Show all posts by user

Re: If you worry about filament fumes, this is what you can do - 8 years ago

Good idea! I was thinking of making a cabinet connected to a flexible tube with an electric motor at the end that goes out of a window (like the ones that have in pro or semi-pro kitchens), but I have to cut the glass and my wife won't let me :-( Do you think the carbon filter will block all the PLA micro-particles?

by kpapr1 - Ormerod

Re: Ormerod 2 problems - 8 years ago

Hi Dave, I think you are right, most probably the filament gradually starts melting too high. I thought initially that printing speed was too fast and that the nozzle was locally becoming cold and unable to melt the filament, but I tried printing at half speed and things got worse! I was printing at 210 degrees to compensate for low ambient temp, which proved to be a wrong approach. Lowering tem

by kpapr1 - Ormerod

Re: Ormerod 2 problems - 8 years ago

Hi, This is really embarrassing... Trying to print a 190mm x 190mm x20mm object, printing stops after a few layers like it always has when printing anything larger than snowman. It just won't extract any filament, although the motor still tries to... I don't know what to look for... if at that point where the printer stops extruding I stop printing, raise the nozzle (z-axis) and try to extrude

by kpapr1 - Ormerod

Re: Ormerod 2 problems - 8 years ago

Thank you both for your replies. It's good to know about the holes so that I'm not hunting ghosts :-) My retraction length is currently set to 2mm, I will play a bit with this and see if I can get any improvement. The most important thing is that now the printer works and I can play with the settings! The bad news are that the temp outside is about -1 degrees and the heating element is inadequa

by kpapr1 - Ormerod

Re: Ormerod 2 problems - 8 years ago

Thanks for letting me know, I begin to realize that many things in 3D printing are based on a trial-and-error approach!

by kpapr1 - Ormerod

Re: Ormerod 2 problems - 8 years ago

Hello again, Today I managed to print a 10x10x1 cm object and it went fairly well. I think I have to make some trial-and-error adjustment to make the print better and better. So, 2 last questions if I may: 1) at the point where the beginning and end of a circle come together there is always a bit more material (it looks like a bump), does this have to do with the retraction setting? 2) some ver

by kpapr1 - Ormerod

Re: Ormerod 2 problems - 8 years ago

Hi Erik, Yes, I did pick up the right time to print the snowman :-D Thanks for the tip, I will try again tomorrow and wait a bit more for the glass to heat up before I start printing. By the end of the year I will have a huge collection of snowmen :-P I will also try to print something different/bigger/taller and see how it will go.

by kpapr1 - Ormerod

Re: Ormerod 2 problems - 8 years ago

Hi Erik, I did the G92 Z0 thing and things got better! I think I'm on the right track now, thanks a lot for your help! Still not perfect but that's OK, it's really cold now (it's snowing) and the heating element can't increase temp to more than 10 degrees.

by kpapr1 - Ormerod

Re: Ormerod 2 problems - 8 years ago

Thanks Erik, I will try this and get back.

by kpapr1 - Ormerod

Re: Ormerod 2 problems - 8 years ago

I downloaded snowman's STL and used slic3r to generate the gcode. I checked that nozzle diameter was 0.5mm and filament 1.75. The result is better that the first one but it seems that it still needs a bit of work. Should I increase the extrusion factor from the web interface? Maybe set it to 115% ???

by kpapr1 - Ormerod

Re: Ormerod 2 problems - 8 years ago

Hi all, Thank you very much for your help! I will print the spring loaded extruder once I manage to make decent prints :-) I remember calibrating the extruder motor and looking at my config file it now reads M92 E431. Snowman is a ready-made gcode file, maybe I should download the STL and play with the slic3r settings? Or what else can I change to make a decent snowman print? My current filam

by kpapr1 - Ormerod

Re: Ormerod 2 problems - 8 years ago

Hi, I have changed to firmware 1.17 now. I used bed temp of 65 degrees and nozzle temp of 210, I also heated the room to around 15 degrees. I went back to zero and printed the snowman. I have attached 2 pics of it (from & back). Any thoughts would be welcome. I have also noticed that printing speed was slower that my other prints, so any recommendations on printing speed is welcome. I curre

by kpapr1 - Ormerod

Re: Ormerod 2 problems - 8 years ago

Thanks a lot for the info, if I get the printer to print decent I will invest on a spring loader. Can you please tell me where I can get it from? Thanks!

by kpapr1 - Ormerod

Re: Ormerod 2 problems - 8 years ago

Thanks a lot dc42. I will upgrade the firmware, reduce extruder motor current, increase nozzle temp + ambient temp and see how it goes. My config file says extruder motor current is 900mA, reduce this to 700mA say? I may not remember well, but I think that a new duet board was out some months ago and your newer firmwares (after 1.09) supported only that. So, is this the case or will your new 1.

