For the past month I've been building a D-Bot CoreXY machine, based around a Duet and dc42 ir sensor, as that's what I was familiar with from my Ormerod. When ordering, I tagged a 4.3" PanelDue onto the order, 'just because', though I didn't really think I'd make much use of it. Have to say I was wrong - it's a very convenient way to control the printer when setting up, and for keeping a weatheby epninety - Ormerod
Quoteorictosh Would it be possible to re-design this STL file so that the hole into which the brass nut is 10 mm rather than 8 mm ? Hi Chris I don't have the original design files anymore, but this is a trivial change to make directly in the stl file. e.g. in OpenSCAD... - import the .stl file. - move the part around until the hole in centred on one axis. - draw a 10mm diameter cylinder at thby epninety - Ormerod
QuoteDavek0974 Very rare to see an Ormerod 1 with the original acrylic X-Arm on it - can i suggest an aluminium upgrade maybe Everyone that has fitted one has reported good improvements, see my sig for details below. You need to check the clock Davek! Those pics were posted more than 3 years ago! (And I don't believe I reported a good improvement after fitting one of your arms.)by epninety - Ormerod
That seems to cover it nicely, in fact the whole wiki seems excellent The new Duet Wifi looks good... am I right in thinking that it's wifi only, not wifi + wired ? dumb question, just needed to look at the connection diagram!by epninety - Duet
Had a couple of hours this evening, so did the upgrade. No real issues noted so far, printing a first test now with no problems noted. I had to make a couple of changes as noted in WHATS_NEW, to re-reverse the X axis and correct the thermistor to suit my E3D. If I had one minor item on the wish list, it would be for a single sheet of up to date notes on how to do the upgrade. README takes meby epninety - Duet
All your continued hard work is much appreciated! I probably won't be able to test it until next week, but I will do so the first chance I get, and report any problems.by epninety - Ormerod
I've been running a different Z axis setup almost since I first got the Ormerod. It was the first mod I did. Threadby epninety - Ormerod
Step size isn't ideal, but in reality it's not an issue. All that happens is that layers steps get rounded up or down to an exact number of steps. So once in every so many passes, the exact layer step changes by a tiny fraction. You can see some banding in the sides of the box print in that thread, it may be an effect of the rounding. Equally it may be an effect of the stepper and microsteppingby epninety - Ormerod
Just as background info, I used TR8 x 1.5mm rod for my mod a while back... It might give you some ideas. Daveby epninety - Ormerod
Appreciate your efforts Davek0974 They will clean up into nice looking parts with a bit of attention in the shed, and more importantly, they will do the job - improving the ormerod Daveby epninety - Ormerod
Mine has a 2mm bow over the length of the thin rib. Frankly the cut and finish of the whole thing is pretty poor, to say the least.by epninety - Ormerod
Well 5mm plate isn't thick enough for much of a counterbore, and it really isn't much of an issue - so countersunk is fine. If it does cause any kind of a distortion problem, then simply put it together with cap heads and washers, just long enough for the adhesive to go off - then remove the offending screws before fitting to the Ormerod Plenty of surface area in the mating surface, so no supby epninety - Ormerod
My 2p worth - countersunk to be avoided unless necessary - the self-centreing action just adds another potential inaccuracy problem. Not saying it will cause an issue, but no point designing one in if it's easily avoided. Do the screws limit the available positions for the extruder, or the steel bearing tape? (Not got my machine in front of me).by epninety - Ormerod
QuoteDavek0974What we dont want to do is fit lightening holes as that will compromise rigidity i feel. Sensibly done, lightening holes won't have a huge effect on rigidity IMV. However, I have the trapezoidal leadscrew on Z, so I'm not fussed either way Daveby epninety - Ormerod
Hi Dave Put me down for a set! Daveby epninety - Ormerod
QuoteRadian No disrespect but I personally I think this is just too risky. The levering action as the leg parts company with the chip puts a lifting force on the pad. I used to remove small-outlne packs with 0.05" leads this way but I think I was getting away with it because the wider tracks typically had greater adhesion. As soon as I started doing it on packages with 0.5mm spaced leads I starteby epninety - Ormerod
