Dan, Did you upload the printed parts anywhere? I'm revuilding my original Ormerod and the things I'm looking to address have already been covered in your build (direct drive Z axis, new hot end, etc.) Daveby Fatlab - Ormerod
Hi, I'd appreciate some advice on how people set their Z0 position. I'm familiar with using a piece of paper and dropping until resistance is felt but thats a bit subjective and I think I may be over setting the position. I've an Ormerod 1 with DC42's upgraded sensor and his 1.09k firmware. The bed is physically set to within 0.05mm across the four corners and centre before any sort of logicalby Fatlab - General
QuoteTreito QuoteBriComp I'm slightly confused. As I understand it you have the heated bed with Glasson the top of it held down with clamps. You then print onto Kapton tape which is stuck to the Glass. Are you saying that the Glass is Warping, surely not? Of course not. The edges of the printed parts have a slightly lift off by around 0.2mm. This is enough for the sensor to get caught at the priby Fatlab - General
I have upgraded the print head on my Ormerod 1 with the unit produced by DC42 and can confirm that the upgraded sensor head and five point auto levelling works fine with PrintBite. I've also added the aluminium X axis upgrade and replaced the wooden bed frame with the aluminium three point upgrade and the unit s now very stable.by Fatlab - General
Thanks guys, after posting I'd come to the conclusion about increasing the temps. I'd not changed the bed from 60c but had started a print at 220c and also increased the first layer height to 0.4 from 0.24 which seemed to make a difference. At least until the x-axis assembly slipped off its slide bearing then it was back to square one.... So I'll up the bed to 70c and set the first layer print tby Fatlab - General
Mutley3D, I've been trying to print onto the PrintBite from my Ormerod 1 for the last couple of days and I'm having major problems getting the first layer to stick to the surface. I'm now using Faberdashery 1.75mm PLA having moved off some bulk white PLA that just wouldn't stay put full stop. The settings I've tried are all of the combinations in 5 degree steps of bed from 55c to 70c and hot enby Fatlab - General
QuoteMutley3D Hi Treito, asbo, - Use a double sided tape for sticking down vinyl flooring. Its thin, cheap effective and available from all decent homeware or hardware stores. Otherwise you have the 3M 468P tape option but this is not so cheap. It is advised to stick down the whole surface completely. If you stick it down around the edges it may not work as it may bow or warp under heat stress, aby Fatlab - General
Mutley, Like Sven, I have an Ormerod which has a glass bet size of 200 x 214. Can you do a custom size to accommodate the extra 14mm over the 200 x 200 on the web site? Either way I'll order a unit but it would be good not to lose the print space. Dave (UK)by Fatlab - General
Sven, David, Thanks for the prompt responses, they were the pointers I needed. I've made the changes and also adapted the config.g from the latest firmware on Git. Daveby Fatlab - Ormerod
David, I've just pulled my Ormerod 1 with your Hot End upgrade out of mothballs and updated the firmware from your 0.78q release to 1.09k and updated the web interface files to the latest version. The issue I now have is that the heating monitor for the bed works fine in terms of monitoring the bed temperature and being able to set it with the active drop down but the Head 1 Active and Standby dby Fatlab - Ormerod
With this firmware and the previous 0.78 versions I have an issue after the print finishes. The hot end temperature changes over from 'active' to 'standby' and there is no way to change the temperature after that point without powering off the unit. Embedded temperature commands in the gceode file are ignored. Is powering off and on the only option or have I missed something fundamental? Dave Oby Fatlab - Ormerod