Have just tried sending M104 P1 S100; This changes the temp in the Active column but the current temp does not change and the actual head temp does not change. and the orange led on DC42's board goes on!by TH57 - Ormerod
As far as I am aware I am using the correct head - T1. As I say it all worked well last time I had it out of the box.by TH57 - Ormerod
I have just got my Ormerod 1 out of a box for the first time in a few months. It all worked well when I put it away. Plugged everything in and all seems to be working. I have checked all the connections are in. I can connect to the Web control, I can Home all axis and heat the bed. But When I try and heat the hot end it just sits there. I have homed all axis, Clicked the heater (t1) to activeby TH57 - Ormerod
I too have a slow hotend. Following advice from a previous post I think I need to do: M301 P10 S1.1 And perhaps reduce the S value if it overshoots a bit? My question: Do I put this command into my config file?by TH57 - Ormerod
Perfect. Thanks for that. Just about to try that Cura file again with the correct tool setting!by TH57 - Ormerod
Thanks for the FTP hint I have got FTP Commander I can connect to my Ormerod via its ip address but FTP is asking for a password even though I have not set one in Config. Is there a default password thet the Ormerod uses? or should I set one in config and try again?by TH57 - Ormerod
The head temp seems to be working again - I have checked the connections and they all seem OK. If it happens again I will give the 6pin connector another blast. Nothing was happening near the machine at the time to perhaps jiggle it or the connections but It might have been just one of those things. With Zombiepants new duet web control - do I just simply wipe what is currently in my www. directby TH57 - Ormerod
Just preparing to print something earlier, Bed reached correct temp and the head was almost there, when a strange thing happened. The head temp suddenly indicated -273. After an hour or so I have just rebooted my Omerod, all seems ok so far. It Homed and both bed and head are indicating temps as they heat up. But I thought I would look at the message log... "Unknown Poll State : B" showed repeby TH57 - Ormerod
Ah. I kept this simple, No software! An old 12v DC motor from ebay, powered from one of the 12v feeds from the Ormerod via a speed controller. The worm gear is jammed onto the drive shaft which turns an involute (I think thats what it is called) spur gear I had to partially design myself with a 35 tooth GT2 pulley sitting on top. That is driving a 60cm turntable with the equivalent of approx 100by TH57 - Ormerod
I use my Ormerod1 mainly for printing people, heads and full figure. Up to now I have scanned them manually using my Kinect scanner and ReconstructMe. This weekend I have built a turntable, cobbled together with bits I had in the shed and an old Mini wheel hub bearing. It is currently driven by a 194 cm length of open loop GT2 belt I joined with various glues and splicing. Works for a bit but eveby TH57 - Ormerod
I also use 5 point automatic bed levelling but still have issues that I think can be put down to the two Y axis bars not being parallel. I have subsequently used 4pt levelling ie without the final 5th centre point. But now just use 3pt levelling ie the two back corners and the front centre To be honest I havent noticed much if any difference in any of them, and my bed is not mechanically completby TH57 - Ormerod
I Just have a few moments while finishing a print and I thought I would share my experience of sticking prints to the glass print bed. I never had much luck with very clean glass or a layer of Kaptan but.. I can now reasonably confidently print PLA onto a bed with a thin "wipe" of PVA solution (perhaps a 1 pva to 5 water), but using a quick spray of L'Oreal Elnett Satin (ingredient vinyl neodecby TH57 - Ormerod
Thanks Guys. Like Kim I used Micro switches on the X and Y axis... and a 5mm drill bit for the Z axis. Worked for me! Having installed DC42's modulated IR sensor; the setup time is now seconds. And i can include the 5pt bed check within the same single homing click. Just in case the bed has moved overnight!! I will have a go at re-squaring my Ormerod to remove the need for Axis compensation. Pby TH57 - Ormerod
Ah I am glad you spotted that and happy to have helped. I look forward to the firmware update. With setting up the axis accurately Presumably Z axis v Y axis - Set-square and adjusting the holding screws at the bottom? X axis v Y axis - Somehow adjusting the roller bearing against the Z axis and perhaps shims in the connections by the X motor? Z axis v X axis - ?? This was my first build so theby TH57 - Ormerod
Further testing! With Orthogonal Compensation switched on (M556 S74 X-0.5 Y0.8 Z-0.6) Homing X with no Z movement; moves Y -0.005 everytime I Home X Homing Y with no Z movement; moves X -0.98 everytime I Home Y Homing Z with 10mm Z up and down moves X +1.94 and Y -2.62, The unexpected moves seem to happen at the point the relevant G92 command is given (but difficult to tell) My files are very sby TH57 - Ormerod
As a further note I have put Orthogonal Axis compensation back in and thought I would see what happened if I just raise Z I would have thought that X and Y would change as per the compensation. in line with what I am observing when I homeZ Nothing, no change in their values. Still experimentingby TH57 - Ormerod
Good call DC42 I take out M556 S74 X-0.5 Y0.8 Z-0.6; Orthoganal Axis Compensation reload config and all works perfectly, again and again. However This does pose a question Having booted up, which includes the Orthogonal Axis Comensation (M556) and the Bed Compensation Point, (M557's) Then run my HomeAll which includes a G32 at the end and leaves the head at X120.Y105 - but because it is also atby TH57 - Ormerod
Have installed DC42's IR sensor board and I am just taking the auto homing for a test drive! Instructions all very clear and installation simple Well done DC42, 5star feedback. When it comes to homing I am seeing some strange results. From a fresh restart with all head positions showing 0; When I home Y I can see/feel a very small movement in the X head, corresponding to the movement of the bedby TH57 - Ormerod
I started off using a thin PVA mix painted on thinly with a brush but I have now "moved on" to using a quick spray of L'Oreal Elnett Satin !!! Every five or so prints I respray. Just one thin pass. This has worked for me everytime. Apparently its actually any hair spray with vinyl neodecanoate coplymer.by TH57 - Ormerod