You need to try and test to obtains the optimum temperature for a specific reel of filament. I have my filament ordered from ebay even the same pla filament from the same vendor or different color can have different properties which require different temperature setting. Good luck!by Chaisaeng - Ormerod
Quoteappjaws1 Reverted to the original ormerod fan which produces a much better air flow compared to the quiet fan I was using. The result is a great improvement on the lower curves, still not correct but much better. Mine happened to be exactly the same result as yours. Looking fir solution for this for a while yet stil not found any setting that can get it better. Hope there is an answer toby Chaisaeng - Ormerod
I found this device quite promising for the same functionality you are trying to accomplish It can be very accurate within 100mm or 10 cm with feature ambient IR light compensation. You may look at the data-sheet hereby Chaisaeng - Ormerod
A very good machinist tip, Thanksby Chaisaeng - Ormerod
Quotedmould Quite possibly the unmodified part printed in ABS instead of PLA would be sufficient. ABS won't get soft due to the motor getting hot, and I think it is also a stronger plastic. Dave (#106) ABS will be quite flexible so the belt tension may pull it making the thin motor mount arm bent. It may not affect by heat generated by the motor but i think original design may need to modifiedby Chaisaeng - Ormerod
Thanks for all suggestion. .I think of something Erik do strengthen on both side of acrylic part with square aluminum and maybe cutting another square aluminum for motor mount.by Chaisaeng - Ormerod
Any one having this problem? I just reprint it an replace in my ormerod but still thinking of reinforce it to mor rigid. The bent was due to heat generated from the motor over long period of continuous printing The belt tension pull it so it will be seen prominently while it still installed in the printer. Anyone having idea to reinforce it so it will stay square with few effort.by Chaisaeng - Ormerod
Quoteormerod168 QuoteChaisaeng ...My version using 2 639 bearing in the center of the hub. It's dimension is 8mm OD 3mm ID and 4 mm height. This is a tamiya 4wd bearing but i did not buy it from rc store, they are very expensive if get it from them. Other dimension is quite the same as you did .. Yes, that bearing is a better choice, will give you more outer mass to work with, 1.15mm instead oby Chaisaeng - Ormerod
Still missing the cable ends ferules ;-)by Chaisaeng - Ormerod
Nice mod really!! I thought of enforcing the y motor mount as well. For now i just reprint the motor mount and replace the original one. I having problem on the motor mount lately after a long print the plastic That mount the stepper motor to move The bed soften due to heat generated from the moter, the causing the y belt loosen and the y motore mount bent due to the belt tension. Btw. I made a bby Chaisaeng - Ormerod
Is this cause by powering 5 V to the duet from your control circuit. I just want to do the same setting as yours but I already have the relay part assembled. Still dit not put together the circuits to it yet. My design having 78L05 and it never have the overheat problem because it only pulse the outout pins to toggle relay then go to sleep. Is it need to power the duet then I may have to take ouby Chaisaeng - Ormerod
I having the same problem before. Printing on glass is ok but you need to have really clean glass. I still print on kapton as well. The solution is crean it wit IPA it work for me all the time. Refer to my previous post hereby Chaisaeng - Ormerod
I got the same problem once. I asked in this thread I'm now having a print glass with kapton tape on and a newly cut print glass without kapton. I found that printing on kapton tape may having problem from time to time but resolving it by cleaning with IPA works every time.by Chaisaeng - Ormerod
I have these wires in my RC box which causing me confusing abot the wire gauge. Any one know abot this. The wire i bought ages ago was Astro Flight 16 GA is it a 16 AWG?by Chaisaeng - Ormerod
QuoteJoar107 My duet got really burned today the white speaker cable got to hot and melted some parts of the board, do not have time to investigate it right now. I will order a new duet right away but I really have to find out what can be done different to avoid this in the future. This happened when i tried to go up to 120 with the bed for a big abs print i normally stay at 100. I'm using the orby Chaisaeng - Ormerod
