Righto, I'll give it a go when I get some downtime.by static65 - Ormerod
A couple of days ago I started having a weird problem with getting the bed up to temperature. Up to about 65 degrees the temperature increases in a normal fashion, but then the web interface reports that it drops by 5-7 degrees suddenly, and fluctuates by +/- 2 degrees, before jumping back up to a higher temperature. As I normally print at 70C this often means it jumps up to around 75 degrees, thby static65 - Ormerod
Cheers for the suggestions, printed that clip Darathy linked and that's removed all the play in the bowden fitting. I ended up with 4.5mm retraction and some coast-at-end which finally got rid of the stringing. Still haven't fitted the 12V LED power supply but it works as-is using the ATX supply, I'll get around to it at some point.by static65 - Ormerod
Don't forget to add a bit extra to account for the bed and the height of the X arm. The Z extrusion is about 570mm on mine to achieve a print height of just over 400mm.by static65 - Ormerod
I built a Z-axis that could make prints up to 800mm (aka the Stupidly Tall-merod. Didn't need a second motor. It was fun to make some crazy tall vases but printing tall stuff is difficult as the top of the Z-axis would wobble about with the momentum of the moving parts so you'd end up going super slow and reducing your axis accelerations. I think the tallest thing I've ever printed on it (apart fby static65 - Ormerod
Thanks all. It's gone surprisingly well so far, sensor board fitted and working perfectly, E3D hot end is producing mostly decent prints. Just need to test it with the 12V power supply pushed up to 14V. Only trouble is the stringing from the hot end, and that is something I had trouble with when I originally tried the E3D end with 24V parts. I'm using Simplify3D and have retraction set to 2.5mm,by static65 - Ormerod
Hello! I have a couple of questions I'm hoping people can help me answer. This weekend I'm planning to change to an E3D hot end and finally mount the hot end sensor I received from dc42 weeks ago, so I want to make sure I get it all right. What connector type does the sensor board use? I'll need some of the 2 pin connectors and pins so I can more easily swap between hot ends if need be. I've goby static65 - Ormerod
Treito, I'm from the UK Regards your earlier post, I do have an original E3D V6 hot end but I couldn't get it to stop stringing everywhere. It's also got a 24V cartridge and fans, and my 24V power supply blew up, so that's on hold until I get another one. 0x0000, thats good to know! In this case I needed to get the print done ASAP so the drill bit approach would still have been quickest.by static65 - Ormerod
Quoteormerod168 Quotestatic65What's the next step? I saw a post on using a heat gun and compressed air to clean a quick-set nozzle, but I don't have any air tools (also it's an Ormerod 1 so not quick-set). I've ordered some 0.5mm drill bits to see if I can clear it from the other side but not sure if that's a good idea. 1) clear the first part with a 3mm drill bit, hand held so you can feel thby static65 - Ormerod
Hi again. Cat woke me up at 6:30 this morning so I went and checked my overnight print and discovered it had come off the bed and formed a giant blob around the nozzle. Spent half an hour or more cleaning that, put the hot end back on the printer and discovered it had developed a significant sag, so fixed that with a spacer and a bigger bearing on the back of the X arm. By 8:30 I was doing a tesby static65 - Ormerod
Thanks dc42. I've had a fun morning of testing. It ended when my 24V power supply exploded! It appears the cooling fan on the PSU died, and it presumably went into a thermal protection mode. I heard the hot end fan stop so went to investigate. As I got to the table the hot end fan started again, which is when I noticed the PSU fan wasn't spinning. A couple of seconds later before I could even unpby static65 - Ormerod
I'm going from a 40W 12V cartridge in the stock end to a 25W 24V cartridge in the E3D end, would the lower wattage account for the lacklustre performance at default PIDs? I'll take a look at securing the bowden clip, but even with 8mm of retraction I was getting strings. With the same PLA in the stock end I needed only 4mm. I tried experimenting with retraction speeds and a higher speed helped buby static65 - Ormerod
Thanks for the responses. I've mounted it to the aluminium bed plate using the same bolts - I simply got an aluminium heat spreader cut by an ebay seller and drilled holes through both it and the heater plate (the edge of the plate has no copper). Seems to work beautifully, though I had to reduce speed a little as the extra weight was giving the bed a lot of momentum and introducing wobbles. I alby static65 - Ormerod
Hello! I'm after a little help with PID tuning on the duet. I've installed a 200x300 heated bed on my Ormerod 1 and the default PID settings seem fine for PLA printing at 55 degrees. I'm looking to print in ABS, so as a test I've commanded it up to 110 degrees. It's taken 15 mins to go from 55 to 75, and I don't have time to leave it running to see if it ever reaches 110. I'm hoping some PID tunby static65 - Ormerod
