I printed it and installed it last week-end, I'm good to goby mat_fr - Ormerod
I couldn't place this one either, and as I learned recently that it was only a EMI certification issue I removed all the shielding that was getting in the way. I was wondering how you glued it in place, but hot glue seems a good way, I'll go for it (the firmware complains if the fan is on and the temperature doesn't rise fast enough).by mat_fr - Ormerod
I've finally managed to put a fan on the stock duct this week-end. As I changed the main hot end fan I was able to put the former one as a part fan (and hear its marvelous noise again, oh joy). I've tested this morning a print, it's really efficient on the part fans'side (X end side), a lot less on the other side indeed. I was able to print your fan duct also, so I'm now printing the matching spby mat_fr - Ormerod
Quotetrevmas There are two pips inside the cooling fan duct slot that need to locate into the holes on the fan spacer. I couldn't get the duct high enough till I realised some brute force was needed to get the duct on all the way. With a quickset nozzle you need to have the neck of the nozzle just on the edge of the cooling block to get the right height, but I think with the one piece nozzle if iby mat_fr - Ormerod
Blowing through a straw... good old low tech solution indeed As I previously said in another post I ended up printing the acrylic spacer for the hot end, so I should be able to add a second fan eventually (there was only one on the first Ormerod2) but from what I've seen the second fan mount ends up being lower than the nozzle so maybe something is wrong with the print, or the model, or my nozzlby mat_fr - Ormerod
Just as a follow up, once the z home set a little higher than usual I ended up with a pretty decent print, at least on the bottom side (this is with 0.20mm clearance I think) But this model has gears with a little hangover, like this one , and on the upper part the gears teeth shrink and go up, then ruin the print, ending up like this : I tried with PLA and PETG (the pictures are PETG), anby mat_fr - Ormerod
That all makes sense. Thank you again for all the time you spend responding to all my questions. I've learned much since hanging around.by mat_fr - Ormerod
Well, that's a thorough answer. I went through the extrusion calibration process according to the method of printing a single walled structure containing lines, straight angles and curves and measure the wall size at the top. It seemed good with a extrusion multiplier of 0.9. Seam position is set to aligned in slic3r. There is a clearance needed on layer 1, and maybe I've set the Z home too low,by mat_fr - Ormerod
Hi, I don't know if this forum is the right one to post this question, but as the parameters seem very machine dependent I suppose it's not so bad. I just downloaded a peristaltic pump openscad model, so basically a gears set enclosed and printed in place. My first 2 prints gave me rather disappointing results: the model came out OK, but gears were entirely stuck, melted together. I suppose I hby mat_fr - Ormerod
I had put the extruder on the first slot as well, I had noticed an improvement doing so at first. I now have the aluminum arm so it's pretty stable, I don't know if it's as important now. But the Z runner has to be tight. I had printed this spool holder but when the spool is too light it doesn't "stick", it gets off of the spool. I have some 608Z bearings so I'll give the design you gave a try.by mat_fr - Ormerod
Thanks for the diagnostic. The X belt seems tight enough. The Z runner was loose so the arm could move a little. I've fixed that. The Z axis rod is not absolutely straight though. It's not constrained at the top but I intended to print a Z Top piece to support a spool holder, which would include a hole for the Z screw. Maybe that's not such a good idea if I read you correctly. And the spool is dby mat_fr - Ormerod
Hi, Sorry I'm back with a smaller issue (way smaller, prints are OK) Quotedmould I have found that if you leave residual plastic cooking in the hotend without extruding for longer than a minute or two, you'll get a blocked nozzle soon afterwards, so be quick with the temperature measurement and never leave the hotend at temperature for long before extruding. Using a drill to unblock will workby mat_fr - Ormerod
In fact, the PSU I'm using right now is my former PC supply. It's given for 2x25A for 12V but it failed some time ago, the PC started but without display. I assume the 3.3V was to blame, but for the time being the 12V rail does the job. I just received the new one but I'll install it during the week-end I think, for now it's printing I'll consider buying a new heat bed also. Again, thank you alby mat_fr - Ormerod
I finally ordered the noctua. It's super silent, like frighteningly silent, but it's a bliss. Very happy about this. Thanks for the references.by mat_fr - Ormerod
Temporary setup. Behold! I present to you the Ormerod 2 Cthulhu edition (aka "don't do this at home, it will drive your wife crazy"). It's ugly but it seems to validate the root of my troubles were indeed the power supply. The heat bed LED is still unreliable, and the heat bed heats slower now as the ATX 12V is fixed, but apparently I have no problem right now. I'm printing the extruder gearby mat_fr - Ormerod
