Hi Jason, I noticed your flex3drive.com website has been in "Fixer Uppa Mode" since last month. Are you still selling the flex3drive parts?by nophead - General
Another issue is because the printed part is flexible you can't print tall thin things as they start to bend away from the nozzle.by nophead - Mendel90
They all have 2.85mm hot ends and Wade's extruders, which have a longer filament path, and I haven't bought any 2.85mm TPU, although it does exist. It might work with perhaps just the addition of a PTFE liner in the lower filament path.I think stiffness is the fourth power of diameter, so that probably compensates for the longer filament path. I think for the best filament control a differentby nophead - Mendel90
I print TPU on my Huxley90 that has a direct drive extruder feeding a 1.75mm J-head hot end, see . The path between the hobbed drive and the hot end is lined with a PTFE tube for printing TPU. I think that was the only mod I made. I print on glass heated to 95C for the first layer and off on subsequent layers. The hot end temperature I use is 230C and I print slowly at 20mm/s. My retraction disby nophead - Mendel90
The Mendel90 design has neoprene sleeving in the Z couplers to allow the lead screws to move angularly without putting stress on the Z rods. I see you have metal couplings which are probably stiffer.by nophead - Mendel90
Thanks. I haven't seen any z-wobble on my machines. Is there play in your linear bearings? Do your tall parts get a 0.4mm bow in them?by nophead - Mendel90
Amazing. I must try out Clipper some time.by nophead - Mendel90
All the Prusa designs are open source so the parts STLs, etc should be online, probably on Github.by nophead - Discussioni generali - NO PROBLEMI DELLA STAMPANTE
It is worth checking there isn't a short between the heater and the thermistor as that will destroy most boards. We live in Tenerife in the winter, so +23C ATM. -1C in the UK.by nophead - Mendel90
Odd. Do they have different pullup resistors fitted? They should both be 4K7. A very low value could indicate the thermistor has been shorted to the heater as that blows up the input pin of the MCU.by nophead - Mendel90
Does it display the correct room temperature when cold? If not what does it display? Since the E3D has more thermal mass than a J-Head perhaps the thermal runaway protection is a false alarm due it not heating as fast as expected. I don't use it most of my machines because it is a PIA. I prefer to live dangerously.by nophead - Mendel90
Yes I wouldn't buy a Melzi today but it is probably something else wrong.by nophead - Mendel90
I think to get rid of the EEPROM error you just need to initialise it with M502 followed by M500.by nophead - Mendel90
I think I followed a YouTube video of one of the famous 3D printer vloggers. Perhaps Thomas Sanladerer or Teaching Tech. IIRC it was just a matter of downloading VSC, installing some plugins and then using the Marlin autobuild.by nophead - Mendel90
Very unlikely you would need to reprogram the board as the firmware stored in flash doesn't get forgotten in my experience. The recent version of Marlin I put on Github comes with support for Melzi with 1284p. I compiled it with Visual Studio Code using the Auto Build Marlin extension as that is the recommended way of doing it nowadays but it says it can still be compiled with Arduino. I didn'tby nophead - Mendel90
Yes I saw that but haven't tried it. Note on my Github I also configured the bugfix branch for Mendel90 and it can be selected as Mendel90_bugfix. It also supports long file names on the SD card but Octoprint doesn't support that properly yet. I raised a couple of issues on the OctoPrint github. Odd that the "bugfix" branch isn't just the release with bugs fixed. It has new features and some cby nophead - Mendel90
Yes PETG is very sticky. I think people print it on glue or similar 3D printing bed adhesion sprays, not to get it to stick, but to get it to release, when cold. I have never succeeded with it because it sticks to the nozzle so won't bridge because it rips up adjacent bridge lines it has just made.by nophead - Mendel90
When using an E3D hot end I did need to increase the PID functional range to 20 when using it to print polycarbonate at 275C. I also changed THERMAL_PROTECTION_HYSTERESIS to 10. Marlin temperature control is a nightmare of complexity. On my old machines with my own firmware I simply used bang-bang and it works just as well, no tuning. It doesn't work on Marlin because it doesn't sample fast enouby nophead - Mendel90
Have you got PID enabled for the BED? It is better than bang-bang because the fluctuations from bang-bang bang can cause the bed to flex. I don't see how minor voltage fluctuations can cause big changes in hot end temperature. Are you using the original Melzi we supplied or a different one? Perhaps voltage drops in the ground traces of the PCB are causing thermistor reading variations.by nophead - Mendel90
I don't think it is a power issue. A small change in voltage would be easily corrected by the control. Perhaps the PID tuning is off as it looks almost like a sinusoidal oscillation.by nophead - Mendel90
It has been on Thingiverse since 2016!by nophead - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
Nightmare. I don't think I know anybody that has Moderna and been well after it. Myself I have had two Astra Zenica and a Pfizer booster and haven't' had an problems with my 3D printers, or any other side effects apart from sore arm and very mild headache.by nophead - General
You can fit an E3D V6 but you lose some Z height as it is significantly longer and the fan duct won't fit. There are STLs on github for an alternative Wades block that loses less height and a shallower fan duct and a different fan bracket to clear the hot end fan. You also have to provide permanent 12V to the hot end fan by connecting the positive to the 12V heater connection and negative to tby nophead - Mendel90
Z_MAX_POS should be where your limit switch is, i.e. 188.5mm and the homing directions should be 1 and the switch defined to be a max limit. This is what my config looks like for a recent version of Marlin #define X_HOME_DIR 1 #define Y_HOME_DIR 1 #define Z_HOME_DIR 1 // @section machine // The size of the print bed #define X_BED_SIZE 200 #define Y_BED_SIZE 200 // Travel limits (mm) after hby nophead - Mendel90
I am struggling to see much difference on the top but the bottom looks like the original was printed with the first layer a little bit further from the bed so getting slightly thinner extrusion. The infill on the top layer is the opposite direction, so these are not from the same g-code and possibly not the same slicer. The acceleration would affect corner sharpness. I set that in firmware bit Iby nophead - Mendel90
Not sure what you mean by 20 tooth being lower resolution. 20 times 2 is 40mm, the same as 16 times 2.5 is 40mm. You shouldn't need to change any settings. Your left hand cube has three outlines but the right only has two. If the inner outlines are done first I could imagine it would lead to more rounded corners. Other things that can affect it are the nozzle diameter, the plastic's viscosity, aby nophead - Mendel90
So this object was printed with the long sides parallel to the Y axis and the end at the front of the bed has waves? I would suspect one of the linear bearings has failed. Perhaps if you move it by hand with the power off you can feel it.by nophead - Mendel90
Sorry I didn't see your post about ripples when you posted it. I doubt changing the controller will make any difference.by nophead - Mendel90
Good to here it's working again. It is a lot easier when you have another printer to repair the first one!by nophead - Mendel90
If it is PLA you are printing you could try a higher temperature for both the filament and the bed for just the first layer.by nophead - Mendel90