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RepRapPro's Ormerod http://reprap.org/wiki/Ormerod
Re: Locking belt to carriage - 9 years ago
Hi John Thanks for the feedback. Sorry you got a kit where they were not tight. I'll look into why this may be the case. For anyone else with this issue, you should be able to shim the belt; a small piece of folded up paper between the back of the belt and the printed part should work perfectly well. Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Fisher
Re: Which to buy - 9 years ago
Just to be clear, there is only dual nozzle support for the Ormerod. There are positions for three extuders on the X axis arm, but we only supply a hot end that can take two nozzles, not three. The Huxley Duo support two nozzles, too. The Fisher only supports one nozzle. The only printer we do with three (and possibly four) nozzles is the Mendel. Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Ormerod
Re: Locking belt to carriage - 9 years ago
sneaky_print, bluesign2k is quite right. Push the end of the belt from the top down through the carriage, engage the two ends of the belt together under the carriage, then push the carriage down over the join. The carriage slot tapers from underneath. The end of the belt should be pulled back through the carriage, as it's engaged with the end already coming through the carriage. If it is loose, yby droftarts - Fisher
Re: Modulated Z probe inconsistent - 9 years ago
dc42 - does your firmware fork use bed.g for bed levelling, or M557? Riz - the RRP v1.09 uses bed.g for homing, see: I'd also advise to use paper (self-adhesive address labels are easiest), rather than silver tape or white insulation tape; we've tried all of these, and paper is best. You can put these in the corners, under the Kapton tape, and they'll rarely get in the way of any print. Also seby droftarts - Ormerod
Re: Ormerod 1 software upgrade - 9 years ago
Here's what I send to people who have reported this problem (there have been a few): Some customers have had problems with hot end heating with the 1.09 firmware. The PID values (which control the heating) were changed with this firmware upate. Generally, this is okay - we tested in house, and didn't see any problems. But if there is something not working quite correctly, it can cause the heaterby droftarts - Ormerod
Re: Fisher Nozzle - 9 years ago
Hi ElectronicByte Email us on info@reprappro.com and we'll get you a quote. We can supply all the parts for the Fisher, but in the rush, we haven't got around to putting them on our store yet! They will be, along with other Fisher parts, when we get the time... Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Fisher
Re: Fisher SD image 210715 - 9 years ago
The reason we updated the bed levelling is because of an error that gets introduced by the way the bed is measured in the centre. There are three springs under each edge of the bed, closest to the towers. There's no problem checking the Z height close to the towers, but in the centre you have the pressure of all three springs to push down on, before one of the contacts breaks. It was causing an eby droftarts - Fisher
Re: Fisher USB connection? - 9 years ago
To run from USB, see the Duet commissioning instructions for Huxley/Mendel/Ormerod. You'll need to install the Arduino IDE (to install the device drivers): Then download our version of Pronterface: That should get you up and running. Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Fisher
Re: Delta printer without endstop switches - 9 years ago
I'm pretty sure this has been used before; I've been told that this is the way some 3D Systems' printers home their axes! Though it sounds a bit 'agricultural' to me... Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Delta Machines
Re: RepRapPro's new printer kit (off-topic) - 9 years ago
You're going to have to ask Mason for the original files, and what format they are in. Ask him in the Thingiverse comments. Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Fisher
Re: RepRapPro's new printer kit (off-topic) - 9 years ago
QuoteFpexAs response to OnShape (I think), autodesk has made Fusion360 Ultimate free for non commercial use including personal use or use for things not being sold. Not for 90 days, forever. That's really interesting! Finally found this post ( ) which links to this (see note in top right). Also, there's an FAQ explaining the difference between Fusion 360 and Fusion 360 Ultimate here: Looks lby droftarts - Fisher
Re: RepRapPro's new printer kit (off-topic) - 9 years ago
QuoteFpex If you need, send the step files to me and i try to convert them. Or make an account for Autodesk fusion360 that should allow to import step files. It is an amazing software to design stuff and free for maker and hobbyists, while profs like me need to pay for it. That's interesting. I've been playing around with OnShape ( ) recently; it's a full, online, cloud-based CAD environment -by droftarts - Fisher
Re: Ethernet connection - 9 years ago
Hi Jelle Sorry you're having problems with the ethernet connection. Please be aware that the instructions are in a 'first draft' state, for a beta machine, so information will be added over time. While we try to monitor the forums, we would greatly appreciate feedback is sent directly to us, to support@reprappro&#by droftarts - Fisher
Re: RepRapPro's new printer kit (off-topic) - 9 years ago
SolidWorks can import a step file (most CAD software can), but also has a feature recognition tool (there's an automatic and manual option, I think) which can create SolidWorks features, and make the part editable. Alternatively, find out from MasonStonehenge what the CAD software he uses is, maybe ask him for the original file so you can edit it. Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Fisher
Re: First printed project : Garden train Monorail - 9 years ago
Nice! Regarding smoothing, I don't think Acetone will work on PETG. It does work on ABS, but not on PLA (there are other chemicals for PLA, see ). I can't find any information on what may work with PETG - it seems like it is specifically designed to be inert! There may be something in the 'chemical recycling' part of this page: PETG hasn't yet taken off as a printing material for 3D printers,by droftarts - Fisher
Re: Ormerod 1 + Duet Shield - 9 years ago
