Erik, It gave me very similar results on the walls as when I used the greatly increased retraction speed and a negative extra filament on restart. However the bottom layer was amazingly better. I tried a benchy, but it didn't go well. I'll need to do some additional tuning. Thanks!by ein - Ormerod
I am trying this right this very now. Thanks, Erik!by ein - Ormerod
I've printed the thin wall test several times, sliced by Slic3r with the config from the reprap github. Turns out I am getting extra filament at the beginning AND the end of the layer. Funny, right?? No. I've managed to reduce the amount of filament at beginning by putting -0.5mm extra filament at restart. I've reduced the amount of filament at the end of the layer by upping the retraction sby ein - Ormerod
Quoteormerod168 QuoteeinDo you think that changing that single setting (after me trying a lot of other things including temp, extrusion multiplier, etc that would indicate that I'm getting too much filament) would do the trick? The faults would be randomized instead of added on top but still be there I think you should start from scratch with a clean install of your slicer and the default settiby ein - Ormerod
Quoteormerod168 I think you should start from scratch with a clean install of your slicer and the default settings, then slice and print a small single wall model e.g. this from thingiverse: Single Wall Alignment Test Stop the print or cut the top of the model, 20mm is more than enough to check the print quality Start by measuring the single wall width, should be same as your extrusion widthby ein - Ormerod
I didn't try that setting, but I suspect I should have. There has to be some difference in addition to that though. This a couple of the results from the Slic3r code. Do you think that changing that single setting (after me trying a lot of other things including temp, extrusion multiplier, etc that would indicate that I'm getting too much filament) would do the trick?by ein - Ormerod
I tried both of those settings with little to no effect on the print. I only set the pressure advance to .1 and then .2. I did get a lot better results when using the Cura slicer. I'm going to keep using that for now. I printed another ring as a test yesterday and it turned out pretty clean. A few little blobs here and there, but I didn't really take any time to migrate any of the more detaiby ein - Ormerod
David, I fixed the homing issue yesterday afternoon. I had forgotten about your post suggesting to add another M574 code for the X axis. I've made a few test prints (bottom 10-12 layers of Benchy and a simple ring) and it seems I'm getting over extrusion at the beginning/end of a layer. So at the one vertical plane in the print, I am getting globbing. I adjusted the global extrusion rate downby ein - Ormerod
I've managed to get a couple of prints, but they are not of very good quality. Ongoing, causing issues: 1. Z axis driven gear wobbles - The bearing is, indeed, a 10mm outer diameter. I had a friend print a couple of iterations of the herringbone gears, but they are super tight and will lock up a lot. My current setup to compensate for the wobbling is to put some thick packing tape under the drby ein - Ormerod
Greetings, I recently acquired an Ormerod 1 that had never been turned on, let alone used for printing. David has kindly helped me work though the myriad of issues I've had with the firmware and now I'm trying to nail down some other bugs. First, it seems to home the X axis wherever it happens to be, so that seems to be an issue. If I either send the command or use the web interface the extrudby ein - Ormerod
Will do. Thanks for the suggestion.by ein - Duet
Thanks for all the assistance. I think I'm fairly close to being able to actually use the printer. It seems to home the X axis wherever it happens to be, so that seems to be an issue. The other thing I've seen is that the bed temperature sensor seems to lose connection. It goes from room temp to 2000 degrees. I touched the sensor wiring a couple of times and it will go in and out, so I'm gueby ein - Duet
Awesome, I actually put in the config.g by hand and got it to move. I'm glad there's a command for it. Thanks. I'm working to do the commissioning now. Should X0 Y0 be at the corner of the glass? When I home X, the probe is way off the bed so that when I try to home Z it never picks up the target under the glass as there is nothing there. I tried to do i manually with a piece of paper and thby ein - Duet
Mounting the SD card after powerup seems to be working I can list the files (only the gcodes dir) using M20. Also I've entered the network setup commands by hand and can get the web interface working. I am having two more issues and I'm not sure if they stem from not reading the SD card or not. I can't get any temperature output, nor can I home the axes (or move them at all). Is there a comby ein - Duet
I'm fairly certain that the board stayed on when I put the card in after startup though I was unable to see any of the files. I'll try again when I can.by ein - Duet
Thanks for the responses. I've tried the latest version released by RepRapPro and got the same issue. The networking was enabled when I tried it yesterday. It was set to 0.0.0.0. When I get back to it, I'll set a static IP and try it. For most of the time, I had the network cable disconnected. David, if I do have a faulty board, are there less expensive controllers that will work with an Orby ein - Duet
Good morning, Just yesterday I acquired an Ormerod 1 that had never been used, only assembled. I've updated to dc42's most recent RC3 firmware. I can confirm on my Ubuntu laptop that the firmware is loaded across the serial monitor. However, when I put in an SD card (I've tried two, sizes 32GB and 2GB ), I get a message from the Arduino IDE when starting the Serial Monitor that the port is unby ein - Duet