I know there is a thread about this but i thought it better not to dig it up so here is my progress so far (my only 2 hours of free time this week) made from a piece of 12x25mm ALU and uses the same hole spacing as the heatsink block from DaveK0974. Because the thickness is 12mm compared to the 8mm of the original block the standard reprap pro bowden tube fitting need a 6mm clearance hole 4mmby zeb00 - Ormerod
QuoteFpexJust bought one. I hope it works better than the Carbon fiber plate that so far has been a big failure. What problems are you having with the Carbon plate? It has been working well for me cf bed upgradeby zeb00 - Ormerod
All done. runs a lot smother then the 5mm version. printer just needs a clean then i will be back to printingby zeb00 - Ormerod
QuoteMelmie Yep, just go for it it works great. And i can't complain about precision. Still more than you need. I hope you have the 2mm thread. Was hard to find here. Standard seems to be 3mm and that is to much i think. Yep TR10x2 had from another project just turned down one end to 8mm and cut to length. the only nuts i had that were suitable were delrin which would not have been my first choby zeb00 - Ormerod
QuoteMelmie Thats only a problem in a perfect world Zeb00. Every ormerod owner has to tighten the X-belt. Great point. Mine is the whole way in but i will loosen by one tooth and and slide it out a little. i have a TR10 all ready to go but was waiting to do my 4020 x axis. but looks like it will work anywayby zeb00 - Ormerod
QuoteMelmie I can easely connect this rod to the x-axis plate because i made a new alu x-axis plate. Not sure what your setup looks like at the moment. but with the standard x motor position and using the standard z gear position a tr10x2 will clashby zeb00 - Ormerod
Quotedmould it should be possible to make them adjustable (and so will require mechanical adjustment which may not be a bad thing). Dave yeah i agree on the need for them to be parallel so stop the bearing binding. The orthogonal alignment is already relying on printed non adjustable parts so i dont see this as an issue the current motor position is the same but i will add some belt tensionerby zeb00 - Ormerod
yeah to be honest it would have been cheaper to just get some cut out of alu as shipping the 2040 here was a bit of a hassle but point was more to replace the need for laser cut parts. As the 2040 was used in the kit anyway and is easily cut it seemed like a good option. for the end plate i think something like this should work although once i have printed one if i am still not happy i will incby zeb00 - Ormerod
I have been working on removing the reliance on laser cut acrylic. has anyone tried 2040 for the x axis? also has anyone printed y axis end plates?by zeb00 - Ormerod
Ok it has to be G31 Z-0.2 G30 I thought with m558 p0 I may be able to treat it as a normal axis and home instead or probe but that will work. Thanksby zeb00 - Ormerod
I have just finished changing over to micro-switch end stops on the X and Z axis and noticed some strange behavior. I am running 0.78h-dc42 I made the following changes to config.g changed to M558 P0 commented out all other G31 and M557 commands changed the last two lines from M208 X214 Y210 M208 X-8 S1 to M208 X214 Y210 Z200 M208 X-8 Z-0.2 S1 then using the following code G1 X-200 S1 theby zeb00 - Ormerod
I am currently printing onto undiluted PVA glue. sticks like crazy the only problem is it sticks even better once the bed cools down soyou can have problems removing the print from the bedby zeb00 - Ormerod
QuoteT3P3 If the "display" class talked gcode only then all future displays could be easily implemented. This is what i had planned but with you guys working on it i can focus on some other projects. What i liked about using gcodes over the serial interface was that not only could future displays be easily implemented but displays designed to work with the duet could be used on other electronicby zeb00 - Ormerod
thought about it but I have something else planned for the Xby zeb00 - Ormerod
https://reprappro.com/documentation/ormerod-2/ i dont think this was there yesterdayby zeb00 - Ormerod
Quotejstck unless you have a very high-Tg epoxy, the hotend nozzle could damage it. yeah lucky i don't make a habit of running the hot end into the bed and leaving it there but something to watch out for i guessby zeb00 - Ormerod
unfortunately i am unsure of the origin of this plate so i did not have a datasheet for the resin. that being said the usual resin systems in the epoxy we use have a Tg far above what i will be using this at. And even then carbon fibre will generally return to its original shape once cooled even when deformed while at a temperature in its Tg range. I have tested this up to 80 degrees C and did noby zeb00 - Ormerod
Also check when you load slicer.ini that it sets your layer thickness to .25 and nozzle size to .5mm if it does not it may not be including the linked files and ypu will need to load each one out of there foldersby zeb00 - Ormerod
Had a sheet of 400x250 and cut it on a compound miter saw into 2 sheets of 250x200by zeb00 - Ormerod
Not sure you if you mean default slic3r setting or the ones on the ormerod github repo. because they are a great place to start if i remember corectly simple.ini was set up for .3mm and slic3r.ini loaded files out of the three directorys and was pretty good defaults for .5mmby zeb00 - Ormerod
Got it level to 0.05 on all points so printing with bed comp off. Surface was pretty slippy so put a coat of hairspray and gave it a quick rub with some 180grit seems to stick wellby zeb00 - Ormerod
QuoteMrCrispi Love the one-piece bed support - I haven't come across that before; how is it performing for you?... I'm thinking it might make a nice upgrade itself in conjunction with the triangular aluminium bed that many of us are now using... It works well just make sure you get your Orthogonal Axis Compensation correct as its a pretty tall print. I went away from the alu plate+PCB+ALU+Glasby zeb00 - Ormerod
Yes the thermal conductivity seems very good. heat is even and not lagging behind the heater by to much during warm up.by zeb00 - Ormerod
Just finished my cf bed upgrade using Vynz one piece bed support a couple of pieces of aluminium profile from the scrap box and a sheet of 5mm Carbon fibre. Ill write it up a bit better once I finish testing so just a Photo for nowby zeb00 - Ormerod
Hi Victhor Yes it looks to me that your bed is not level. As you said it would be best to get the bed as level as possible but even then you may need to turn on bed compensation. there is lots of ideas theory's and documentation on this but I found the following two the most helpful while getting started Bed Plane Compensation – setting by hand Even if you use a more automated method this is veby zeb00 - Ormerod
Quotebitfield Now, when the final layers of the whistle was printing I accessed the web interface from another client (my phone). First the page loaded fine and then it all froze and when I went to the printer to see what happened it was at a complete stop and inaccessible. Had to cut the power. It's not like it happens seldom but very often so I can't be the only one experience this, right? Asby zeb00 - Ormerod
Quotedc42 Partly inspired by a comments in another thread (thanks zeb00) Nothing says thank you quite like a free sampleby zeb00 - Ormerod
In an earlier firmware version i had a problem with print being stopped when i disconnected while using the "upload & print" button at the top of the page. for piece of mind I would suggest using the "SD upload Drop" on the g codes tab then once it is uploaded printing it from there. it will run with or without a browser connected and you can connect from different devices during the print.by zeb00 - Ormerod
out of interest did you decide which interface you will use to talk to the duet?by zeb00 - Ormerod