelogram. I'm not sure if this will cause me a problem, but it certainly doesn't look good! This effect of laser cut parts not having straigh

by tim_h - Ormerod

Re: PSU Cutting out... - 11 years ago

Bad luck Paul, I had the same problem, see this post http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?340,287773 I solved mine with second hand PSU from a scrapped PC. I don't think the Alpine PSUs are the best quality... Tim

by tim_h - Ormerod

Re: "S" Axis.... Hot end Rocking - SOLVED... I hope.... - 11 years ago

Gutted, broken it! Just stripped it down to check this and found the X axis rib was protruding as gregstah described above, so I wanted to file it down, but found it was very firmly fixed into the x axis plate and snapped as I was gently prying it apart. Got to say I was surprised how easily it broke though, I'm not usually that ham-fisted! Looks like I will be using glue then!

by tim_h - Ormerod