The ulticampy2 measurements are slight different compare with ultimaker. I've heard that the ulticampy2 is based on Ultimaker2, which is much more stable and much better performance than the first version. That is why I try to build one.by tru168 - General
A little update here. I messaged dennisstu few weeks ago, but didn't receive any reply yet. I downloaded all CAD files and I spent a lot of money to CNC acrylic plates, and the finished acrylic are all un-useable, all holes are out of alignment. I paid to one of local CAD expert to check the files, and the expert said its too many error and can't be repair. I also can't get any correct filby tru168 - General
Hi dennisstu, Thank ytou! I just PM you just now. Just to remind that I'm looking for Ulticampy2, not the first version. Thanks !by tru168 - General
Hi all, I post wrong topic in reprapers section, so I move it here. I bought all parts for Ulticampy 2, (its Ultimaker 2 clone.) I downloaded CAD file for all panels but my local CNC fabricator said the CAD files are flat 2D drawing, without depth information. I contacted the author, and he replied that its easy to tell CNC fabricator which hole need to be mill through and which one don't . I tby tru168 - General
I post wrong topic in here, so I move the topic to "general" section. Thank you.by tru168 - Reprappers
Hi Campy, Gracias por su gran diseño usted! Tengo preguntas aquí, 1 ) en su lista de materiales, el número de dientes de 5mm GT2 polea ? cuántos dientes de 8mm GT2 polea ? 2 ) ¿Cuál es el material para todo el panel ? Acrílico ? 3 ) ¿cuál es el material de impresion Base con MK2 refuerzo.dwg ?? 4 ) El CAD archivos son 2D, no 3D , no se puede mostrar la profundidad de las placas. CNC puede noby tru168 - RepRap Usergroup - Argentina
¿dónde puedo encontrar el archivo de CAD y STL ?by tru168 - RepRap Usergroup - Argentina
Hi, I think Kim should keep the Ormerod, you'll need to print parts for your multirotor. I'm Multiwii user too, and Warthox mentioned in that link is well known for his flying skill .I like DJI too. Naza FC are good in its stability and safe to fly with GPS . it depends what type of flying style you need.by tru168 - Ormerod
Hi Mantus, For PLA , it seems OK, to exposed it in open air for around a week, if I'm not using it, I'll keep it in dry box.by tru168 - Ormerod
Erik From the "bubble" picture, I think your ABS suffered from moisture problem. you can try to cut a few short length of your filaments and inspect its cut surface, if you can see holes in it, thats means you have water in your filament. I attach an example here, you can see water in the holes.by tru168 - Ormerod
Hi, vacuum storage bags/ ziploc bags are good idea to keep filament dry, especially ABS, which will degrade very fast in humid environment. I'm in Asia country and very humid throughout the year. I keep my filaments in an electric camera dry box, which I bought around USD20 in local flea market. humidity meter shows 40% , should be good for filament I think.. Ewby tru168 - Ormerod
Hi, Thanks for info, it works ! Regards, Ewby tru168 - Delta Machines
Hi, Thanks for info. I googled around and can't find any resize calculator excel file . do you have any link for that please?by tru168 - Delta Machines
Hi, I'm going to build Kossel (2020 alu version) I want 220mm diameter of print area. Anyone know how to upsize it please? tru168by tru168 - Delta Machines
Hi Aagaard , I noticed the same issue as yours too. few months ago, I spent a week to search and ask around in others forum but without any solution. I contacted support, but sadly, their reply : Pronterface not really design for Mac, can't do anything with it. I forced to use web interface and also Repetier-host.by tru168 - Ormerod
Yes its normal. My record so far 6 hours ! ( I'm using latest 27" Imac. )by tru168 - Ormerod
Hi, Same problem here too, I can't hand over the printed parts to my customer because of this problem. I have nearly 1kg of wasted prints in my bin. ( thinking of building a filament extruder to extrude my own filaments one day, to save material cost ) I still can't find the main reason yet. I'm going to tighten up everything and see how it goes.by tru168 - Ormerod
Hi, Like Kim said, perfect first layer depends on precise Z0. If you're printing on plain glass, you need to clean the glass surface really well. I'm printing on plain glass too. I clean/degrease the surface with denatured alcohol, ( Acetone works well but quite pricy in our country), and wipe with diluted vinegar . Normally printed object will pop apart from the glass by itself when glass teby tru168 - Ormerod
Hi, I'm quite interested to try Cura , I'm using Mac. after hours of search, I don't know how to put the ini and py plugin into my cura! anyone who familiar with Mac please help !by tru168 - Ormerod
Hi all, I have problem printing small objects. when I print something small objects with 0.12mm layer height, the object looks melted on its corner, I reduced temperature and i doesn't help much. Using Kim's Big Blue 360 improved quite a lot but still not up to my expectation. I downloaded the maker faire robot (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:40212) to try out . so far printed 6 of them, nby tru168 - Ormerod
Hi all, Yeah, Most of us here are engineers background I believe. I did wrote a review in my broken english months ago, with a lot of pictures too. I decided not to publish them because when I list out pros and cons, I have a few pros and a page full of cons. I enjoy Ormerod now, after a lot of tweaks and mod. I almost give up at the beginning, and not to mentioned that RS actually cancelleby tru168 - Ormerod
Yes, It happened sometimes. stop printing without any reason. Kim, what's your layer height please? Ewby tru168 - Ormerod
Hi, I'm printing a robot for someone's birthday gift. ( ) Since Ormerod came witrh 0.5mm nozzle, I sliced with slic3r in 0.14mm layer heigh for the black color hand, and 0.2mm layer height for white color objects, ( I can't get 0.1mm layer height with good result yet, because of low quality PLA??). SD card just for size reference. I'm using cheapest unbranded China PLA, with temperature aby tru168 - Ormerod
Hi Kim , Yas, I should use wipe after retract function. will try it now. I'm saw the big blue and I think it should be a good upgrade. I'm still learning to draw 3D objects now, and not ready yet for any modification but I'm thinking of adding a bearing hook to hold the whole assembly ( big blue )on the back of acrylic rib for more stable movement and also more strength for heavier load. Iby tru168 - Ormerod
Hi, Thanks for info, I'll try again with my new filament, should received in couple of days. as for my Ormerod , its in very good condition now, I always check with any tiny bit of free play, keep tighten screws, ( I'm using Loctite to keep my screws and nuts always intact now) etc. Ewby tru168 - Ormerod
Hi all, I attended a 3D printing expo last week. I'm really amazed with print results of their display printed objects. compare to mine, I have blotches on surface, especially starting point on every layers, slight uneven on sharp corner etc. I was happy with the results from my Ormerod before I attended the expo. ( and I can see from photos in this forum ,most of objects printed by you guys lby tru168 - Ormerod
Hi DC42, No, I didn't patch the pronterface, I'm not using the special pronterface from Ormerod page, because it won't work on my osx 10.8.5 I'll try to patch and see, and get back here soon . Thank you !by tru168 - Ormerod
My record so far, 4 hours plus for slicing a single stl file ! Already informed and didn't get any useful info from slic3r's author so far. I like it though.by tru168 - Ormerod