QuoteMarc van Beelen @Arnaud31, I don't understand either why your perimiter width is set at 0.85. It will be a combination of various parameters. In my situation it took over the value as defined of in case of default the diameter of the nozzle. I found why we have different default width. I just sliced coat hook with old and new version of slic3r (I run both because I find latest version of slby arnaud31 - Ormerod
Quoterayhicks QuoteArnaud31 I have not tried printing faster than 100mm/s but can't why I could not approach the top speed of 150mm/s for draft printing. On the other hand I never managed to print anything half decent with Ormerod above 40-45mm/s (for small parts) or above 30-35mm/s (for large parts). My longest print to date is 39hrs, I cannot output enough parts, simple! The alternative is a fby arnaud31 - Ormerod
QuoteFlyskyhy I looked into the Slic3r code to see what it actually does. If I understand it correctly, then it takes the width directly from the settings, specifically from the Print Settings->Advanced->Extrusion Width->Perimeter parameter. The line of plastic is deposited half that width from the edge. From the width, the extrusion speed is calculated, according to the following: - ifby arnaud31 - Ormerod
QuoteMarc van Beelen OK, I understand what you mean since you asume that Slicr adjusts the feed rate to create a bigger extruder hole. In my test I mention it and I simply don't know what Slicr does with the feedrate when wider extrudor is defined. What I do know that defining a wider extruder gives better results for the smaller holes Also I know that with standard extruder width of 0.5, layerby arnaud31 - Ormerod
Hi dc42, remember the title of this thread! I think you misread my post, I have no problem with Ormerod, in fact I would argue that I have been one of the lucky few to be least affected by teething problems. I have no backwash problem, no bed levelling problem, am able to tension my belt without modifications and I print on Kapton as intended. I don't use ethernet and don't use the web interfaceby arnaud31 - Ormerod
QuoteMarc van Beelen Hi Arnoud, thanks for your reply. Could you explain how Slicr would produce an extrudor width of 0.85 at a layer height of 0.25mm? I checked the G-files and saw that the extruder (set at 0.5mm) during circles was positioned exactly 0.25mm away from the perimeters. Other question, with custom setting 160% for perimiters I would expect a higher flow of plastic in stead of lesby arnaud31 - Ormerod
Quoterm2014 Well….. I am sure there are lots of happy campers, but on behalf of those who have had badly printed parts, bad instructions over the last 2 months, bad mother boards, which have had to be replaced, z probe problems, and a host of other niggles which have soured this product I would have to say that for the money in this day and age one should expect a product fit for purpose withoutby arnaud31 - Ormerod
Quotedmould QuoteFlyskyhy You say that changing the extrusion width for perimeters to 0.62 (from, I assume, 0.5) improved the situation, that is, it actually made the inner diameter bigger? I don't really understand how that works, I would expect that enlarging the extrusion width would make the inner diameters smaller. Not necessarily, because Slic3r will compensate for the increased width by laby arnaud31 - Ormerod
Quoteormerod168 Just what I wood (he) need to make my EUR Pallet prints look more natural, btw, pallets is great for bridge-building tests EUR Pallets in scale 1:10, 1:20, 1:40, 1:80 (and a Chep Pallet in between) Erik very nice! would you be able to show the underside of the prints, where the bridge was laid? I am curious to see how it looks.by arnaud31 - Ormerod
alternatively, strip the earth and live strands from a main ring cable and be done with it. It is solid copper and non flexible. That way you get a nice fat wire that bends into a shape and stays that way for ever.by arnaud31 - Ormerod
QuoteCash Quoterayhicks M203 sets the maximum speed (by default this is capped at 50mm/s or 3000 mm/minute in the firmware - I increased this limit in the version of firmware I uploaded: M203 X6000 Y6000 Z500 E3000 ; will allow 100mm/s sliced gcodes to work... if they have time/distance to get up to speed Ray I have added this line to my settings inside Cura (start g-code) and found out, that tby arnaud31 - Ormerod
My experience is that all my PLA filament supplies shrink. I have found that inner diameter shrink more than outer diameters. I compensate in the CAD files but agrees it is not ideal. I have had exceptional results fitting large splined shafts together (see post "In defence of Ormerod") with very tight fits but the actual dimensions were never as expected and the reason for the perfect fit was doby arnaud31 - Ormerod
Quotealanbattersby Thanks for all the info, I added a 5mm brim to the part and that was sufficient to hold it down. Alan Don't forget to check everything though, as curing symptoms don't necessarily fix problems. Needing brim for such large parts is no long term solution...by arnaud31 - Ormerod
Hi Alan, I can count warped parts on one hand, exclusively with black and white filaments. No other colour has ever failed. My print room is cold and draughty. I print on kapton cleaned each time with acetone. I have no time to mess with cement, PVA or else. I have not modified my fan for backwash as I have no need to do so. You should watch the first layer print and make sure that the nozzleby arnaud31 - Ormerod
Ian might be kind enough to post a pic of the way they hold the reels at RepRap? It is very simple and neet. Not sure it is a great idea to hang 1-2kg of PLA (unless you still get 300grs from RS) at the top of the Z-axis! how long before the axis are no longer square...by arnaud31 - Ormerod
