Hello! its been so long since i last visited this forum The reason I'm returning are because I'm looking to try a 0.3mm nozzle for my printer, I currently have the 0.4mm one (or if its 0.5 i have no idea) (( If it matters, I have the ormerod that was released jan 2014 I think, its maybe not the first version Ormerod but its definitely not Ormerod 2 )) So, are anyone selling and what's yourby victhor - Ormerod
Thanks everyone! it now prints like the picture with the black fillament, no blobbing, no stringing JUST PERFECT PRINTSby victhor - Ormerod
Hello, Im trying to improve my print quality with a new pla fillament, here is what it looks like now: ( More images: ) I've tried printing in diffrent temps (using the Slic3r settings RepRap set for the Ormerod) 210*c gave me the best result, where do I go from here? Here are some of my settings: perimeters: 70mm/s, small perimeters 30mm/s, gap fill 30mm/s, bridges 70mm/s layers & perby victhor - Ormerod
Hey Dave, This may have been suggested allready but it would be helpful (atleast for me) if you could add a name when adding a temp, I made a example image. I will update to your firmware and update the web interface the minute I find my damn usb cable hahaha, its lost among the hundreds of cables I have in my office Best regardsby victhor - Ormerod
I modified my 3d printer just for this reason, I also had the bed "off" by 2-3 mm so i used the adjustable bed mod instructions here: (You need 5 locknuts (nylonic nut), 5 20mm M3 screws, 5 M3 washers and 5 M3 you will stil need to use the bed compensation, but the Z axis wont have to move more than 0.5 mm if you've done it properlyby victhor - Ormerod
Thanks for the answers everyone! Quotejstck Get one of those power meters that you plug in the wall socket and measure it. Will give you both current power draw as well as average over time, for your particular use case. I'll look for that next time i visit an electric store Quotejphoo123 I measured the power consumption just the other day, this is what I recorded: 15W on stand-by 23W whilby victhor - Ormerod
Hello, I want to know a Ormerod 3d printer's power consumption. No mods like increasing the power to the bed or anything is used. power outlet is 230 v I got the 2nd "version" of the ormerod. ((sorry for the short post, i have no time to type more, i will edit this with more information later)) best regards // Victhorby victhor - Ormerod
I also have this problem, I didnt have it before and i have not changed the firmware or webinterface version. I'll get back to you when i have TEH SOLUTIONby victhor - Ormerod
I fixed the problem, thanks for all your help! I will edit this post with the solution. (I also fixed a problem where the nut on the threaded rod moved when going up and down on the z axis, I simply put a piece of paper between the nut and the printed part and the nut is no longer moving when the z axis is making small steps up and down.) Solution: Change the M5 threaded rod preferably rust-frby victhor - Ormerod
Problem: Some places on the M5 rod the nut is harder to turn, the rod also seems a little bent, the top of the rod is moving approx 5mm from side to side. Because the nut is harder to turn at some places, the Z motor seems to skip a layer because it thinks that it has moved. Big blobs were created when I tried to save this print, sometimes the Z axis wouldnt go up because the nut got stuck, so Iby victhor - Ormerod
QuoteDeuxVis victhor, we can actually remove that thread as you asked, but could you please instead explain how you solved the problem in a few words ? This way if another user is looking for help on that matter your post can be a reference. I'll update the main post with the solutionby victhor - Ormerod
Quotezeb00 Hi Victhor Yes it looks to me that your bed is not level. As you said it would be best to get the bed as level as possible but even then you may need to turn on bed compensation. there is lots of ideas theory's and documentation on this but I found the following two the most helpful while getting started Bed Plane Compensation – setting by hand Even if you use a more automated methodby victhor - Ormerod
Solution: Tighten the screws in the corners of the bed, so they cant unscrew themselves.Make sure that the bed is sitting correctly on the Y bearing (see example image below)Re-do the manual compensation but instead using the values P0= X60 Y30, P1= X60 Y170, P2= X180 Y170, P3= X180, Y30. (Use theese values If you use paperclips to secure the glass to the heatbed, the fan wont crash into the papeby victhor - Ormerod
I had/have the same problem when I was/am going to print, so I just do it manually for now. (I use the web interface, but the options should be in pronterface too) 1: Turn the motors off, move the X axis all the way back, then home the x axis, it should move itself to X=60 (if I remember correctly) if it doesnt, move it all the way back again and type "G92 X0" but without the " this should tby victhor - Ormerod
Hello, I've already done that part with the paper & Its now listed in the build guide for the ormerod 2: I will do that! i got un used led-strips 3: im interested but i dont have any money right now I'll come back to you next monthby victhor - Ormerod
Thanks for both your help, it turns out that was the problem.. my ir sensor seems to bee a bit "joggy" or what word i should use.. The Zprobe numbers jump between 700 and 900by victhor - Ormerod
I guess so, and the easy fix would be to remove that line in the gcode, or turn it off in the slic3r software if there is such option? ----------------------------- ; generated by Slic3r 1.1.6 on 2014-08-03 at 01:44:31 ; perimeters extrusion width = 0.50mm ; infill extrusion width = 0.52mm ; solid infill extrusion width = 0.52mm ; top infill extrusion width = 0.52mm ; support material extrusionby victhor - Ormerod
Hello, Im new to 3d printing and I have no idea whats causing this problem, But I will try to provide as much information as I can. This is what i do to print something: I set the Z axis using a paper between the bed and extruder to get the height just right then I send the G92 Z0 command to set Z as 0. I set the heat for the extruder to 200*c and the bed for 65*c and wait for them to heat up.Tby victhor - Ormerod