by kpapr1 - Ormerod

Ormerod 2 problems - 8 years ago

Hi all and Merry Xmas! I've absent for quite some time, almost a year now. I had also abandoned my printer all this period but now I need to print some designs. To be honest, I never managed to make any decent prints despite all the time I spent last year calibrating and this was the main reason for stopping the 3D prints. After spending a few days reading my old posts to see where I left off, I

by kpapr1 - Ormerod

Re: New RepRapFirmware release 1.09r-dc42 - 9 years ago

This is my config.g file ; Ormerod 2 config file for dc42 Duet firmware M111 S0 ; Debug off M550 Pormerod2 ; Machine name (can be anything you like). With DHCP enabled connect to (example) (machine name with no spaces). M551 Preprap ; Machine password (currently not used) M540 P0xBE:0xEF:0xDE:0xAD:0xFE:0xED ; MAC Address ;M552 P0.0.0.0

by kpapr1 - Ormerod

Re: New RepRapFirmware release 1.09r-dc42 - 9 years ago

Are there any changes needed in the config.g going from dc42m to dc42r ?

by kpapr1 - Ormerod

Re: Filament slips - 9 years ago

Thanks Dave, my bed is level now and printing goes fine so far!

by kpapr1 - Ormerod

Re: Filament slips - 9 years ago

Hello again, I finally managed to print! I leveled the bed and it was off by some 3mm, I suppose bed compensation couldn't compensate for that much. I spent some time and got it to an accuracy of around 0.2mm. Now, I also do a bed compensation before I print and the printout doesn't stop and comes out nice! Thank you all for helping me out! I really appreciate it! :-)

by kpapr1 - Ormerod

Re: Filament slips - 9 years ago

So if I move the z-axis say 0.1mm or 0.2mm away from the glass but at the side of it and then move the head towards the middle of the glass, you say that at some point the nozzle will touch the glass? I will try this now. And if this happens is it solved using 5-point probing? If so I can remove a few kapton tape stripes and add a fifth piece of paper.

by kpapr1 - Ormerod

Re: Filament slips - 9 years ago

Like I said there's no bump, it may look like it in the pic but it's actually a very very small gap between the kapton tape. I use slic3r's default first layer value which is 200%

by kpapr1 - Ormerod

Re: Filament slips - 9 years ago

OK, this is my last print with the skirt.

by kpapr1 - Ormerod

Re: Filament slips - 9 years ago

My config.g ; Ormerod 2 config file for dc42 Duet firmware M111 S0 ; Debug off M550 Pormerod2 ; Machine name (can be anything you like). With DHCP enabled connect to (example) (machine name with no spaces). M551 Preprap ; Machine password (currently not used) M540 P0xBE:0xEF:0xDE:0xAD:0xFE:0xED ; MAC Address ;M552 P0.0.0.0

by kpapr1 - Ormerod

Re: Filament slips - 9 years ago

I use 4-point probing and I always include the skirt. I also use stock IR sensor. Also there's no bump on the glass maybe a small gap from the kapton tape but no overlap. I switched to 1.09m-dc42 now... same result... tried also without bed compensation... same result. I'm deeply disappointed as I don't understand what the problem is and every time I have to retract the filament clean everythin

by kpapr1 - Ormerod

Re: Filament slips - 9 years ago

I haven't tried without bed compensation, I will do so now and report back. I also remember of having a successful print of a volume knob (not very good quality at that time due to other problems) with stock firmware 1.09. So I will try without bed compensation and if that fails I will try another firmware, maybe 1.09m-dc42? But the coat hanger did print nicely with current firmware and bed comp

by kpapr1 - Ormerod

Re: Filament slips - 9 years ago

I re-calibrated the z-axis: I lowered the nozzle until it just touched the bed, then cleared the z-axis value, then lifted the z-axis until I got a reading of 606. This gave me a value of Z1.2 (from 1.5) and I put this value into the config.g I then tried to print the ormaxis but again failed on 1st or second layer. Then I tried to print one of my designs and it again failed on layer 2/3 or som

by kpapr1 - Ormerod

Re: Filament slips - 9 years ago

I'll do the same then :-)

by kpapr1 - Ormerod

Re: Filament slips - 9 years ago

The thing is that I followed the instructions: I placed a piece of paper under the nozzle and lowered the head until I could just pull the paper. Then I zeroed the Z-axis and increased the height until the IR sensor read around 600. This procedure gave me Z1.50 P606 but it seems it's not right. I also do an auto bed calibration before every print.

by kpapr1 - Ormerod

Re: Filament slips - 9 years ago

Great, thanks, so I will try G31 Z1.0 P606 and see if this makes things any better.

by kpapr1 - Ormerod

Re: Error reading files from SD card? - 9 years ago

The instructions state that when using the ethernet connection you have to use the external power - USB power will not do. USB power is not reliable as it depends on your computer USB port power capabilities. It might be enough - it might not.

by kpapr1 - Ormerod