The main 12V power supply. The 5V switching power supply I haven't tested yet but I removed the linear one and switched the jumpers according to this subject (http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?340,705962) so I'll test it as soon as I have a new PSU. I suppose it all makes sense, indeed... I've ordered this one, mainly because it was deliverable tomorrow. Hope it will do: (french page but theby mat_fr - Ormerod
I unclogged the nozzle gently using a 0.5mm drill bit and the extrusion went OK. For a time. The next print showed deformations on the Y axis (missed steps?) and in the middle of it power went out. The fuse is OK, the Duet is alive went connected by USB, but the power supply is out No smell, no burnt part visible inside (I haven't opened it to see in detail), the capacitors where capped with aby mat_fr - Ormerod
OK now my extruder stalls Could the increase in voltage cause extruder malfunction? The controllers don't seem overheated, and the hot end temperature seems correct, though the fan runs faster. I imagine thermistor is read through a regulated 5V so increasing the power supply output should not change the reading... I changed the spool to PLA to see if I could extrude or if the nozzle was reallyby mat_fr - Ormerod
Let me see... 68°C measured by IR thermometer on the surface of the 7805. Maybe I should print directly on the regulator, that would stick OK, I might just enable the onboard switcher. No problem to be expected from the ripples? I might have a problem with the wires too short to reach the Duet screw terminal directly though.by mat_fr - Ormerod
Ok, I can understand that. Problem is, I run it with PWM set to 1 (didn't know if less was ok with heatbed) and when the LED goes dim it's pretty much OFF really, although the LED on the Duet is ON. But sometimes the bed LED turns back ON at full brightness. I increased the voltage to 13.5V, this time the tuning canceled because 110°C was reached (it was the limit I gave it). I don't know how hiby mat_fr - Ormerod
After changing the heatbed sensor connector and taking the duet out of its inclosure/adding some kapton tape and taking all back together (no more continuity between the case and the heatbed connectors, here are the new results: Heater 0 model: gain 76.9, time constant 440.9, dead time 8.4, max PWM 1.00, in use: yes, mode: PID Setpoint change: P121.8, I0.28, D716.5 Load change: P121.8, I7.25, D71by mat_fr - Ormerod
My power supply has a potentiometer to set it to the correct value. I've read about pushing it to 13.5V but I'm afraid the linear regulator wouldn't appreciate it too much (it is indeed relatively hot on normal operation). I can try this solution also. OK so now I have a bed that seems to heat correctly, the temperature is rising and correctly measured (it seems), the Duet LED is ON, the heatbedby mat_fr - Ormerod
It can reach 105 if I let him enough time (like 30mn or so, I never measured but it seems endless). I often select 110 in the preset list by mistake and it won't take any other command until the temperature is reached. Which it basically doesn't. Dead end. I can't say if this is new, I had never set it to more than 60 before trying ABS...by mat_fr - Ormerod
I hadn't done the tuning yet, I'm running it just now. Is the PWM intended for the heat bed or do I have to set it to 1? I suppose PWM is a good solution to reach a stabilized temperature but won't the rise going to be slower than ideal? I don't have a print cooling fan, just the hot end one, which is not controlled. Edit: results are Heater 0 model: gain 47.5, time constant 473.2, dead timeby mat_fr - Ormerod
Thanks, I'll try to print thatby mat_fr - Ormerod
Thanks for the reply Dave. Terminal blocks are pretty tight. Actually I saw the LED on the bed blink too quickly for a normal temperature regulation process (didn't think about looking at the Duet LED...) and then the LED went dim, barely visible. Naturally I thought it was a short circuit. Once the power cut I checked the continuity and saw that there was a non null (few hundreds of ohms, butby mat_fr - Ormerod
Hi, I keep going on trying to use my Ormerod 2. Trying to print ABS I started by printing the printer parts (and I was glad I saw this before printing other things because my nozzle mount failed pretty quickly. I was glad also to notice a subject mentioning the original parts on github, because I printed a few newer parts incompatible with my nozzle mount before noticing). I fixed a problem witby mat_fr - Ormerod
Hi, I think everything is in the title I have the first version of the Ormerod2, with only one fan, and I have a PLA filament that needs a "high" temperature to bond properly (190). Problem is, at that temperature corners are "squished" and I suppose it is due to the high temperature. I thought I would add a second fan, but problem is, I don't have the acrylic spacer, I the hotend mountings hasby mat_fr - Ormerod
Thanks I'll have a look at the mod.by mat_fr - Ormerod