Thanks I`ll give it a try on Friday By the way, I just found out that also in "default.g" there are the M201 M203 M566 commands. I have always taken into account the ones in "config.g". Which are the actual values that are being used?by Ludo91 - Ormerod
The machine is printing from SD card (it`s even disconnected from the PC), so I assume the problem must be in the only config file for speed and acc: M201 X800 Y800 Z15 E1000 ; Accelerations (mm/s^2) M203 X15000 Y15000 Z100 E3600 ; Maximum speeds (mm/min) M566 X600 Y600 Z30 E20 ; Minimum speeds mm/minuteby Ludo91 - Ormerod
Hello, same problem as Dmould! The circles are made so jerkly that the resulting pieces are seriously compromised. This was not happening while using the reprap as a plotter with the same firmware, there speeds were way lower and detail size greater. Also gcode was not slic3r geenrated but from Vcarve. In the google drive folder linked here is a video of the issue, the stl of the parts and theby Ludo91 - Ormerod
Wooooorks like a charm! Paypal for beer?!by Ludo91 - Ormerod
Cool, if I m not going wrong yours implements watchdog timers to avoid uncontrolled overheating right? I ll do the switch, where can I find a changelog or something? Stuff like wiring changes, g code changes as extruder number and similar stuff....by Ludo91 - Ormerod
Hello! I am working on a pcb milling mod for the Ormerod and I am writing some very basic gcode to test it. Problem is, seems I can`t get it to move slowly! Here is the ultra-basic code i wrote: G21 // Set units to mm G91 // Relative movements G1 F60.0 G1 X50 G1 Y50 G1 X-50 G1 Y-50 It indeed draws a square BUT going way faster than 1mm/sec and - but i need to doublecheck it- not of the corrby Ludo91 - Ormerod
Couldn`t be more clear. Thankyou! I`ll look forward to use your firmware then / wait for RRP to implement those safety things if thats gonna happen anytime soon. Only thing that stops me from going from rrp fw to yours is that it is not really clear to me if I`ll have to rewire something/ re-do .g files that I already use with this fwby Ludo91 - Ormerod
I am thinking about using a microswitch for the Z axis as used for the bed. I would position it near the extruder but on a higher position (so does not interfere with printing) and "click" it having the head move over the screws and the for corners of the bed (obv changing them with 4 taller ones). What do you think? SHould be quite simple to implementby Ludo91 - Ormerod
I know what a WDT is, and I am very glad you implemented it in you firmware. I am trying that out soon, being able to leave it unattended in safety is a musst for me. You may want to check out Miosix open source RTOS, , it is being developed by a uberskilled PhD at my university and I think may be a great think on the rrpby Ludo91 - Ormerod
RepRap Firmware 0.78 from 11-06-2014. Beside uploading files to Sd card via plugging it out and sticking it in the pc (I just read dc42`s explanation about connection brdiging, but havent found out how to upload files via web interface) how can I be sure that this is not going to happen again? Id be really upset if the hotend gets damaged by such a bug! Isn`t there some watchdog timer in placeby Ludo91 - Ormerod
Hi, I am having this worrying issue on my Ormerdo: Whenever a file is uploaded by serial connection when it is then printed the machine would stop somewhere during the print and turn off the nozzle heather whilst turning the bed heater to full power. No big deal, tho it would be a HUGE one if the other way round happens! Hints?by Ludo91 - Ormerod
Hello, I am experimenting with ninjaflex and having a Ormerod (Bowden extruder) I cannot use retraction, thus it is very important to be able to never cross perimeters, so every oozing remains inside the print. So I used the "do not cross perimeter function", but to my big surprise Slic3r 1.1.9 fails at doing so while 0.9.9 totally wins! Why??by Ludo91 - Slic3r
I actually made a little mod just ONE PIECE to replace to my ormerod and am printing a LOT of ABS with no problems and excellent results. No cardboard, no overvolting no noothing. Here is the threadby Ludo91 - Ormerod
I did pretty much a lot of work on the topic and am now printing abs the easy way:by Ludo91 - Ormerod
