Hello, I haven't done any printing in a while as I've had other distractions, but thought you might be interested in this. I have a number of unused, sealed filament reels waiting on the shelf here to be used. I noticed the other day that on one of the reels the filament is shattered in at least ten or twelve places. Now the reels haven't been in sun light, or moved around, and the temperature inby KimBrown - Ormerod
Jzzzzzzzzzzzzzz! seems like ages since I've been here.... Been busy with other stuff, and working.... (The curse of the 3D printer user)..... If you get a clogged nozzle, I've found the easiest way to clear it it Burn it out.... When Dust collects on the Filament, or dust from wear and tare of the PTFE tubing, it can work it's way down in to the nozzle, and no matter how high you take the nozzlby KimBrown - Ormerod
Hi Tig.... You don't say what sort of Platform (Bed) your printing on.... When I use the Ormerod I normally print directly on to Glass without a coating (using PLA).... But to do it I have to ensure the Glass is freshly scrubbed clean and dried with fresh clean Kitchen Roll. If I have problems with getting a print to initially stick I clean the Glass with Vinegar, while the bed is heating up. Trby KimBrown - Ormerod
Here's a simple way to level your printing platform. I actually did it for a totally different printer, but it'll work with any printer. This I hope will be handy for both experianced and new users... Enjoy... Kim.. Here..by KimBrown - Ormerod
Jr that makes sense that the bumps disappeared. You will now have a seam somewhere on the print in that case. Eriks config file might help reduce it, but also look at your retraction restart extra length. Try a negative number. While the volume of plastic remains the same after the nozzle refills, the length of the plastic changes (it got stretched when you retracted..... So when it feeds in it wby KimBrown - Ormerod
Hi, I suspect your Over Extruding slightly. Maybe the filament you are using is slightly thicker this time. In which case decrease the Extrusion Multiplier. I normally run with a value of 0.84 but adjust this as and when I feel it's needed. We should measure our filament, set the multiplier, and re-slice every time we change it, but I for one don't... Hence my Ball Park figure of 0.84. You wouldby KimBrown - Ormerod
Hmmmm, just a thought here. Would the 0.9 Degree stepper motors not be more expensive and over Kill for a 3D printer, unless you are planning on using larger pulleys for the Belts that is? I'm just wondering if your going to be wanting to do more accurate movements, your probably be needing a much smaller diameter nozzle (0.2 / 0.3mm or the like), as the movement will be more accurate than the amby KimBrown - Ormerod
Hi Jon, are you using the same Gcode file that you were using for the 0.5mm nozzle? If so, then that's your problem. You have to set the Nozzle size in the Slicer program that you normally use, and also the Layer Height, then make a new Gcode file. I'd use the Wizard in Slic3r as it will adjust the Layer height for you dependent on your Nozzle Diameter. If you've already done that and the layersby KimBrown - Ormerod
Many thanks DC / Zombie, I've added the tpost.g files to my sys folder now, didn't know about them before. Hoping to get some free time on Wednesday to get the printer going again so having the files in place is a bonus. Many thanks. Kimby KimBrown - Ormerod
I use the tilt method with my microswitch, and it never lets me down. Like Eric I run a level bed, and have bolted my Z to Y axis using a 6mm Gutter bolt (they have a shallow domed head with a 6mm square under it that fits very nicely in the slot of the Ally profile, and the dome gives about 1mm clearance on the Y bearing covers. When I was printing in one colour I used to wash the glass, dry theby KimBrown - Ormerod
DC, when the tools change, is there a 'Wait till Temp xxx' put in by Slic3r? Or is it handled by the Firmware when it sees a new temp setting for it? I'm nearly at the stage of running the two nozzles now, but haven't solved my problem here yet. Hopefully over the weekend I might be able to solve it. But I haven't notice the printer waiting when it changes tools to heat up the new tool.by KimBrown - Ormerod
Hi Ray, I've been incredibly busy here onboard ship, so had to pack the Printer away until I can get home on Friday. I've been thinking about this problem, and the more I think about it the more I'm convinced that it's power related either on the 12V side or the 5V or both. My Ormerod is one of the earlier ones just outside the first 500 (special edition ones), so it's an earlier Duet. When I getby KimBrown - Ormerod
As you can see the White (Left Nozzle) is now too hot (190') but then also the flow is to little... The Black (right nozzle) is ok, but there is a heavy seam where the layer starts and stops. This I can tune out (or decrease) later by increasing the retraction, and the feed acceleration.by KimBrown - Ormerod
Hi Jon, one of the first things I tried was swapping over the filament, as one Nozzle was working perfectly, and the other was blocking all the time. Only think I noticed after that was that the Heating Up curve wasn't a smooth slope like the good Nozzle, so that's what pointed me towards the wiring and Thermistor. I'll try to post a picture of the last print I did tomorrow. It's packed away at tby KimBrown - Ormerod
Hi Appjaws, I tried 235' but no good. It'll be Friday before I can unpack it and try anything else...by KimBrown - Ormerod
