Finally I had a little time to spend on this project... Installed FW 1.24 and did some experiments, but unfortunately I still cannot make it work the way I want. I have the following in lasermode.g: ; LASER SETTINGS M563 P0 D-1 H-1 ; clear tool M563 P0 D0 ; create a tool - no heaters M307 H1 A-1 C-1 D-1 ; Clear Heater 1 M452 P1 R255 F200 I1 ; switch to laser mode using Heater 1 PWM to controlby spiff - Ormerod
Thanks. I will try it out as soon as I get the chance, and let you know how it wentby spiff - Ormerod
Thanks @dc42, I found the following #define SUPPORT_LASER 1 // set nonzero to support laser cutters ... in RepRapFirmware/src/Duet/Pins_Duet.h, but I see that was only added 12 days ago. Does that mean that 1.24RC5 would be worth trying? I guess that would be much easier than trying to build the firmware myself I guess I will try it out and report back here how it goes.by spiff - Ormerod
Thanks for your reply @dc42, Regarding the G-code style, the web interface reported a lot of G-code errors, but whether that is because it is not supported in laser mode, or just because my firmware is not compiled with full laser mode, I do not know. But if I get a firmware compiled with full laser support, should the G1 commands enable the laser and G0 disable it? And should setting the poweby spiff - Ormerod
I finally had some time to get on with attaching the laser to my ormerod. I disconnected the heating cartridge on the hotend and initially just tried to light the LED on the hotend board. This is the G-code I start off with to switch to laser mode: M563 P0 D-1 H-1 M563 P0 D0 M307 H1 A-1 C-1 D-1 M452 P1 R255 F200 I1 However, I couldn't make the homing commands work (I had changed the S-parameteby spiff - Ormerod
Thanks, Is there any additional documentation regarding using a laser, apart from the M452 doc: ? From the example it seems using a heater output to control the laser is better. But how to configure the output? Edit: Is the M452 even supported on Duet 0.6? The docs mention something about FW 2.02, but the firmware I recently installed is 1.22 (2018-07-26b2). Best regards,by spiff - Ormerod
Hi all. I want to put a laser head on my Ormerod, in order to print buttons for my home automation system using this technique: I have ordered this laser head with driver: It has a TTL input for modulation, which I want to hool up to a PWM output on the Duet controller (mine is 0.6), in order to control the intensity of the laser (in the video above he uses a 300mW laser, but maximum duty cyby spiff - Ormerod
Third time lucky I am very pleased with the quality. My only (minor) complaint is a little too much extrusion on the first layer, but then again, I think that is what gave me such good bed adhesion and smooth bottom surface. Thank you all for your suggestions and support. Best regards,by spiff - Ormerod
Quoteormerod168 Yes that's a bit strange, there should be no problems with curl-ups that early, only if the print itself lifted from the bed No, the bottom 10-15 layers seem to have printed fine, and were firmly attached to the bed. Quoteormerod168 The first print looks fine as far as it went but the picture seems to show a bit of curl-up at the pointy bit at the wall of the hole that could havby spiff - Ormerod
Two cases of bad luck attempting to print the new bracket First one was yesterday. About an hour and a half into the print (and I was very satisfied with the print quality), suddenly the X-carriage slid off the bearing, and turned the whole thing into a mess. Maybe I need one of these as well: , but so far I have tied a thin piece of wire around the x-carriage and into the groove on the bearinby spiff - Ormerod
Thanks Erik, I will give yours a try. The red "plate" in the figure, is that a part used on Ormerod 2? Since I have Ormerod 1, I don't have that part, but is the Z-lower-mount still compatible? Thanks,by spiff - Ormerod
Thanks again dc42, I pulled your homing-tab into openscad and modified it slightly (getting rid of the hole for the original homing tab, and instead making the arm less wide, to avoid the problems I encountered). Now I just need to print it Regarding the lower Z mount, I found this thread , which describes a version made for cap head screws instead of countersunk. I think the reason why my parby spiff - Ormerod
Finally a little progress I generated new configuration files using the configurator and then used WinMerge to compare them to the old ones. And I had to reverse the X-axis in the config. I noticed two problems (but I am still able to print, so I can fix them): 1. I am using Iamburney's Herringbone Z Gears, and I notice that the X-homing target (which I believe I printed from DC42's intelliby spiff - Ormerod
Logged into the updated web interface, and tried to home X, i get the error message: Error: G0/G1: insufficient axes homed I probably missed some configuration update. Any pointers on how to proceed? EDIT: I do have a Z-probe reading, so connection seems correct. EDIT2: Just found this: I think that solves my problem, will try it out a little later today. Best regards,by spiff - Ormerod
Thank you Erik, I managed to update the firmware (using bossac) and DWC (just copied the files tot he SD card): Firmware Name: RepRapFirmware for Duet Firmware Electronics: Duet 0.6 Firmware Version: 1.22 (2018-07-26b2) Web Interface Version: 1.22.3 Now I will try to power up and see what happensby spiff - Ormerod
