That's good news. "I actually have one of these laying around, 300W, 12V, 25A, its not fanless, and the fan is pretty noisy Is a 300W psu really enough for Ormerod 1? Considering I got the printer with a 550W psu." I can strongly recommend switching to one of these supplies since your heated bed will warm up very much quicker. The one I am using also has a fan but is not noisy at all.by Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Thank you for your feedback Patrice. Sounds like you have a massive load on your plate and I wish you the best of luck and time in order to manage completing it. I am so glad that my Ormerod is still soldiering on quite nicely. But without all the aluminium upgrades I would have never gotten as far as I did. O yes and also the awesome support from all you fine folks here at the Ormerod forum.by Karoo Klong - Ormerod
That's cool. What business are you operating if I may ask?by Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Thanks for the explanation, I did indeed change from 231 to 235 degrees for the ABS and I am running print speeds as shown below. From the preview it seems that print speeds at the bolt holes are 1230mm/min and some spots up to 3420mm/min. .by Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Sorry I neglected to say that I am printing with ABS. So cooling is the one thing I should not do. I believe I need to somehow restrict the speed at those specific small perimiters but don't know how to do that or were to look for it.by Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Have you managed to resolve this issue yet?by Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Hi Guys I am hoping you can help me identify the settings that I need to change in order to rectify this problem. In general my print quality is quite good I think but I notice once printing small columns included in a print that I tend to get blobbing. I think it must have something to do with the minimum layer time but since this forms part of a larger layer that setting will probably not solby Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Still eagerly awaiting your conclusion of the build. It looks very excitingby Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Maybe this in some way is the true evolution of the Ormerod?by Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Quotecheeseandham That's not an Ormerod, They've taken the name, but that's about it. It is not made by RepRapPro, doesn't use a Duet, or indeed any recognisable parts from Ormerod 1 or 2. It's not even using the 3 point bed levelling. (Just 4 point bed bending) To me it looks like a lot of cantilever cartesians being built at that price point. Unimpressed. IMHO, WesBrooks Ormerod rework is thby Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Quoteauser I strongly suggest replacing the connector for the heater-cartridge. I did so using XT30 connectors (rated for 30 A). the rest of the connections I left alone (still using the old molex connector). Thank you I will look into that. I was highly considering removing the connector completely and just soldering them together.by Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Hi Gang. I came across this add today. Flsun 3D Z Ormerod Reprap 3D Printer Kit It looks quite minimalistic and similar to the TRONXY X1 However I think the TRONXY might just be more stable than this. Did any of you know about it? What are your thoughts?by Karoo Klong - Ormerod
After opening up the connector and flaring the terminals the printer worked fine for a week. Yesterday the heater fault came back. There has got to be a way to deal with these "hot connections". Any ideas? I am at the point where I am about to take off the stock print head and replace the whole thing, wiring and all with the E3D V6 Hot end that I purchased in December. I have been putting itby Karoo Klong - Ormerod
QuoteSardi Im still at firmware 1.17e/ web interface 1.15. Do yourself and your printer a favour and update to the latest firmware. The auto mesh bed leveling is the most amazing update ever and makes great printing adhesive a reality! Updates can also be done via the web interface now and no need for BOSSAC anymore Great work DC42 and everyone else involved! I only hope there was a way we cby Karoo Klong - Ormerod
I have the same errors popping up and noticed last night that the wires leading to the connector are also charred. I have already replaced the connector so I believe it must be as a result of the connectors not making 100% connection with each other. Both the wires are charred on my printer at the connector. I discussed it with Sardi in his post hereby Karoo Klong - Ormerod
And here is the exact problem I was talking about. Removing Crimps from Hotend Connector?by Karoo Klong - Ormerod
I must say that I really like your design and dedication to making the Ormerod evolve! Will you keep it a single supported X-Axis printer? I like te V-Slot idea. Does it not have too much play and show up in the prints as artifacting or ghosting?by Karoo Klong - Ormerod
How do you do the Autotune? Last night I inspected the printer again after it failed mid print on a 5 hour print. I reset the heater fault and resumed the print after fiddling with the wires a bit. It failed another two times. I noticed while fiddling with the wires where it connects above the print head. The connector on my printer is transparent and I saw a black dot inside. The wires are alsby Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Any further interests in designing an Ormerod 3?by Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Hi Sadri I have had exactly the same problem with my Ormerod 1 printer this past two weeks. On Friday I completely stripped the hot-end assembly and cleaned everything and checked the wire connections. I did notice that the heater cartridge sits rather loose however and the thermistor was not completely aligned to be in the centre of the heater block. I realigned the thermistor and pushed the heby Karoo Klong - Ormerod
That BambooMerod is so Cool!!by Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Turns out if you should not change your extrusion multiplier. You should correctly calibrate and adjust your E-steps.by Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Ok thats good to know. I noticed a significant change in the heat chamber temperature since printing on 115'c bed temperatre from 120'c. I will spend some time rebuilding the heat chamber in order to isolate the power suply and duet housing outside of the chamber.by Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Thank you very much for the reply guys. Hopefully I can still get hold of one and get to fiddle with it over the holidays.by Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Tomorrow will be my last chance at buying an E3D V6 hotend before going on holiday till next year mid January. I have been searching Youtube and the internet on any advice if I should change the stock hotend but I can't rally decide. I know there are some Ormerod users who have changed over to E3D but I don't see any reviews from them. I'm gonna spend some long hours with my printer and try to gby Karoo Klong - Ormerod
I think I will firstly try an Extrusion multiplier of (0.50/0.51) = 98%by Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Any advice will be appreciated.by Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Thank you. I was hoping for some tips on settings and extrudsion values. If you remove the standard duct and vent all the hot end cooling air to the top, how will this lack of cooling to the nozzle affect bridging?by Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Anyone still using KISS Slicer?by Karoo Klong - Experimental