Show all posts by user

Re: 8mm vs 10mm - 6 years ago

Has anyone found NEMA17's with an integrated 10mm leadscrew? I see the 8mm ones everywhere but have not found a comparable 10mm setup to buy? Are there any major issues using couplers? I know TAZ does this on their z-axis with big leadscrews...

by atheimer - General

Re: Cannibalize one hobby printer to build a "set and forget" machine. - 6 years ago

Having the firmware level the bed is an interesting concept. I came across this yesterday looking at the Voron 2 vids (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wRdF0ZTIliY) which I think uses the DuetWifi. The Voron 2 looks kinda cool especially with the auto-leveling gantry but 4 motors and 4 belts for the z system scare me a bit... That said my confidence in using belts has increased thanks to this

by atheimer - Reprappers

Re: Cannibalize one hobby printer to build a "set and forget" machine. - 6 years ago

Thank you for the comments... good to hear the feedback on the linear guide system. - I agree with the leveling sensor: dc42's IR sensor is a no brainer (again using it on my p3steel for years now). The bed plate is one source of annoyance still. At this point I feel the bed should be non-adjustable and be fixed. Obviously don't see many machines with that design but the newer mesh level

by atheimer - Reprappers

Cannibalize one hobby printer to build a "set and forget" machine. - 6 years ago

I've built a number of 3d printers over the last 5 years and currently have a P3Steel and generic corexy in service. Both of these printers are "hobby-grade" meaning one is usually "in the shop" for fixes/upgrades. I now want to build a high-quality workhorse that is much more set-and-forget then my previous builds. The best 3d printer I've seen to date is the Taz5... but given I have enough q

by atheimer - Reprappers

Re: When homing, z bed moves down before going up, crashing into brackets - 6 years ago

I commented out the code block above and that fixed the issues when homing X and Y but Z will still try and go down before up so you also need to comment out: do_probe_raise(_Z_CLEARANCE_DEPLOY_PROBE); and the issue is fixed. While not ideal, I have not found a magical combination of config settings that make this work. The other solution is to add the endstop but I really don't want my Z ax

by atheimer - Firmware - Marlin

Re: When homing, z bed moves down before going up, crashing into brackets - 6 years ago

I just moved from Marlin 1.1.7 to 1.1.8 copying my settings over and while I never solved this problem on x.6 it seems it has gotten worse or "more unsolveable" on x.8. Going to try commenting out the C code as a final resort here.

by atheimer - Firmware - Marlin

Re: Marlin 1.1 Z-Homing to Probe lowers bed before raising. - 7 years ago

I have corrected this behavior but it does leave a bit of danger in the equation. While I understand what this is supposed to protect against IE keeping the printhead clear of the bed when homing this is problematic on my CoreXY where the bed(z-axis) rests at the bottom of the cube.. Hence when I issue G28 it tries to move lower to make room for the X homing cmd. For now these are all staying a

by atheimer - CoreXY Machines

Re: Marlin 1.1 Z-Homing to Probe lowers bed before raising. - 7 years ago

Thank you very much for your reply. A little more testing and it seems that when I issue a "Home X" command G28 X the bed goes down... I'm suspecting something related to the new "safe-homing" feature so I'll be digging through that.

by atheimer - CoreXY Machines

Marlin 1.1 Z-Homing to Probe lowers bed before raising. - 7 years ago

Hi Everyone, My CoreXY machine has been dormant for almost a year until this week when I brought her back to service. In the process I upgraded the Marlin Firmware to 1.1 and it appears there is a new Z-axis homing process. The new process should raise the bed up quickly until the probe is tripped, lower a bit then raise more slowly until probe trips, and then it lowers a bit. The problem I h

by atheimer - CoreXY Machines

Re: Duet Stopped Working after update 1.14 > 1.17e - 7 years ago

I updated to the 1.18beta firmware this morning and re-ran the autotune -this seems to be much less fussy than 1.17e. Here are the results: Warning: Heater 1 appears to be over-powered and a fire risk! If left on at full power, its temperature is predicted to reach 982C. Auto tune heater 1 completed in 275 sec Use M307 H1 to see the result, or M500 to save the result in config-override.g From