I PM'd you about a board on the 10th but didn't get a reply, I think you may have overlooked meby static65 - Ormerod
Thanks all. I've uploaded the 1.09m firmware and set the print going going again. Now we play the waiting game. If there's any info I can provide to help track down the firmware issue (assuming that is the case) then I'll be happy to do so.by static65 - Ormerod
Hi all, Been lurking for a while with no issues that I couldn't solve with the aid of some googling (mostly landing me here anyway). Today, however, I'm having some strange issues with the Duet on my O1 randomly resetting mid-print. Twice so far - once about 2 hours into a large print, and once 3 hours into a repeat of that print with about 25 layers to go (argh!). The printer simply stops, theby static65 - Ormerod
Quotetrilby I haven’t ordered the magnetic print bed as couldn’t' remember the print bed dimensions after having a drink so I shall mod the heat spreader to take some magnets to hold it in place. Spoken like a true engineerby static65 - Ormerod
A fine suggestion! It was probably due an oiling anyway as I haven't done it since I built the extended axes. Hasn't solved the issue though! Disappointingly, a couple of the seals broke on the linear bearings within a couple of weeks after building the original kit, one on the X axis and one on the Y. Perhaps I should replace these as if debris has been getting in there no amount of oil will unby static65 - Ormerod
Printed the orthogonal measurement pieces. There was some minor XZ compensation to be had which will benefit tall prints (I have a silly 825mm tall build volume). Unfortunately it hasn't fixed the distortion issuesby static65 - Ormerod
@appjaws1, I did say I haven't got any orthogonal axis compensation. I've checked and rechecked with a set square and it's still as straight as the day I built it, but I will print the axis compensation piece again to be sure.by static65 - Ormerod
Finally got some time to try printing it at 10mm/s. The result is the same but perhaps a bit less obvious. There's still 0.2mm difference between the X and Y dimensions. Would increasing motor currents help? I already bumped them up during the build (X1000 Y1000 Z800 E1000). I'm not experiencing any skipped steps though. What's the current limit? Does the firmware upload process blank the Duet'by static65 - Ormerod
Oh, something I just thought of! Is it possible to change which stepper driver is assigned to which axis? That way I could swap the X and Y cables over and if the problem shifts to the X axis it could indicate a duet fault?by static65 - Ormerod
I haven't actually got any axis compensation, I spent a long time getting the thing damn near perfect when I built it. I need to check it's still lined up though as when I swapped the stepper motors over I had to move the printer about a bit which always makes me paranoid that something will have shifted. In any case, the problem is exactly the same before and after the motor swap so it wasn't thby static65 - Ormerod
Thanks, I think that rules out the STL or slic3r being the problem. I've attached an image of a few of the test pieces I've printed so far. The issue is more pronounced in some pieces than others, but the hole is always noticeably oval and measurement reveals the Y dimension to be short. Additionally, I calculated the steps/mm I SHOULD have had to set to get the y-axis correct: 87x(19.65 / 20)by static65 - Ormerod
Thanks for the suggestion. I've swapped out the X and Y steppers and the issue remains the same. All of the test pieces I've printed are consistently distorted. Could it be the driver? I overlooked the fact my bed is a non-standard size so that gcode would be offset for most people. Apologies! I've resized it for a 200x200 bed and reattached.by static65 - Ormerod
After deleting 50MB of gcode files from the SD the web interface can read it properly again with 0.78d. I guess I just had too much stuff on there for this particular firmware to cope with. I've adjusted my Y steps/mm to make the print 20x20 in both X and Y but the holes are still rugby-ball-shaped, with the longest axis at 45 degrees between X and Y, so something else is at play here, I just caby static65 - Ormerod
Found the 0.98 web interface files so put them in the www folder and flashed 0.78d-dc42 again, still can't read the SD contents or report message log/firmware version etc. I can control the steppers though. What the...? This behaviour is the reason I upgraded to 0.96i-zpl, I had just uploaded a gcode file and when the progress bar reached the end and the file list refreshed everything was gone..by static65 - Ormerod
Upgraded from 0.78d-dc42 to 0.96i-zpl and noticed that my prints were a bit distorted, seemed a bit short in the Y-axis. I noticed when my holes weren't coming out circular. First thought was my Y-belt had slipped, which it had a little, but after tightening, the problem persists. I made a quick 20x20x2 box with a 5mm hole and set it printing. Calipers say X=20.01 and Y=19.65. I checked my stepsby static65 - Ormerod