Just to let you know I bought a sainsmart 7" LCD and it works perfectly with the Paneldue. This was the only 7" display I could find in the UK, as I didn't want to have import duty or wait for stuff from China. It cost about £36.88 in total and arrived in 4 days. I would like to ask if it's possible to adjust the brightness of the backlight on the LCD using the Paneldue firmware. I see some oby Mitch - Ormerod
In the industry, when done properly, modern belt systems can compete hand in hand will ball/leadscrews. To buy professional anti-backlash nuts, it's often well into the £100s just for the nut. Scanners/2d printers achieve accuracy through the use of optical encoders. This means they achieve accuracy regardless of the belts used. Ideally you would use a closed loop positioning system. A number oby Mitch - Ormerod
Possibly, as it's a modulated sensor, the brackets is the unmodulated (ambient) reading. That would possibly also explain if it was jumping about. But hopefully someone who wrote the code will answer for you *crosses fingers*by Mitch - Ormerod
You're welcome I have an almost complete cad model of the Ormerod 1, so if you're having trouble converting/finding some parts, I may be able to provide a solution. Misumi offer several 3d printer designs which it would be good to look at, and igus have several guides on how to design linear axis correctly. The correct way to do a linear axis is to have one fully constrained rod/bearing setupby Mitch - Ormerod
Dear Firefox3d One of the cheapest mods that should make your Ormerod more accurate, may be to replace the belts and pulleys with their GT2 equivalent. This means you won't get any rounding errors. Most objects I print and design are using the metric system, so I do find it a bit strange that the printer spends it's time microstepping to the closest imperial value. In reality, it's a small errorby Mitch - Ormerod
Dear Sindex Your reading of the PCB is correct. I've attached a color coded image which agrees with your findings, where Black is the GND/Negative and Red is positive, shown by the ground plane connections. Basically, the terminal on the left side of your image, which is the power input, has negative at the top, which is why the wire has a black stripe when wired correctly, as you have done.by Mitch - Ormerod
Dear Sindex You will need to install longer wires into your DuetX4, and attach them to the free screw terminals on the 5v Power Regulator PCB. I've been told that if these are not attached properly, the DuetX4 will try to draw the 12v power through the ribbon cable, which may damage parts of the boards. Please be cautious about which way around the positive and negative is on the terminals ofby Mitch - Ormerod
The holes for the Microswitch Switch on the X arm Motor Bracket are 9.5mm apart. The holes on the X carriage for the original IR sensor are 10mm Apart. This is from the Original Ormerod X carriage which I have taken the measurements from in the CAD file.by Mitch - Ormerod
I've also made a design to mount the mini IR Sensor. Please see: I've found that even with the Original Ormerod and Ormerod 2, the X homing tab works a lot better with some Tipex on it. I have been working in rooms with High Ambient Light, so I often found my printer would not home as there wasn't enough of a difference on the Modulated one. I have finally upgraded to DC42's Mini Height Sensby Mitch - Ormerod
We built a 3D printer with double the X Y dimensions (So 400x400x180mm). A rough estimate of the cost was about 1200 GBP. Main points are; You'll need a big heated bed. A place on Ebay sells 400x400 Silicon heater pads, which use mains and a thermocouple, so you can plug this into a cheap chinese temperature controller for a heated bed. RepRapWorld also sell their own borosilicate glass atby Mitch - Ormerod
Thank you very much Treito for designing a spring loaded one with push-fit couplings. I was worried that using a spring loader causes variable filament feed as there isn't a constant feed diameter. (So that feed variance is only due to filament diameter rather than where it sits on the hobbled bolt)by Mitch - Ormerod
For Christmas a relative of mine got an Ormerod 2 from Replikeo. It has the Quick-set hotend. The hotend parts looked great. The only thing that seemed a bit battered/dogy was the metal clamping block that holds the nozzles to the printer. Nonetheless it functioned fine. The original ormerod 2's from Replikeo used the standard nozzles but they have since changed to the quick-set hotends.by Mitch - Ormerod
Because of the added width of the hotend setup, the Z axis will probably have to be moved further along to maintain the print area. This will disrupt where the atx converter board is on the ormerod, and so I'll have to have a think about where to move all these parts.by Mitch - Ormerod
A while ago there was a post on reprappro website about a tricolour Blending nozzle, which I believe had water cooling and a motor to mix it... Anyhow I was just wondering if anyone had installed a diamond hotend on an Ormerod, as I've recently installed one of Dave's wonderful aluminium X-arms, so was wanting to make use of the added strength for 3 extruders For those of you who haven't seen iby Mitch - Ormerod
I would strongly recommend crimping especially when the cable is under repeated flex from movement. A crimp tool can be bought on ebay for around £20, and I'm sure it's come in handy for other projects. Item number 120933035908 Alternatively both Rapid and Farnell sell it Just Google RVFM HT-225D Ratchet Action Crimp Tool. This tool works with the molex kk series and the Dupont connectors useby Mitch - Ormerod