I have already seen this solution in the forum, with mixed results. This implementation is minimal and elegant. I tried a similar approach but it failed because the nozzle needs to be free to slide a little bit on the printing surface in order to let the extruder assembly rotate and click the switch. In my case it kept getting stuck in kapton tape, making the measurement unreliable. From what I cby aesuli - Ormerod
Hi muggi, the following is my homeall.g file, as you can see it is just the concatenation of the homing instructions for the X Y and Z axes. G91 G1 Z5 F200 G90 G1 X-240 F2000 S1 G92 X0 G1 X3 F200 G1 X-30 S1 G92 X0 G1 X55 F2000 G92 Y0 G1 Y220 F2000 S1 G92 Y200 ; IR probe ; G1 Y0 ; G30 ; G1 Z0 F200 ; microswitch G1 X55 Y35 M558 P0 G92 Z0 G1 Z-100 F200 S1 G92 Z0 G1 Z2 G1 Z-5 F40 S1 G92 Z0 G1 Z0 Mby aesuli - Ormerod
The bed compensation algorithm translates all the movements in order to (1) make each layer parallel to the bed plane, and (2) preserve the orthogonality of the three axes in the printed object. As you can see in this video , the column is built tilted, following the tilt of the plane and thus producing a perfect print identical to one you get on a level bed.by aesuli - Ormerod
How "old" is your spool of filament? I have experienced the same problem toward the end of a 1KG spool, and it was likely due to the PLA having absorbed humidity along time. Check if you can hear small popping sounds from the nozzle due to the evaporating humidity. With a new spool the problem was gone.by aesuli - Ormerod
@Chris Great mod! I see you have moved the extruder motor out of the X rib and attached it to the Z profile. I was thinking to do a similar mod but I haven't figured yet how and where to attach it to the profile. What's your solution? Andrea.by aesuli - Ormerod
An hypothesis that I made a couple of weeks ago but I haven't tested yet (I preferred the quick temporary solution of the microswitch) is that dark patch as the reflector for the IR probe would work better than a light colored one. The rationale behind this idea is that a white/mirror/light patch reflects much more IR (here I'm simplifying by assuming that IR reflection is similar to the visibleby aesuli - Ormerod
Hi mancinism, I have grabbed the picture from the ormerod assembly instructions from and I have added the wiring for the z endstop. I hope this answers your question. Ciao, Andrea.by aesuli - Ormerod
I soldered the tips like Kim. I then periodically check that they do not loosen.by aesuli - Ormerod
Quoterickity Andy Like the idea, the IR probe inconsistency is driving me nutty, 1 question, what are the electrical connections? regards Rickity It is a normally closed switch that connects to the duet board on the three free pins on the right of the z-motor connector, exactly in the same way of the Y-axis switch.by aesuli - Ormerod
I love the idea of the IR probe, but I cannot get it to work consistently. So I have moved temporarily to a micro switch solution for Z homing. I have "extracted" a micro switch from a dead printer and found its specification online . I have designed an adjustable enclosure for the switch that clips on the z lower mount (in turned out to be not very adjustable because the bolts hit the z lower moby aesuli - Ormerod
I would like to use the Z micro switch to get rid of the IR probe for Z homing (still using the IR probe for X homing). Where do you have plugged the z micro switch on the duet and how do you have changed the config file to make it work? Can you share the stl of your yellow support of the micro switch? Congrats, great work! Quote3djim Hi. I can successfully print at 0.12 layer heights consistby aesuli - Ormerod
I'm using Cash's profile and plugin and I'm getting nice PLA prints from Cura. I have combined it with temperatures and extrusion rate suggested by dc42. Before printing I always do a visual check of the produced g-code with GCodeSimulator. Thanks to both Cash and dc42 for sharing their knowledge and experience.by aesuli - Ormerod
Thank you very much Frank, I will test it in the next days and report my results. Andrea.by aesuli - Ormerod
Awesome! What software do you have used for slicing? Can you please share the various parameters (temps/speeds/retract/layers/...)?by aesuli - Ormerod
Have you also changed the overall print speed? The slic3r manual mentions that "An additional benefit is that a faster travel movement, between extrusions, can reduce the effects of oozing."by aesuli - Ormerod
Thank you! I have used default values until now. I will test the retract value you mention. Which temperatures do you suggest?by aesuli - Ormerod
Hi all, third evening printing, I printed the Nautilus gears. They came out almost good but with a relevant amount of dribbles (I hope this is the proper English word for what you see in the picture, i.e., tiny filaments produced by the extruder when it moves from one point to another). A bit of sanding cleaned it and made it nice. I have generated the g-code for the printer using the last veby aesuli - Ormerod
Thank you all! Good, I will wait for a firmware update for this. I was worried about this issue being caused by an hardware problem. I am happy it is not the case. Where are the know issues reported? I searched before posting, but I cannot find any info about it. So my main remaining issue is the bed leveling. Tomorrow I'll dedicate the morning to leveling the bed by hand, because with the otheby aesuli - Ormerod
Hi all, I have finished building my Ormerod yesterday and I have already printed some pieces (found no hard problems apart the bed leveling which is a tedious process, if done manually, or simply not working, if done automatically). Now I have loaded a good number of gcode files I would like to test and I have found that when I issue the M20 command (or a click the SD->print function on prontby aesuli - Ormerod