Hi Sven / David, I swapped over the feeder as well. I suspect that the power supply I'm using just can't supply enough Amps, or that the connection box that the ATX power supply is connected to can't handle the current. When I first tried it, and it blocked just after getting the plastic through the nozzle I tried removing the PTFE tube and feeding it by hand. That didn't work. So had to clean tby KimBrown - Ormerod
Hi Sven, I have a crazy situation with my Dual Extruder HotEnd. Always the Left hand nozzle blocks, for no good reason. I suspect that the power supply I'm using is not powerful enough, but I am away working on a ship, and my bigger power supply is at home. I wanted to get the printer working, but sadly, it won't be for about a week now. I have been looking at a very nice Printer at Hobbyking, wby KimBrown - Ormerod
Btw... I had the same connection problem as you the last few days. I was pulling my hair out with this Extruder problem, so stopping and starting the machine. Sometimes the connection was in a few seconds, other times, anything up to about 12 seconds. I even had it not connect at all, and I had to reboot everything. But I'm wondering if McAfee might be to blame. A DTI is a mechanical measuring dby KimBrown - Ormerod
Hi, I've just installed the Dual QuickSet extruder nozzles and having some really stupid problems with one of the extrudes. The right hand Extruder runs fine on the second channel of the expansion board, but the left hand one starts fine then blocks up. I've changed every bit, including nozzles, thermistor, PTFE tube, feeder, heater, even changed the channel it operates on. Why it should block soby KimBrown - Ormerod
Treito, try burning the PLA out on a gas cooker hob. Once it's stopped poping and crackling, the Burnt PLA/PTFE should tap out. I have a New 0.3mm QuickSet nozzle to do when I get home...by KimBrown - Ormerod
NOW I HAVE EGG ON MY FACE!!!!! Ok here is what the problem was:- In the Original build when it got to the fitting the Sensor part we had to place a Blue Flying lead on to the Expansion Pin. When I did this, the lead was tight so I'd bent the pin slightly to allow the lead to fit. In my haste to fit the Expansion Board I'd forgotten to straighten the Pin, and so it wasn't connected. So now it iby KimBrown - Ormerod
Hi Ian, good to hear from you again. Yes thanks for pointing out those bits. David (DC) already had mentioned them so I edited the config file and that sorted one of the problems. But One port just won't look at the thermistor, and is stuck at 160'. If I move the connections over to the other port, then that port sees it fine. So it looks like a fault (dry joint, what ever). I'll try to take theby KimBrown - Ormerod
Many thanks David. That's sorted out the stray 60' false reading on the Heater/Thermistor 3 port. But alas the Thermister 2 port isn't playing at all, so I think that one is Duff as its stuck at 160'. I'll ask RepRap about it I guess. See if they have a solution for it. I'm guessing that port is broken...by KimBrown - Ormerod
Hi David, your up early.... Ok I'm using the thermistors that RepRap supplied, which I think are just one type. What entry would you suggest I put in please.. As you can see I didn't put in any M305 commands in the config.g file M111 S0; Debug off M550 POrmerod; Set the machine's name M551 Preprap; Set the password M540 P0xBE:0xEF:0xDE:0xAD:0xFE:0xED ; Set the MAC address ;M552 P0.0.0.0 ; Un-comby KimBrown - Ormerod
Hi I think I recall seeing some where that it is possible to set an Offset on the Thermistor reading. Since installing the RepRap Expansion Board here, the Web Interface has been showing T0 as working correctly. T1 was a floating reading of around 162', and T2 as a floating Reading of around +/-6'. (with no thermistors on T1/T2). Now I have T1 connected up the temp reading is stuck at 162' or thby KimBrown - Ormerod
Hmmmm I tried uploading a Macro, like you suggested, I had the file name as ColdByPass.g with the M302 P1 command in. However it gave me an Ajax error.... And terminated the connection. An AJAX error was reported, so the current session has been terminated. Please check if your printer is still on and try to connect again. Error reason: could not start file upload No problem, as I can send tby KimBrown - Ormerod
If you are using your Laptop to control the Ormerod, and the network cable from the Ormerod is connected to your laptop, then if you have set it up correctly it is on the WiFi network. (Provided you Bridge the Ethernet and WiFi networks). Therefore, you could even connect to it via your WiFi enabled phone in a web browser.... Provided your Laptop is powered up that is. The IP address you gave youby KimBrown - Ormerod
You do know if you run a Level Bed that you don't need to run with Calibration. It make life a whole lot simpler.... As for your problem. Do you use WiFi to connect your PC to the network. If so then it could be the spectrum is crowded there, and your Ormerod is taking longer to register.by KimBrown - Ormerod
Hi, sometime ago I designed a simple Spool Holder for 1kg (and the like) filament Spools that clipped on top of the ATX power supply. With slowly progressing to twin extruders (hopefully going online tomorrow when the bits arrive) I suddenly realized that I only had a single Spool Holder. So.... here's the upgrade... It accepts two 1kg Spools, which are totally independent (so one won't drag theby KimBrown - Ormerod
Now a great thing has just got even better.... Thank you....by KimBrown - Ormerod