Thank you @dc42, I will check the proximity sensor after upgrading FW. I'm pretty sure I already reversed the X motor wiring at my last upgrade 3 years ago ;-) What would be the best way to upgrade my old duet 0.6 firmware? I used bossac before, and I probably still have it installed on my PC. I am not sure if my old firmware has bootloader capabilities? The instructions I found regarding RepRby spiff - Ormerod
Hi all. My Ormerod has been sitting on the shelf for almost 3 years, after we moved (and a lot of other projects around the new house took priority). Inspired by a few other posts on this forum, I decided to try and resurrect it again (as I did long time ago: ). I dusted it off yesterday and oiled a few parts, then powered it up. I couldn't really remember what state the printer was in, so Iby spiff - Ormerod
QuoteMetalBasher This looks like a useful mod, as several people have said. My problem is that the supplied gear set (Ormerod 2) has a slightly elliptical large gear. I've got it fettled to a state where it feeds ok. If you can print, I would suggest you print a new set of gears. QuoteMetalBasher The spring loaded version will accomodate the ellipticality but that might make the grip on the fiby spiff - Ormerod
Quoteormerod168 Yes - pulled the liner out and added a few layers of kapton tape That is a good idea. Seems like an easy fix - will try that first.by spiff - Ormerod
Hi all. I recently printed MasonStonehenge's Spring-loaded extruder, since my original ormerod extruder was getting somewhat squeaky, as others have reported (I haven't printed that much yet, so it is not worn through yet, but I thought I would replace the extruder before it failed). I use the version with room for a PTFE liner, and I cut a piece of the PTFE feeder tube that came with the Ormerby spiff - Ormerod
I tried printing this extruder: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:318458/#files file: Extruder_V2c_PTFE__With_Support_.stl It was sliced with Slic3r 1.2.9. Since the model already has support, Slic3r was configured for not generating support. However after printing a few layers, the support detached from the bed, so I cancelled the print. When I inspected the g-code, there was nothing in the firsby spiff - Slic3r
Thank you for your suggestions. QuoteDarathy check if the belt is sliping where its attached at the X caridge ,also check if the grub screw is tight on the pully. i have my X motor current set to 800 and it works fine .i think its the belt sliping becouse u probably tightened it a bit more then it was before. No, it dosn't seem like the belt is slipping in the X-carriage. Grub screw seems tightby spiff - Ormerod
Sunday I got the hotend board installed. Looks good and works pretty well, although I am wondering if it would be even more accurate with a different surface. My print bed is 3mm ALU PCB (tracks on the bottom, with a very thin layer of FR4), and a layer of 200mm wide kapton. Yesterday I managed to fit the aluminium X-arm kit from DD Metal. Looks really good, and quite sturdy. So the first testby spiff - Ormerod
QuoteRadian Hey spiff, it sounds like you're doing better than me at getting back up to speed! I'm trying hard to keep up with the developments around here now as it was unexpectedly painful skipping a whole year. Some horrible tenants in a rental property of mine soaked up all my spare time (and then some) last year fixing the near complete destruction of the place. Thanks. Well, then I hope myby spiff - Ormerod
Quotedmould I've not followed it closely, but look here and here Dave Thanks. I suppose, if it is a slicer bug, that it should be possible to find it in the g-code. And I could also try to print the part again, to see if the results are the same. But I guess I will initially just use the existing part, which I guess will work fine.by spiff - Ormerod
Quotedmould It could be caused by a known Slic3r bug (if you used that to slice). Loose belts can also cause that banding. Printing slower can cure a lot of symptoms (but not the underlying problem), so maybe print the same file again but use the web interface speed slider to slow to 75% or so. Yes, I am using Slic3r 1.2.9. Do you have additional information about when this bug occurs?by spiff - Ormerod
Hi All, I am trying to tweak my Slic3r settings, and have this in the Start G-code: G21 ; set units to millimeters G90 ; use absolute coordinates M83 ; use relative distances for extrusion M140 S ; Set bed temperature G1 Z5 F200 ; lift nozzle G1 X2 Y50 F2000 ; Go to wait for warm position M116 ; Wait for all temperatures M104 S ; set temperature (fake for Slic3r) G10 P0 S R160 ; Set tool 0 operby spiff - Ormerod
After having my Ormerod in the cupboard for about a year, I stumbled on this thread: That inspired me to dig out the machine, and get it printing again. A year ago I have installed the alu bed support from DD Metal Products, and my heated bed is 3mm aluminium PCB , with a layer of 200mm wide kapton, no glass plate. I also had DC42's differential Z-sensor/hotend board, but I never got around toby spiff - Ormerod
QuoteVortyZA What used to happen is it would upload part of the file, then when the upload failed and you re-uploaded the file it would append to the existing file rather than replace. Therefore halfway through the print it would be told to go back to the starting point (which is now buried under plastic! ) That was my first thought (and also the reason why I mentioned that the first upload failby spiff - Ormerod