Hi Sven The hot end fan is the one connected to the heatsink. This is the one that should be on ALL THE TIME, to keep the top of the nozzle cool. The cooling fan should probably be called the 'print cooling fan', as it cools the printed parts during printing, and is controllable using M106 ( ). Usually, this fan is controlled by the slicing software, so it turns on after the first couple of layby droftarts - Ormerod
Re: RepRapPro's new printer kit (off-topic) - 9 years ago
Quotedc42 As there is now a separate subforum for the Fisher at , I suggest we close this thread. PRZ, you may wish to use your experience to assist another user who has posted a couple of questions there. Hooray! My badgering finally paid off... I'll get the admins to move this post, and any others, to that sub-forum. Hopefully Fisher owners will still look in this forum too, with it's wealthby droftarts - Fisher
Re: Fisher sub-forum request - 9 years ago
Thanks, Viktor! Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Administration, Announcements, Policy
Re: Fisher sub-forum request - 9 years ago
Thanks Viktor There are already a few threads in the Delta forum about the Fisher. It would help me support people if these were in one place. Any idea how much more 'momentum' would be needed? Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Administration, Announcements, Policy
Re: RepRapPro's new printer kit (off-topic) - 9 years ago
Just a quick note about printing speed. On the Huxley, Mendel and Ormerod, we print at 40mm/s maximum. After this, frame stiffness and the weight of the axes start to cause problems, and backlash in the axes becomes more obvious. The Fisher has a nice, stiff frame, and the effector and carriages are much lighter, the weight is distributed around the axes evenly, and spread across three axes. Soby droftarts - Fisher
Re: RepRapPro's new printer kit (off-topic) - 9 years ago
PRZ - no, we're not going with a proprietary spool; the Fisher is designed as a small desktop printer, so we feel 0.5kg spool is the right size for it, and that's what we designed it for. If you're using 1kg spools, or even 2kg spools like we do in production, you wouldn't necessarily mount them on any machine. There is such a range of spools (diameter, width, central hole size), and such a varieby droftarts - Fisher
Re: RepRapPro's new printer kit (off-topic) - 9 years ago
QuoteFpex My understanding from the above feedback is that there some point worth changing in the design. The above feedback is from one person, printing materials that we do not specify for the Fisher. The Fisher is what it is; a cheap PLA printer. To get it working with other filament types, or at faster speeds (though we feel going too fast causes other problems, related to trying to move a lby droftarts - Fisher
Re: RepRapPro's new printer kit (off-topic) - 9 years ago
Quotedc42 Quotedroftarts I might even get to build one in the next couple of days! Ian, I don't see how your employer can reasonably expect you to support a printer kit that you haven't had the experience of building. He doesn't, that's why he's answering all the Fisher emails! But I'll take over, and rewrite the instructions in more approachable language (perhaps), once my 'training' is completby droftarts - Fisher
Re: RepRapPro's new printer kit (off-topic) - 9 years ago
There hasn't been a lot of feedback suggesting mechanical changes; mostly it's about documentation. I'm pretty sure the move from beta is only going to be minor changes and polishing up the configuration and instructions, with some work to the wiring, to make it CE compliant. There isn't that much we plan on changing, but have no timescale yet. Hopefully we'll start with Fisher '1'! There wasn'tby droftarts - Fisher
Re: RepRapPro's new printer kit (off-topic) - 9 years ago
Hi all! Thanks for all your efforts. We're getting lots of great feedback from Fisher beta owners, and we're working on improving the instructions and fine-tuning the configuration. We'll do a blog post in the next few days with updates. I might even get to build one in the next couple of days! Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Fisher
Re: Stuttering prints after upgrading pronterface to latest version. - 9 years ago
This is a Pronterface problem, rather than a Duet firmware problem; as dc42 says, it was fixed (with his code) a long time ago! I think you can turn the flow control in Pronterface off and on (any version, I think) by adding the following line to the .pronsolerc file: set clearNext 0 For Arduino AVR boards (eg 8 bit MEGA boards), this is set to '1'. Thanks for your update, richokarl. We keep meby droftarts - Ormerod
Re: Ormerod 1 software upgrade - 9 years ago
When you make such a big firmware jump, you really need to understand the changes that have been made to the firmware. Most of what's changed is covered by the messages above. To this, I'd add, read through the commissioning and calibration instructions again: This is what I tend to send to customers in a similar position: Firmware 1.0.9 introduces a few changes, specifically controlling the hby droftarts - Ormerod
Re: RepRapPro's new printer kit (off-topic) - 9 years ago
There's a few Fisher owners who have tweeted pictures on our twitter feed: One little problem; some people's prints are coming out mirrored! The instructions are wrong (hopefully fixed soon) for connecting up the motors. However, it's easily fixed; swap the X and Y axis motor and endstop wiring over. Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Fisher
Re: Did anyone buy Ormerod Dual-colour upgrade Kits - 9 years ago
Hi Treito It's because the 4-core shielded wire we get for motors, proximity probe and fan loom is only available in these colours. There is no version with a black wire. Generally, we do try and keep red for +ve and yellow for ground, but for some reason the probe got wired up in quite a strange way. And now we're stuck with it! Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Ormerod
Re: Did anyone buy Ormerod Dual-colour upgrade Kits - 9 years ago
I replied to ThorsenRune by email, with the following, which he suggested I posted here, as notes for Ormerod 1 owners upgrading to Dual: 1. Apart from the wires connected to the Duet Shield, leave the rest of your wiring connect to the Duet as per the original instructions: 2. You can fit the Duet Shield on the Ormerod 1, but you won't be able to fit the acrylic back cover on. You can print aby droftarts - Ormerod