Guess I'm a bit too far away for me and my Metcals to help you out then Jan I haven't studied the pcb design but there's one other approach that might help you get the device off without damage.... Underneath the device is the thermal pad, which you cant get to directly with a soldering iron. It should have vias through the board to carry heat into the ground plane. If you scrape the solder reby epninety - Ormerod
Whereabouts are you? There might be someone local with the proper kit? Best way IMV is on a proper hotplate, with an air pencil to push the device pads up to the correct temperature. You can do it with just a small hot air gun, preferably with a reducing nozzle. I'd start with a fresh blade in the scalpel, cut each of the legs at the device body. Then remove the legs from the pcb with small soby epninety - Ormerod
The STL file is attached. The O-ring to fit is BS1806-213, 23.39mm x 3.53mmby epninety - Ormerod
FR-4 is a fair match for Aluminium in thermal expansion, so not much to be gained on that score. It won't (or shouldn't) warp or bow unless restrained (e.g. pcb traces can form the equivalent of a bimetallic strip) 3mm SRBP based Tufnol is working fine for me, but I'm not claiming any particular advantage over Alu. Daveby epninety - Ormerod
M92 command sets number of steps per axis, so send M92 Z2133 sets everything back to working correctly. It's not a perfect integer, should be 2133.333recurring, but the error is only 0.03% so lost in the noise. Daveby epninety - Ormerod
IMHO an M3 thread in 3mm Ali will be fine, but a nut is probably better. A properly pressed in steel nutsert would be better still. My bed is 3mm Tufnol and uses springs on all three mounting screws, which are just tapped into the bed. You don't need massive spring rates unless you are going to use a half kilo of PLA on every print. Also if your bed is stable, you won't be adjusting it as oftenby epninety - Ormerod
Another update just to keep the info in one thread... johneato commented the Z nut was fully captive and that might cause problems if the Z axis crashed the bed. At the same time, I was looking for a better way to retain the Z nut while allowing for misalignment. So my next design of Z nut bracket centres the Z nut in an O-ring that happily fits the 45degree bevel on the lead nut. It (the O -riby epninety - Ormerod
This is the first time I've tried using non-genuine Tufnol. It's Attwater SRBP in B4 grade, sourced on a whim from ebay. It's black, has a very nice surface finish... at least until I've abused it with the contents of the toolbox Daveby epninety - Ormerod
Just to follow up on this... I heated and cooled the bed a few times over the last week, and I've made several prints today, and I've not had to adjust the Tufnol bed alignment at all, it's very stable and repeatable. The only adjustment I've had to do since installation is because I just changed the Z nut bracket again. Very happy with that. Maybe useless info with everyone looking at the aliby epninety - Ormerod
I rather assume all the various miss-spellings of Kapton are just the usual Chinese approach to selling something as a brand name without infringing the trademarks of the big boys. Kapton is a DuPont registered trademark for their polyimide film products. I've also got a roll of 200mm wide 'Koptan', sourced from the usual 'auction' site. It is noticeably more stretchy than the 'real thing', whiby epninety - Ormerod
Ormerod sat idle for a day, so should be stable. T min 21.5 mean 22.1 max 22.1 B min 22.1 mean 22.2 max 22.3 Bed temp 21.9 measured by K type thermocouple taped to the glass, using Fluke 189 DMM FIRMWARE_NAME:RepRapFirmware FIRMWARE_VERSION:0.57r-dc42 ELECTRONICSuet DATE:2014-03-02 Daveby epninety - Ormerod
My Tufnol bed stiffener has been fitted for a day now, and initial results are very encouraging. I cut a 3mm Tufnol sheet to fit on top of the MDF bed, mounted on the 3 screws that fit the MDF to the ribs, and with the 3 mounting holes for the heated bed tapped to take sprung screws. There is a single larger hole drilled for the thermistor wiring. Temporarily I don't have the cardboard insulatorby epninety - Ormerod
I haven't thought about it in great detail, but I intended to drill the heated bed support holes (3 or 5) plus the (3?) countersunk holes where the MDF is screwed to the rib and bearings. Tufnol will take a thread really nicely, so drilling and tapping the bed support holes means I can get rid of the nuts and support the heated bed on 3 springs as I currently do.by epninety - Ormerod