I printed it without support.by Form232-tek - Ormerod
I have tried to upload the files again, and I think I made it this time. Feel free to test it out, and please give me feedback on any adjustments. You need all the 3 Cthulhu stl.files to make the hot end in the pictures. Cheers Joar.by Form232-tek - Ormerod
Hi. I've got the files ready, but I can't figure out how to upload them in the Github, and they are to big to attach here. What to do?by Form232-tek - Ormerod
Quotejstck That's a mighty fine fan duct you got there. Is it available for download somewhere? It's not avaiable yet. I will upload it when the model is adjusted. Link to more pictures: Cheers Joarby Form232-tek - Ormerod
Hi. Just a thought: -Have you tried to increase the bed temperature? It has helped me before. I also turn on the bed manually to let it have some time to get evenly hot. 5 minutes or so works for me. The heat sensor measures the temperature below the glass, so the top surface of the glass will have a lower temperature at the the time the sensor reaches your programmed level and the printer startby Form232-tek - Ormerod
It would be priceless if you made it look like thisby Form232-tek - Ormerod
Thanks for the reply. I'm working on SolidWorks. I intend to add the parts to the improvements page, but they need some adjustments first. Joar.by Form232-tek - Ormerod
QuoteKaGen101 I wait about 5-10mins after print and then it just comes off. It comes of remarkably easy in comparison to things on the Kapton tape.... It is like when the hair spray cools again then the bond wants to disengage...you can also spray some PC Duster or similar product on it but the wait has never been that long. I print directly to the glass, but without hairspray or anything else.by Form232-tek - Ormerod
Hello. Thought some of you could have interest in this. I don't know if you guys have tried to make threads directly in the plastic? My experience is that the threads ain't good enough for any use. Therefore I came up with this solution; If you need internal threads in you print, an easy way is to make a nut shaped room in the model. It's important to make the space a bit larger than the nutby Form232-tek - Ormerod
Thank you for the reply Kim. I had problems with the front end bearing wandering of, and this was the easy fix. Maybe a snap-fitting would be the solution here? Strong enough to keep the board in place, but self releasing if lifting forces occurs. Joar.by Form232-tek - Ormerod
Hello folks. My Ormerod has the same problems as all the others, so before I start, want to thank you guys in this forum. It has helped me a lot. 'I've been here reading for a while, and now it's my turn to make a small contribution. The whole idea with this project is to remove the flow stopping 90 deg turns, get rid of the half heated air from cooling the hot end, and get plenty of fresh colby Form232-tek - Ormerod