Connecting DC42's Mini IR sensor Physical connections. I printed Treito's Sensor mount 1.1 and SensorPad mini sensor board (deflector) from I found the pictures a little hard to understand until I had printed my own, but then they make perfect sense. I used 2x M3 by 6mm to attach the new X deflector The old 2x M2 cap screws from the old IR board for the sensor mount, and 2x M2x6mm screws to mouby gwild - Ormerod
Configuration Heaters and bed temperature work perfectly. All stepper motors work, but I had to change the direction of the X motor by following the clear instructions. Z probe, according to if I want to use the four-wire IR probe, I need Mode 2. I needed to alter the position of the bed probing points and home positions. Otherwise, good.by gwild - Ormerod
Wiring. This part I'm slightly worried about, as I imagine I'll be doing a hybrid between the Ormerod 2 instructions and the Duet instructions. I am following the guides: Ormerod 2 Duet Power No problems, I just attached the daughter regulator board when I assembled the rest. Endstops X endstop. The Ormerod 2 uses the optical sensor as an endstop, so I'll shelve this for now Y endstop. The Oby gwild - Ormerod
Mechanical installation First, I need to remove the Duet 0.6. There are a lot of cables, and I assembled this a long time ago! Comparing the two boards, the power, SD card and other connections appear to be in the same place. I had to remove the whole metal case to get the Duet out- I'd forgotten what a palaver this is! Following the RepRapPro instructions I trial fitted the Duet Wifi into thby gwild - Ormerod
Hi all, I'm upgrading my Ormerod 2 528.2 from a Duet 0.6 to a Duet Wifi. I also hope to add the differential IR sensor. I'm upgrading because a) my Duet 0.6 has a fault that means it is not cable of using the web interface without crashing. I could fix this fault, but the effort to remove the board is sufficient for me to stick an upgraded board in b) I'm looking forward to quieter stepper motorby gwild - Ormerod
Hi all, I'm looking for a feature but can't find it, can anyone help: Sometimes my print can fail, for example the nozzle becoming caught on a curling overhang, and then the printer carries on the print but with the layers offset by a couple of centimetres. I'd like to be able to pause the printer, cut off the offset layers from the print, then 'rewind' the printing to continue from the layer wby gwild - Ormerod
Thanks all. After I recovered from my slight shock, I soldered on the wires and all seems ok for now. I'm very glad that the heated bed wasn't damaged, nor did my house burn down!by gwild - Ormerod
Hi dc42, You're right, I have the old style heated bed. Presumably the screws don't have enough surface area to transfer sufficient power? Can you suggest where I might obtain the newer version of the heated bed for the Ormerod 2? doesn't seem to carry them. thanks!by gwild - Ormerod
Hi all, A bit worrying- I turned the printer bed to 57 degrees, and smoke gently started curling from the left hand side power connection of the heated bed. Now there are black bits, and the solder is hot enough to flow if I poke it with tweezers. LED was still on. Underneath, the solder connector to the nut has gone very brown and burnt the tips of my fingers. Not good. Luckily I was around anby gwild - Ormerod
I have an Ormerod 2 with stock Duet board. I'd like to move this to somewhere there is no ethernet. But there is still Wifi. I was hoping to use a Raspberry Pi to make some kind of bridge between the wifi and the ethernet port on the 3D printer, but the Raspberry Pi forum people suggest that would not be possible. See my post But they do suggest using Octoprint to obtain controlling the Ormerodby gwild - Ormerod
Hi Erik, that looks a great mod of the Cobra cooler to make it fit Ormerod. Do you have the files you could share? What else is needed to make it fit? many thanksby gwild - Ormerod
I'm in Oxford, UK. I know somebody with a hot air soldering kit, but I'd be worried about asking as it looks tricky soldering. Which is the psy chip? Since realising the errors seem to stem from the web interface, I'm been setting up prints but then closing the Duet web tab in Firefox until the print is finished. Touch wood, I haven't had a reset since this change in protocol! Thanks.by gwild - Ormerod
Thanks for the suggestions, both. I tried remaking all the 12v connections. And moving to an entirely different network. But the board would still reset every couple of minutes, often even when trying to only auto-level the bed. Unusable! Each time now, M122 says Last software reset code: 0x6032, available RAM 1640 bytes (slot 0) Spinning module during software reset: Webserver So thinking theby gwild - Ormerod
Yes, I can confirm this is a longer-standing problem. Previously the last reset code was 'watchdog', not it is 'software'. Thanks.by gwild - Ormerod
Ahh, same problem! Quick recap of problem and environment: Problem: Printer stops mid print, and seems to reset itself- it loses the position, temperature settings, and forgets that it is doing a print. Environment: Printer powered from surge-prevention 4-gang extension, plugged into wall. Nothing else plugged into that socket. Printer communication by network cable to router to web interface USBby gwild - Ormerod
Thanks, I'll print and have a go mounting. Erik, what circular cooling duct are you using in your photo 'overhang_test4.JPG'? I've looked on but can't see it. It looks interesting- after I mounted a cooling fan, I can see the advantages for cooling from all directions. Thanksby gwild - Ormerod
Hello, Because I've been having problems with overhangs curling up, I'd like to add a cooling fan to my Ormerod 2, model 528.2 with the older 'one piece stainless steel nozzle'. I've printed the part 1123 cooling fan duct , but now realise I have no way to mount it to my device. In the instructions for the Quick-set hot end assembly , I saw that there is a part '741 Quick-set hot end fan spacerby gwild - Ormerod
On the suggestions here I've just installed a Noctua NF-A4x10. So easy to install, what an amazing difference it makes to the Ormerod 2. Thanks for suggesting.by gwild - Ormerod
DC42, now I know about changing the jumper, I did that and removed the USB cable. Thanks. I'm using the standard power supply that was supplied with the Ormerod 2. I can confirm that the printer reset does not always appear at the same point in the print. DMould, good point about surges. The resets have occured whilst nothing else was switched on, as far as I know- the only other thing in theby gwild - Ormerod
I moved the jumper from 5V_ATX_EN to 5V_EN, I was able to unplug my USB cable without the Duet powering off, and I was able to print for a whole 30 minutes I thought that solved the problem. But just as I was writing my thanks just now, it's just happened again! Disaster. The printer has reset itself mid-print. DC42, I'm not sure what you were guessing about USB power- I initially used USB fromby gwild - Ormerod
Sorry to resuscitate an old thread. I'm having a very similar problem: Printing as normal in a quiet empty room, then the printer will just stop- xyz motors stop, extruder stops. Hot end fan continues. Cooling fan on Fan0 stops. If I'm plugged into USB on my PC, I head the 'ding dong' USB unplugged noise. Web interface reports AJAX error, then reconnects. Print status, layer statistics, head posiby gwild - Ormerod
Thanks all for your kind help, I have now solved the problem! Ormerod168 had it spot on, somehow the support bearing was missingm from the extruder. Thus with any increase in force for extruding, the hobbed nut just spun. I'm not sure how the bearing got missed, but I was building the Ormerod with a friend so perhaps with each thought the other had put the bearing in. If only I had realised sooneby gwild - Ormerod
Hi all, I'm new to Repraps and 3D printing in general. I've just got an Ormerod 2, printed a few snowmen using the supplied white filament, and now it will just not print. I think there was excessive back pressure at the hot end, so the extruder often slipped and prints were very sparse- where there should have been solid layers, instead there would be a thin 'lattice' of printed filament or gaby gwild - Ormerod