What I did from the word go was to take a piece of main's rigid electric cable (2.5mm2 or 1.5mm2 can't remember), stripped the grey insulation to get the earth and live wires out and used them to connect both boards. It is solid core, no strands, and the wires are not flexible. No need to twist, less risk of it not being tight and because it is non flexible it doesn't sag and pull out of the termby arnaud31 - Ormerod
Quotetru168 Hi, I don't have good eyesight too. I placed a piece of paper under the nozzle, when I drag the paper and nozzle is touching the paper slightly, I can feel vibration from fan which transmitted to paper. Too low and your first layer will be too thin and uneven. too high and your first layer will not stick to the bed. mine came out just fine when I can drag the paper easily with a liby arnaud31 - Ormerod
I have printed very large parts (180mm diameter, no room to print a skirt around the part) up to 100mm tall. I have also printed taller parts (up to 200mm) with smaller footprints (approx. 100mm diameter). In all cases I have never had any issues with layers. There is sometime a few blobs in places (depending on the filament quality I use) but you barely notice. check this post for some mediumby arnaud31 - Ormerod
And then from someone who knows about as much: Slic3r settings have to be twicked between filament suppliers (different diameters, different temperature, different texture...) and sometime between different colours of the same supplier. There is no one size fits all it seems, you would be better off understanding (testing lots of coathooks with different settings) how the extrusion works and leaby arnaud31 - Ormerod
QuoteOrmerod276 I printed out the fan duct and it ended up with the ducts filled in even though the SW model shows open slots, the stl file bought in to Slic3 showed slots in the 3d view and of course the part supplied in the original kit had open slots. I looked at the gcode and it shows that the slots are filled in so I am guessing it is something I have set in Slic3? Any thoughts please? Lookby arnaud31 - Ormerod
Quotetracyb Quotearnaud31 Quotetracyb Can I make another suggestion to this as well. I always home my X and Y when I start up the machine while the bed starts to heat up. But because of my computer/machine setup I sometimes get confused as to positive or negative X and Y movements. (This is because I am sitting behind the machine). This means that sometimes I tell the machine to move off the endby arnaud31 - Ormerod
Quotetracyb Can I make another suggestion to this as well. I always home my X and Y when I start up the machine while the bed starts to heat up. But because of my computer/machine setup I sometimes get confused as to positive or negative X and Y movements. (This is because I am sitting behind the machine). This means that sometimes I tell the machine to move off the end of the table - making it tby arnaud31 - Ormerod
Quoterayhicks I'd like to be able to use a microswitch on the X axis for homing, rather than using the IR sensor - would this require firmware changes, or is there a g-code that would allow this behaviour? Similarly, for Z I'd like a switch that would stop the axis dropping if I stupidly hit the wrong button and tell it to move -100 or -10 when I meant it to go up this would be more of an emergby arnaud31 - Ormerod
I have found the cause of the wobble, at least on my printer. It is simply that the nut does not fit square on the threaded stud. Remove the screw nut assembly and If you rotate it between you fingers you will see the nut is not square with the screw. I tried with a longer nut and it wasn't square either. The problem is the quality of the nut and/or the quality of the screw. I suspect top qualityby arnaud31 - Ormerod
Quotedmould "Protomold" (http://www.protolabs.co.uk/) for low to medium volumes. Dave (#106) Very interesting link for another project I am working on. Would be interesting to find the life of the moulds as when I last looked into this, injection moulding moulds where anywhere from £50k to £150k a piece. Thanks Dave.by arnaud31 - Ormerod
Quotepocketmoon I think there's two things RepRapPro could easily do to improve the end-user experience. 1) Source better components, simple things like fans. My orginal RepRap Mono Hot End fan would stop turning mid print (resulting in jamming) and the replacement fan wouldn't run at all. 2) Ship a printer capable of printing ABS without modification. The kit PLA parts that get hot and warp wheby arnaud31 - Ormerod
Quotetru168 HI all, What is your maximum print speed can go ? I print Z gear with 45mm/s , 65mm/s infill and I can hear knocking sound when it change at certain corner. My Y belt is tight , and glue + cable tie . X axis also re- tensioned before I print the gear. When I print a large part I increase the speed (50mm/s) and when I print a small part I reduce speed (25mm/s). I have found thatby arnaud31 - Ormerod
Quotedc42 Quotearnaud31 Generally I find that parts with such large foot print are very difficult to remove from the bed after a print. That's one of the advantages of printing PLA direct on glass. The print adheres well while printing - provided you have the bed level and the nozzle height just right to get a good first layer - but when you cool the bed to room temperature, the print almost falby arnaud31 - Ormerod
QuoteSquags A point well made - the Ormerod is already a very useful tool. Just one question - Did you have any problems with warping on such designs? I made what can best be descibed as a 160mm diameter x 10mm thick cog and it warped about 2-3mm around about 1/4 of the edge. That was with a rudimentary fan duct (which appeared to make negligible difference), but in a fairly cool room (15-17C - nby arnaud31 - Ormerod