I was all set to connect the replacement Duet board today, when I noticed an important difference. While the old board had pin connectors, the new one has screw terminals. So all the connectors on my wiring harnesses are not compatible! What should I do!? should I: modify my wiring harnesses to fit the new board? de-solder the screw terminals and replace them with the pin connectors from the oby kotori87 - Ormerod
I'll take a closer look at the board when I replace it. Today I went to a build session at a friend's house so we could do 3d printer stuff. I installed a shiny new aluminum X arm and a whole stack of other parts I'd printed before the crash, but ran out of time just as I finished re-installing the threaded rod for the Z drive. So I did not get to test the new board it may be a few more daysby kotori87 - Ormerod
The heater element reads 3.5 ohms, and the thermister read about 65k ohms. That seems normal. I also inspected the wiring. No visible damage or bare sections. Although I still don't know what caused the original problem, at this point I am confident to install the new board and cautiously begin testing. re: the heated bed, yes the aluminum heat spreader is installed, in the correct orientatiby kotori87 - Ormerod
I don't have a multimeter yet, but I will soon... Should I be concerned at all about the motors, heated bed, or the Z axis sensor?by kotori87 - Ormerod
tried disconnecting everything, with no luck. I also checked to see if any COM ports appeared when plugged in, again with no luck. Just the same solitary red LED below the USB port. It appears that the board is beyond my ability to repair, so I ordered a replacement board that arrived today. What systems should I check prior to installing the new board, so it doesn't die to the same cause thaby kotori87 - Ormerod
Ahoy folks! I think the duet board for my Ormerod 1 died today after crashing the printer head. I print in ABS due to PLA's tendency to warp in the hot, humid environment here in Georgia. To reach the bed temperature needed for ABS to stick, I often place a sheet of cardboard insulation on top of the bed, and remove it just before starting the print. Unfortunately I got careless and today I fby kotori87 - Ormerod
What is a reasonable level of accuracy, regarding squareness, dimensional tolerances, etc? I am calibrating my printer with with the stock test piece, and after four rounds of calibrating, the XY and YZ axes are square. The XZ axis is still off by about .375mm, which should be fixed in the next test. What is more concerning to me is how the test piece, which should measure exactly 90mm on eachby kotori87 - Ormerod
Oh, frustration! I have downloaded the V1 .stl files, but slic3r 1.17 refuses to read the very first part I need to print, the X carriage. None of the other files that I downloaded from the github directory worked, either. It "loads" the files, but does not display any preview and freezes whenever I try to export g-code. I even tried slic3r 2 beta and Cura, and they did the same thing. Am Iby kotori87 - Ormerod
Thanks for the advice. I decided to use up the PLA supplied with the kit before starting on my own supply of ABS. So I applied the paper squares and kapton tape, and have been happily printing gears, moustaches, and other parts since then. That said, I have a few more questions. First, where can I get some good test pieces to help me dial in my printer? I've done the basic calibration test,by kotori87 - Ormerod
Ahoy folks, I am almost done assembling my shiny new Ormerod printer. As I prepare for my first test prints, I am faced with a difficult choice. I primarily intend this printer to use ABS, since it survives the heat of a Georgia summer in the trunk of my car better than PLA does. I have been told by several 3d printers in my area that the ormerod's heated bed will work great with ABS without aby kotori87 - Ormerod
Thanks for the advice! I have contacted support. Until a replacement part arrives, I will make do with a superglue repair.by kotori87 - Ormerod
Ahoy folks! I have run into some difficulty while assembling my new Ormerod printer. As I was tightening down the four M3 x 25mm screws that hold the X motor bracket to the X axis plate, I heard a *pop* and the X axis plate cracked right around the steel rod. The break is a clean line all the way from the bottom of the motor to the radiused corner inside the L shape. I'd attach a picture butby kotori87 - Ormerod