Awsome... great job.... so no support material is needed... hope for a build kit of such a printer....by muggi - Ormerod
Hi, i updated to the new Paneldue Firmware. No the display doesnt show the Quick commands. My idea is to add my normally used commands to it......by muggi - Ormerod
Heat up the printhead and wait for the pla gets melting. Then you can remove it with a pliersby muggi - Ormerod
Quotedc42 I've done some work on the enclosure design produced by dmould and appjaws1. The mounts for the controller PCB are still in the wrong place, so are the holes for the Erase and Reset buttons and the USB connector, however the cutouts and mounting stands should now be correct for the non-Itead 4.3 inch display. As I may not be able to work on it again until late tomorrow, I have checked iby muggi - Ormerod
Hi, i already ordered a controller from you.. For german Ormerod friends, exptech.de sells the ITDB02-4.3 Displayby muggi - Ormerod
like it!!!!!by muggi - Ormerod
hi mirkov, works perfect for my. I mounted it with screws.... no change needed!by muggi - Ormerod
Hi, i now use this one since about 8 weeks with every day printing....!!! And it looks like never used. Perfect thing! https://youprintin3d.de/hardware/heizbetten/94/dauerdruckplatte-aluminium.htmlby muggi - Ormerod
Nice work Davidby muggi - Ormerod
Hi David, yes i can confirm that it goes from 1-3 (more than 1.7mm between bed and noozle) to 465(1.7-1.6 mm between bed and noozle) and then 535(closer then 1.6mm between bed and noozle).by muggi - Ormerod
Hi David, so i checked if an LED or the phototransistor is bend, but all are on a good position. So why i cant get no readings on my glas plate with kapton? If i use a hite paper on the plate the readings are ok and about 1.6 mm above the bed.by muggi - Ormerod
Hi David, on my permantent print aluminium plate i have G31 P500 Z1.65 in my config.g. So i think the mount point of the sensor board (your modded Fan Duct) is ok. The board is perpendicular. Only if i tiltit (appjaws dual noozle mount) closer to the bed, the probe works on kapton. I will check if the led´s or the sensor is bend now. Quotedc42 Muggi, when you were using the permanent print platby muggi - Ormerod
Hi In the past i only use a permanent Print plate but no it is broken. So I go back to a glass plate with kapton tape. I wanted to home Z with my dual noozle proximity board, but the axis didn't stop, and the hotend crashed to the bed. I the probe didn't recognize the kapton and glas plate.The probe value don´t raise up to over 500, it stay´s at 1-3. My wiring is only 3-wires with the probe...by muggi - Ormerod
Hallo Klaus, ja den schreibe ich nun auch an. Dachte aber vielleicht hat einer schon Erfahrungen.by muggi - Allgemeines
Hi, habe mir vor einiger Zeit eine Dauerdruckplatte vür mein MK2 heizbett von clever3d.de geholt (Produktlink). Nach so 30 Tagen sehe ich langsam so "Abnutzungsspuren". Die Platte ist nicht mehr so matt an den stellen, wo oft ein Druckteil liegt, sondern wird glänzend, als ob sich die Beschichtung langsam weniger wird. Ich habe auch das Gefühl, dass die Haftung an diesen Stellen nachlässt. Haby muggi - Allgemeines
Hi alan, i think this should be no problem.by muggi - Ormerod
Quotedmould Quotedc42 Dave, thanks for the feedback! I'm glad it's working well for you. My next planned firmware changes are: 1. Complete the serial interface support, ready for the TFT controller board. 2. Rewrite parts of the Move code to provide smoother movement, to provide adjustable pre-compensation for Bowden extruder lag, and to support delta printers. This probably won't happen untilby muggi - Ormerod
i have little oozing with this settings... print =200 standby = 160 degrees 10mm retraction on tool changeby muggi - Ormerod
Hi, i want to fine tune my dual noozle setup. Any hints to prevent oozing?by muggi - Ormerod
Hmm... So i will Test it without modding... Many thanksby muggi - Ormerod
Hi David, reason of the calibration is: Thermistor Hotend 1 on Room Temperature = 25 Degrees (M305 P1 H18.2 L-14 in the config.g) Thermistor Hotend 2 on Room Temperatur = 34 Degrees (M305 P1 H18.2 L-14 in the config.g) I cheked this also by sending M305 P1 and M305 P2. I play around with a lot of M305 P2 H values but the web interface shows about 30 - 38 Degrees (it jumps because the nois oby muggi - Ormerod
Hi I am on 078r and want to calibrate my seconds noozle thermistor and also no differenence if i change the H value. Also checked the actual settings every time to be right...by muggi - Ormerod
Hi paul, i like your idea very much, so u modded the scad file to mach the dc42/davek heatsinkblock. Here is a picture mounted together.by muggi - Ormerod
Hi i also had this issue a view weeks ago.... in my case it was a combination of to "wet" fillament (no sealing against hydroscopic behavior) and a "dirty" not cleaned hobbed insert.by muggi - Ormerod
Quotedc42 Hi muggi, For wiring all you need to do is: - buy a 2-pin header socket with 2.54mm spacing (or a 2-pin Molex header shell would probably be OK), and crimp pins to fit it. Just like the ones I supply with my hot end board. Connect the wires of a normally-open push button to the 2 pins. Then remove the jumper from the ATX power board and substitute the 2 pin header socket. I'm not suby muggi - Ormerod
Thanks for all comments I will try "Only infill where needed"....by muggi - Ormerod
Hi, i just printed this skull form thingiverse http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:441087/#files. The print is ok, little adjustment for a first try..... but only the top of the skull isn´t good. Slic3r: Any hints to avoid this for a print without infill?by muggi - Ormerod