I am using 1.15c on both of my Ormerods - it works fine on my Ormerod 2. I find the temperature fault code has made it impossible to print with ABS on my Ormerod 1 - for which the bed heater is hopelessly underpowered. I can just get the bed to 120 so that ABS sticks to the glass plate (by insulating it before beginning the print) - but, whilst printing the first layer the nozzle cooling fan causby ChristofSchwiening - Duet
I wonder if someone could help? I have been getting intermittent heated bed errors on my Ormerod 2 (528.2). I have done all of the sensible checks (continuity, resistance, rewiring) but I have not managed to find the problem. Currently with the thermistor (one of several that I have tried) plugged in via separate leads gives a reading of 1094.1 °C. When I disconnect the thermistor I get a bed errby ChristofSchwiening - Ormerod
Dear All, There must be a simple explanation for this. One of my Ormerod's web interface pauses - "busy" - whilst the hot end heats up to temperature. If, by accident, I set the temperature to below room temperature then the interface seems to hang completely (or until I do an Emergency stop). Is this normal? Greetings, Christofby ChristofSchwiening - Ormerod
Yep, just tweaked the pot on my Ormerod 2 up to 13V (when the bed is hot). It does make a difference to the clamping of the bed temperature during the print. It nows holds solid at 130 degrees C during the print. The adhesion with ABS is now excellent even without any acetone treatment - in fact it may be too good!by ChristofSchwiening - Ormerod
So, the 30W (RS 731-366) 150x200mm blanket placed on top of the heated bed (with tin foil above) has decreased the warm-up time. It now takes 7 mins to go from room temperature to 110oC. I have measured the voltage going to the heated bed and it is 11.37V. So, there is scope for a bit more power there....I guess I need to break open the power supply and see if there is a pot to tweak!by ChristofSchwiening - Ormerod
I have just modified my Ormerod 2 to allow for faster heating. I have removed the MDF/wood rectangle that makes-up the bed support as well as the aluminium heat spreader. Doing this makes the bed a lot lighter and it reduces the thermal mass considerably. I have then used an aluminium foil blanket (just a folded rectangle) to cover the bed during heating. The result is that the glass bed (with thby ChristofSchwiening - Ormerod
Dear All, It has probably been covered many times here - but, it is worth posting it again! I accidentally broke one of the vanes on my hot end cooling fans yesterday (don't ask...). I went out to Maplins this morning and bought their 40mm (10mm thick - N48QT) low noise fan and fitted it. The fan is clearly pushing less air, but the temperature measurements of the heat sink are stable at 45 degreby ChristofSchwiening - Ormerod
Excellent - that was just what I was looking for. I will print the modified fan housings and see whether it improves things. Many thanks, Christofby ChristofSchwiening - Ormerod
In my department we have three 3D printers - a Makerbot, a Mendel and an Ormerod. My son has an Ormerod at home. The Makerbot is setup to use ABS and the Mendel is printing PLA. Looking at the design structure the Mendel and Huxley look more stable than the Ormerod - but, they seem to have larger footprints. The Ormerod is compact, but the adjustments to get a flat looking bed are not well designby ChristofSchwiening - Ormerod
Dear All, I have switched from using PLA to ABS and I am having some problems. First, I had difficulty in getting the ABS to stick to the heated bed. Running the bed continually with a foil insulator blanket gets it up to 120 degrees - but once it is uncovered the temperature rapidly drops to about 95 degrees. The room temperature is relatively warm (~26 degrees). I have tried improving the belowby ChristofSchwiening - Ormerod
Well guys, thanks for all of the help. I now have a single layer of PLA beautifully stuck to the glass bed with no compensation at all - absolutely perfect. In the end it came down to a few tweaks. The metal plate to support the MDF, removing the screws on the corners of the bed at the far end of the x axis and using a single spring loaded screw, replacing the countersunk Y-axis end plate bolts wby ChristofSchwiening - Ormerod
Yes, I was wondering about the accuracy and focussing. The bumping into things is relatively easy to avoid if one starts scanning high and one knows what the 'head exclusion zone' is. The probe could then negotiate downwards in the safe areas. With a bit of interpolation, smoothing etc it might just be good enough. I have now aligned my parallel bars, added the spring adjuster and I will try someby ChristofSchwiening - Ormerod
DC42, yes that makes sense - I had not thought about that. I can see that a pair of non-parallel rods would cause the far end of the bed to shift in Z as it moves in Y, independently of any Y bed slope - no wonder I couldn't get a flat bed compensation. It is all more complicated than I imagined! I am away from the printer at the moment, but I am looking forward to seeing if the twist is visibleby ChristofSchwiening - Ormerod
Just before I disappear. Attached is a scan of the heated bed resting on the "poor man's" aluminium support modification (i.e. I have placed the aluminium sheet on the MDF, cardboard on top and rested the heated bed on that). I have placed screws in each corner, but no nuts or clamps - it is just resting. The heated bed has about a 2.5 mm bend in it.by ChristofSchwiening - Ormerod
OK, this is embarrassingly bad construction. I have strapped the bed to the front slider (cable tie) and made a 'calibrated' scan of the MDF bed. It is not level! There is a 2 mm slope in the Y axis (at maximum X) although the linear bearing side (X home) of the Y axis is flat. The X-axis also slopes by over 1mm. So, the bed is twisted. Before making any adjustments I will attach the drilled alumby ChristofSchwiening - Ormerod
Dear DC42, I don't yet know. The bend in the glass (when all 5 screws were attached) appeared to be enough to induce sputter in the middle of the bed and leave unattached PLA being pipped at the edges. To address the question I have just finished making a fully calibrated Excel VBA x,y,z scanning routine (which I have now packaged in a more user friendly fashion). Would anyone like to give it a wby ChristofSchwiening - Ormerod
No, Erik I haven't adjusted the Y axis end plates. It is a good idea. To get that right I will write a Z height calibration routine for my bed level scanning scripts and then I will try and scan the MDF/wood bed and get that level. Then I will drop the heated bed on top of it (with cardboard) and clamp it tight and scan that. Earlier this afternoon I clamped the metal base to the MDF and ran a scby ChristofSchwiening - Ormerod
OK, guys I have had a few hours playing. So, the X-axis arm was rather too easy to twist - so I have tightening it a bit. I can't tell which position is level, but I am now fairly convinced it isn't the problem. This morning I wrote a VBA script to control the Ormerod via the serial port and create a 3D infra-red reflectance test routine (or a proxy for height if reflectance remains constant). Itby ChristofSchwiening - Ormerod
Many thanks for all of the replies. I like the three-point support solution Erik. I will have to see how it works with the curved heated bed. I will try putting a washer between the glass and the heater at each clip - that should reduce any bending. I agree, jstck, the glass can't flex that much. So, I need to consider the x-arm. Am I right in thinking, droftarts, that if there is a flex/twist inby ChristofSchwiening - Ormerod
I don't know if anyone can help. I have little experience of 3D printing - but, I am a scientist who routinely deals with microscopy and electronics. My son and I have put together an Ormerod and have managed a few prints (including a passable orthogonal test piece) but we are struggling with both the Z-axis height and bed compensation. It took us quite a time to realize that the Z-height probeby ChristofSchwiening - Ormerod