I did the calculation. The plan is to use 16 awg on 2 circuits with the length as short as 8 inches one way Calculation include the white wires connect duet to the power distribution board by assume that the white wires is 2.5mm in diameter which roughly = awg 10 the length of the white wire is around 8 inches one way totally i assume to be awg 10 32 inch long. The voltage drop on 12 v with loaby Chaisaeng - Ormerod
Please post the release note i.e. what changes, what new etc so we can have some insight of the new 065 official versionby Chaisaeng - Ormerod
Any one known the white wires size (Awg) connect the power board to the duet board?by Chaisaeng - Ormerod
I happened to have 16AWG silicone wires lying around in my RC Box which I did not look in to it for ages These wires are using to connect the motor that derive the RC car's wheels to the speed controller. I guess with 13A per circuits on the molex connector if i using these 16 awg wires then 2 circuit should handle up to 26 A thought there may be no or very little margin for the over current thatby Chaisaeng - Ormerod
I just visit molec site regarding maximum rating of this connector. It seem the standard ATX wires the i used will not handle current requires by ormerod.by Chaisaeng - Ormerod
Quotedroftarts Chaisaeng, what kind of PSU are you using? I guess not an ATX PSU? Is it something like this: If it is, you don't even need to use the ATX Power PCB. Just wire the white 2-core cable directly from the PSU to the Duet. Ian RepRapPro tech support I Printed this thing and fit it on my PSU. I like the idea not to chnage anything of powering the ormerod from this thing by retainingby Chaisaeng - Ormerod
Quotebobtidey Even if you are just using +12V supply form the ATX unit then you need the larger multi-way plugged in as well. This has two +12V connections in it as well and multiple grounds. It will spread the load current over more wires and connectors. You could up the gauge of the wiring to something more like the wire used to go into the Duet but if you aren't going to use the multi-way thby Chaisaeng - Ormerod
I using this cable which is supplied from the ATX psu. Yoday i found out that During print if the heat bed and hotend are activated simultaneously, the wires getting very hot and smoke came out of the insulator smell like pvc burning. I stop the print immediately. Question is which gage of wires i need to replace to prevent it from burning. I guess 4 wires with 22awg as supplied is not enough tby Chaisaeng - Ormerod
QuotePointy QuoteChaisaeng I hope the firmware can generate charge pump signal I asked about that here. DC said it wasn't necessary as the chip/firmware has a built in watchdog. For my PSU control, this is what I have come up with so far... 12v comes in through the 4 pin 20a connector, through the fuse to the relay board and will exit out bottom left. The board is controlled by an ATTiny45by Chaisaeng - Ormerod
I made my nozzle mout out of delrin using a hacksaw and dremel drill the holes. It not pretty but way better than the supplied plastic part.by Chaisaeng - Ormerod
I hope the firmware can generate charge pump signalby Chaisaeng - Ormerod
During the print before i have this screw cover, the thread rod sway more in the lower layer than the upper. Not sure this is normal behavior of the thread rod supplied with the kit or not. BTW. I just test print a simple cube and the quality of this test print is better than what i ever produced from my printer. Any good explanation? Are there any bad effect if I left the bearing on the mount.by Chaisaeng - Ormerod
Thanks for your suggestion. I'll test to print a square block to see whether it is ragged vertically. If so i'll take the bearing outby Chaisaeng - Ormerod
Hi, I design an additional part for my Ormerod. The Z Screw is quite anoying some time it almost get in to my eye during trying to do some adjustment on the ormerod So I design a cover and also utilize it for holding a bearing to smooth the Z screw rotation and make it less swaying. hope it useful somehow. BTW the Bearing I used is 695Zby Chaisaeng - Ormerod
The Print was ruined. unfortunate printing took almost 6 hours before find out that it was no gcode to put the column there. BTW. I used to print another part with explicit .2mm column for the support and slic3r generate the column that working the column was printed and it was 30 mm high. I need to reprint it with .2mm column then maybe tomorow.by Chaisaeng - Ormerod