My Y axis makes a similar noise. I think belt tension has something to do with it as the noise has definitely got worse since I tensioned the belt.by jsv555 - Ormerod
Hi all Not sure if this is of any use to anyone but I've built a SketchUp model showing the basic arrangement of the Ormerod 2. It doesn't have all the bearings, wiring etc. but shows the arrangement of all the printed parts. I put it together to make sure any new parts I designed will fit. If you want it it can be downloaded from Thingiverse at Hope this is useful to someone.by jsv555 - Ormerod
I've bought a few of the LM12UU bearings off ebay etc. and they all differ slightly depending on manufacturer I think. I always use 21mm overall diameter in my models and it seems to be about right. Measuring a spare bearing I had to hand it measures 20.8mm. Hope this is of some help.by jsv555 - Ormerod
Thanks for all the advice. I will give all your suggestions a go. I'm currently using 1.09r-dc42 firmware at the minute so I will update that first. Printer is currently in pieces as I modify a few things so I will let you know how I get on in a few days time. Thanks againby jsv555 - Ormerod
Hi Darathy The only photo I have at the minute is this first layer test I did the other day to check the bed was level. It is a 100mm dia circle with another circle within it. This is using the bed compensation. As you can see there are gaps in the infill and holes all over the place. Without the bed compensation this was near perfect (typically I didn't photo this). I don't think light level iby jsv555 - Ormerod
Hi everyone. I've been printing without using the automatic bed levelling without issue. I decided to implement the auto bed compensation and it ruins my first layer. It looks like cottage cheese. Without compensation the first layer it is near perfect, even on large objects. I've checked all the probe locations and can't see any issue. I was really just interested to know what people think is thby jsv555 - Ormerod
Thanks for your help. I had wrongly assumed that there was some sideways element to the probe sensing as previously the only way the homing worked properly was with a piece of white insulation tape stuck vertically on the X arm near the Z upright. On looking closer I now see what triggers it. Not sure why the tape cured the issue before. Thanks againby jsv555 - Ormerod
If somebody could explain to me the procedure that is followed once the "home all " button is pressed it would be greatly appreciated. I'm trying a new print head arrangement and the carriage wants to keep going along the X-axis (toward Z upright) when homing. My new head arrangement moves the standard z-probe down and toward the Z upright compared to standard but I can't see what I have done tby jsv555 - Ormerod
Thanks for letting me know David. I have one of your Mini Differential IR boards that I plan to use eventually but I need to get the printer back up and running first.by jsv555 - Ormerod
Superb, thanks for your help. Everything works perfectly now.by jsv555 - Ormerod
Hi apologies if this has been covered anywhere else but how do I wire a standard Ormerod Z-probe to Duet 0.8.5 board.? If I understand it correctly the Z-probe was wired to AD14, AD12, +3V and GND on previous versions of the Duet. The 0.8.5 board has the seperate "PROBE" pins which are 3.3v, PC10,GND and AD12. Do I just ignore the PC10 pin and pick up the AD14 pin as before or how should I apprby jsv555 - Ormerod
Thanks dc42, sorry for slow response. As far as I can tell it is the stepper driver. Not sure why it has failed, motors and wiring all appear fine. I was going to change the board for a 0.8.5 anyway (want to run a second extruder and this seemed a neat solution). Thanks againby jsv555 - Ormerod
Firstly hello again to everyone, I've not been on here for a while and I'm a bit rusty on how everything works. About a year ago I was near rebuilding my Ormerod 2 and had replaced the Duet with a 0.6 board having accidentally destroyed the first Duet. I'd recommissioned everything and it all appeared to be working fine. I was then taken ill and had to sideline everything for the last year. I'by jsv555 - Ormerod
Nice job! I've been playing around with a heated enclosure that I was planning on running at about 30°C. Using a hair dryer to get to that temp and then relying on heated bed to maintain temperature with 2x100mm fans to regulate temp via a digital thermostat. My enclosure is a bit bigger than yours and made of PIR Insulation board but I found that you can get about 6°C temp difference between thby jsv555 - Ormerod
Hi all I had already looked at the thread but wasn't convinced by what it said. RRP have got back to me, The crimps are apparently PH200-TL crimps , so I shall be sourcing some from somewhere and getting on with making the extended looms. Thanks Jonby jsv555 - Ormerod