by atheimer - Ormerod

Re: Duet Stopped Working after update 1.14 > 1.17e - 7 years ago

For the numbers I have seen in the forums it appeared that way to me as well. It has been so long, I'm pretty sure I never touched that "dial" but that p/s is going on 5 years now and is the fan is quite loud these days so probably due for a check-up. I have never had any power issues on the printer so is it correct to set the PS to where it is outputting 12v and then tweak it up based on perfo

by atheimer - Ormerod

Re: Duet Stopped Working after update 1.14 > 1.17e - 7 years ago

I have 1.17e running ok... updated configs etc....but the autotune of the hotend keeps failing. I send: M303 H1 S260 The tune process starts but then I get: Auto tune of heater 1 with P=0.50 S=260.0 cancelled because temperature limit exceeded. Use lower P or higher S in m303 command. I tried sending M143 S280 thinking there is some hidden safety limit that I can't find but really have no clu

by atheimer - Ormerod

Duet Stopped Working after update 1.14 > 1.17e - 7 years ago

My Duet version 0.6 -based I3 has been running great for years but I needed to change the E3D v6 nozzle this afternoon and have run into issues and now the Duet won't boot. 1. I tried to increase my hotend temp to 285 to change the nozzle, Duet 1.14 reported hotend error ... started reading and it lead me to try and upgrade the firmware as there have been lots of improvements to the auto-tune et

by atheimer - Ormerod

Re: Smartrapcore alu build question - 8 years ago

I finally got around to mounting your new z-axis today, its really nice but I am having several issues I wonder if you have encountered solved? 1. It seems my motor is "skipping" trying to operate the system, is this normal? I was going to tweak the voltage but didn't have the + handy. 2. I read your Thingiverse comment about the belts staying on the top bearings and I no matter how much I twea

by atheimer - Smart_Rap

Re: Auto bed leveling help - 8 years ago

What is the issue you are running into? Here is what the relative lines from my config.h look like: #define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID #if ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID) #define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 40 #define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 170 #define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 40 #define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 140 #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE 10 // The Z probe minimum square sides

by atheimer - Smart_Rap

Re: Smartrapcore alu build question - 8 years ago

Mine actually cracked in half a couple weeks ago when I was replacing the belts and switching all the screws to m3's. I was lucky enough to secure it back together but forgot about it until now. Probably should re-print that myself.

by atheimer - Smart_Rap

Re: Smartrapcore alu build question - 8 years ago

Unrelated to our ALU project but I was wondering how you have your bed attached to the Y carriage on your i3? I've been having a heck of a time keeping mine solid IE in the middle of printing parts for your Z-axis last night it wiggled lose and messed the print up. Just curious what you found to work well. Right now I'm using the standard "spring" approach but I'd rather have something mor

by atheimer - Smart_Rap

Re: Smartrapcore alu build question - 8 years ago

Started the clean-up work on my printer this weekend since I was down swapping out the extruder. Thanks for the recommendation; I printed and installed your recommendation. Only thing I'm worried about is the M5 bolt holding the bearing in. Didn't seem all that secure. I've found a great deal of sanity (cable-mess-wise) printing a few of these clips: I think there are better but having 4

by atheimer - Smart_Rap

Re: Begginer question! Bed tilt problems! - 8 years ago

A couple of questions: - Are you using 3 point leveling? - Would you be able to upload a picture of your rig? There are lots of variables that could make bed leveling difficult. - I would suggest turning off or skipping the "auto-bed leveling" in my experience with my new Smartrapcore alu it hasn't helped much and this ensures you focus on fixing the real problem.