Had the same problem a while ago, someone started copying my project log from a forum and publishing it as his ( ). Flooded the forum with link to my original log and the the copycat page was taken down. I wasnt very pissed, I just took it as a "I love your work so much that I wish I was good enough to make it by myself!" So I took it as a compliment Still, it was something not commercial atby Ludo91 - Ormerod
News! I am printing abs like crazy and the mothod works flawlessy, still Id like to point out one thing: the acetone dissolved abs need to be sprayed in various different pass so that when it lands on the bed it remains "organized in maaany very small spheres" like when it s nebulized. Doing so lets you have a "silk like" surface which has monster adhesion, if you make a "lake" the surface willby Ludo91 - Ormerod
I printed those parts in ABS but with my method they are not needed since the bed is at "just" 87 c and the hot end is kept at a way greater distance from its support than standard. I checked with a termocouple and nothing is anywhere near dangerous temperatures, try it to believe!by Ludo91 - Ormerod
Great Thret, looking forward to hear about your experience, curious if I m just the lucky dude or if with just one piece and a 5 minute spraying we can print abs with no others mods. Here is my glass+kapton tape covered in sprayed acetone. 4 pass, one minut apart. Result is GREAT, feels like silk and has monster adhesion. Only "downside" is that the sprayer need some convincing because itis noby Ludo91 - Ormerod
Hi! Did it! And here are the setting if someone wants to try too and confirm this is really the "easy way"! :-) I picked a real piece of abs,big lego brick (only three of them because I was feeling too guilty ) and dissolved it about a glass of acetone. I kept it thin, I`d say like whole milk, and now I spray it using one glass cleaner spray. I spray it three times from distance and give itby Ludo91 - Ormerod
Thanks to dc42 I sortd out the problems. The above setup effectively makes me print abs with only the extruder support mod, which is awesome, still I`d like to be able to print larger part, seems that I have to use the acetone-abs slur thing... problem is I can t make it! I punt some abs extra pieces in a bottle with acetone but they didnt melt, they have been in there for more that 8 hrs and juby Ludo91 - Ormerod
I do execute a T1 command in the setup file, so the error is related to the P0. Thank you Does that cmmand overrides the other temperature settings? I suspect I`d be bettter off without it and just add an extruder off to the end of the gcode, right?by Ludo91 - Ormerod
Hi DC, thankyou for your promt and kind reply. Yes my precedent firmware was 0.57, issue 1. I am curious of the rationale behind chaning numbers but the the issue is solved in the way you described, I got one "Attempt to set temperatures for non-existent tool: 0" error message and i cant understand what Gcode instruction is it related to but it is no big deal since i kept an eye on the temp monby Ludo91 - Ormerod
Hi, I updated from 0.67 to 0.78 and this started quite a bounch of problems:L -live temperature readings during print do not work anymore ---> NOT SOLVED -says no esxtruder selected -----> turns out now extruders are counted from 1 and not 0. Why the hell!? FIXED -when i start a print it moves utterly slow. like, it correctly print but moving about 10* slower than it should do. NOT SOLby Ludo91 - Ormerod
That is correct. I then update my firmware but various problems kicked in, I opened a thread asking for help :-(by Ludo91 - Ormerod
Had same issue. Change extrude number, instead of counting from zero start counting from one. No idea why they changed this but that s what the problem was (at least on my ormerod )by Ludo91 - Ormerod
HI! First of all: BEWARE OF THE "BUG!" In the preconfigured slic3r setting for Ormerod I downloaded there is a M140 commad in the custom Gcode: that makes the temperature setting for the first layer uneffective and defaults it to the PLA temperature, as correcly explained in this topic I fixed it but still, I cant understand why slic3r then uses an M190 command to set the first bed temperatureby Ludo91 - Ormerod