Hi Doug I'm not sure. I'm after the really tiny crimps that go into the motor housing that fits into the motor. They are an odd shape. I think I have some of the Molex crimps and a crimping tool. Thanks for your help. Jonby jsv555 - Ormerod
Hi Dan Thanks for the offer but dmould very kindly printed me the bottom Z bracket and I also got all replacement parts from RRP to cover me from having a similar incident (it will happen) Unfortunately both lower Z brackets split along a layer when I went to install, wasn't even pulling them up very tight. Have managed to bodge it though so should be good enough to get up and running again. Fby jsv555 - Ormerod
Great idea.As soon as I get my printer back up and running I am printing this first. I've had 2 of the original brackets split in the space of half an hour. Currently using a very bad bodge to fixby jsv555 - Ormerod
Nice analogy I guess what I was trying to say is if your nib is rubbish and dribbles ink everywhere you will end up in a mess Quotedmould Quotejsv555 Having played around with both nozzle sizes I decided that 0.5mm was my preferred nozzle. As stated the reduction in print speed compared with the marginal improvement in print quality didn't seem worth it to me. In my opinion you get a much betby jsv555 - Ormerod
Having played around with both nozzle sizes I decided that 0.5mm was my preferred nozzle. As stated the reduction in print speed compared with the marginal improvement in print quality didn't seem worth it to me. In my opinion you get a much better improvement in quality refining your print settings (bit of an art in itself) so that the correct amount of filament is being extruded than you do byby jsv555 - Ormerod
Hi Mick I never got around to writing any instructions, the mod was basically just a test that some people have picked up on. In short you will need an additional bearing, the same as the original idler bearing. I left the original in place to make sure the belt was still running in-line. You will also need a longer belt. I think it is about 60-75mm longer but not near my printer so can't checkby jsv555 - Ormerod
I've played around with both nozzle sizes. 0.3 does give you a more detailed print. I ended up getting a second assembled hot end just because it is easier to swap between the two. I found that the print probably takes about half as long again compared with the 0.5mm nozzle so a 3 hour print would take about 4.5 hours with the smaller nozzle.by jsv555 - Ormerod
Just thought I would add my thoughts on the Ormerod 2 which I bought last September. It is a great kit as far as I'm concerned. Printer is pretty straight forward to put together and doing so gives you a good understanding of how it all works. Any problems I've had have been of my own making and this forum is a great place to get advice if you do have any issues. Kit is pretty good straight out tby jsv555 - Ormerod
Decided I'm impatient so just ordered the parts from RRP. Thanks Jonby jsv555 - Ormerod
David If I can find someone to print them in ABS it would be brilliant. Thought I would try here before talking to Sally. Depends how patient I can be and how quickly I want to get back up and running again. Bit annoying as it was all starting to come together and the whole project was beginning to show some promise.by jsv555 - Ormerod
As an idiot I don't learn from my mistakes and have managed to melt some of the printed parts on my O2. Being a bigger idiot I didn't print replacement parts before starting this escapade Basically playing around trying to get the cooling system on my heated enclosure to work. What I didn't realise is that I had accidentally pulled the thermostat temp probe inside the insulation of the encloby jsv555 - Ormerod
Will sort tonight when I get homeby jsv555 - Ormerod
I assumed that was the case, 3 points always being level. My O2 is in bits everywhere at the minute and I can't decide how best to screw it down to the bench. Think I may just modify the bottom Z bracket and make some restraint brackets for the front 2 feet. I can find the stl file for my sprung idler bracket later if you want. It's not very pretty but it works. I also have the SketchUp file if tby jsv555 - Ormerod
Good idea Tomas. I've been looking at my O2 and think I have a similar issue with levelling. I've modified my Y-idler bracket to have a spring loaded tensioner but may have to include a similar mod to this bracket. I'm thinking of also making it have a base plate so that I can screw the printer down to the bench. Does anyone know how the O2 is supposed to sit? Mine appears to just balance on thby jsv555 - Ormerod
Quoteormerod168 Quotejsv555 Turns out achieving bed temp is slightly optimistic. At around 50 deg C everything becomes a lot more pliable than I would have liked. Sorry to hear about you melt down, I do not think you have to go that high with bed temperature in a controlled environment, hope you did not destroy too much so still able to print repair parts - well front running is a dirty job butby jsv555 - Ormerod