by atheimer - Smart_Rap

Re: Smartrapcore alu build question - 8 years ago

Been busy the last few weeks but finally back to printing after the latest round of upgrades. - Swapped out the original hotend for an E3D v6 Lite, the nozzle made a HUGE difference in print quality as you stated. - Swapped out the X and Y motors for better quality ones from Pololu really quiteted the machine down - as you stated - Changed and moved the x endstop up to accommodate the shorter

by atheimer - Smart_Rap

Re: Smartrapcore alu build question - 8 years ago

When you made your e3d groove mount holder (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1360019) did you actually switch your hotend to a real E3D? Just wondering if the stock mount will fit the E3D or I should print the replacement first. Thanks for adapting the Z axis, it looks great! Unfortunately I haven't had much time to work on the printer lately but hopefully in the next couple weeks. Cheers!

by atheimer - Smart_Rap

Re: Smartrapcore alu build question - 8 years ago

Just out of curiosity, what retraction distance and speed have you been most successful with? I've been happy with 4.5mm and 30mm/s but am wondering if its a bit too fast or too far? I'll play around just thought I'd ask.

by atheimer - Smart_Rap

Re: Custom Smartrapcore ALU - 8 years ago

Thanks for sharing your build! I'm looking at upgrading (and silencing) my ALU. It looks like you modified your idler and x carriage to account for the flanged bearings would you happen to have those files? If not what did you use for source files, the OnShape machine files? Machine looks great!

by atheimer - Smart_Rap

Re: Smartrapcore alu build question - 8 years ago

Lots of great updates. I downgraded to the stock LCD this weekend and it eliminated the stuttering print issue, so no graphics for me. I put about 10 hours of printing on my machine this weekend and its doing everything well -except bridges which is to be expected with no part fan. Your story about the hotend temperature is crazy, no I have not checked its accuracy but have not encountered

by atheimer - Smart_Rap

Re: Smartrapcore alu build question - 8 years ago

What got you thinking about a better board? I'm curious as I'm watching a print and it looks really "jerky". The printhead seems to pause for split seconds frequently and I'm wondering if it has to do with the RAMPS being under-powered? I shot a short video although you really have to watch closely to see the jumps, mostly around the 4,5,6,7s

by atheimer - Smart_Rap

Re: Smartrapcore alu build question - 8 years ago

My i3 runs on a Duet and I love it. Since day 1 it has been fantastic to work with plus dc42 is all over the place answering every question you could ever have. I have the Touch Panel & his IR modulated sensor on my i3 and its a nice setup. I do with the Duet could support the standard Marlin LCD's the touch screen is nice but mostly necessary.

by atheimer - Smart_Rap

Re: Smartrapcore alu build question - 8 years ago

That is huge, I guess that's why I wanted to build something out of ALU. You can just keep upgrading things with bigger/longer parts. I don't think there's anything notable over your last config other than some tweaking on bed points. I uploaded my most recent Config.h file to the atheimer branch of github if you want to check it out. Lots of calibration cubes mostly. I'm getting really annoy

by atheimer - Smart_Rap

Re: Smartrapcore alu build question - 8 years ago

A fairly successful weekend, still making lots of noise but the quality and precision is pretty dialed in. A couple of spindles for a filament holder: Still using the stock extruder, honestly it hasn't given me a reason to replace it yet -I ran several 2+ hour prints without any issues.

by atheimer - Smart_Rap

Re: Smartrapcore alu build question - 8 years ago

Got the printbite installed and boy is that nice! Here's a video of my machine in action... I think most of that noise is coming from the back pulleys but I'm going to wait a bit to tear all the belts and pulley's up.

by atheimer - Smart_Rap

Re: Smartrapcore alu build question - 8 years ago

That's crazy that we both did the same thing with respect to the board... well, I agree its annoying mostly. Printbite on the ALU mk3 bed worked great, I did have to lower the induction sensor a bit further but I'm getting reliable homes everywhere on the bed. Which pulleys did you find rubbing? the one's on the X carriage or the back corner ones?

by atheimer - Smart_Rap