Files for Fisher have now been released, here: Now can we have a forum? Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Administration, Announcements, Policy
I've asked for a new sub-forum: Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Fisher
Please can we have an Fisher sub-forum in Machine Variations? Posts about this are now appearing in the Ormerod forum: RepRapPro have launched this small Delta printer, and started shipping the first 100 orders. It is set to be open source, once we've tidied up the files. For more information, see: From our blog posts: and and Videos: Thanks! Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Administration, Announcements, Policy
An explanation of how tools are configured and enabled is here: Ian RepRapProby droftarts - Ormerod
Hi Treito I think you want the lasercut dxf files? The easiest versions to get hold of are here, which is the 'release' or 'tag' in the Github repository for the '528.0 to 528.4' version of Ormerod: These aren't the MOST up to date versions, but we haven't finished of exporting the dxfs from the latest version (528.5), which is the current repository: We use SolidWorks 2015 to design our prinby droftarts - Ormerod
See the troubleshooting guide here: and the three sections after it , and . Most likey: belt pulleys are loose on the X and/or Y motor shafts. Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Ormerod
The hot end will cut out if the temperature drops below -10C (which it does in the case of a disconnection) or if it goes above 300C (I think that's the current firmware setting). Anything between this is regarded as the working range. A fault that leaves the temperaure in this range is problematic; how is the firmware to know if the temperature change is normal or abnormal? There is now a 'heatby droftarts - Ormerod
I don't think this is a blown stepper driver. The print is far too consistent. When a stepper driver fails it moves very erratically, or not at all - it wouldn't print a part like your picture. What it looks like is a move in Z causes a move in the other axis. Are you using bed and/or orthogonal compensation (M556 S75 X0 Y0 Z0 in config.g)? If so, what are the numbers you are using? Post your whoby droftarts - Ormerod
Hi Rick This is almost certainly a mechanical issue. Most likely is either the belt is slipping, or the belt pulley is loose on the motor shaft (check the grub screw is tight). Increasing/decreasing the current has an effect, as the motor moves are more/less powerful, increasing/decreasing the amount of slip. For other possible causes, see: Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Ormerod
I think this is to with tool changes. On mutli-nozzle printers, you want each tool to wait for the target temperature to be reached when they are enabled. Otherwise, it will start printing with the next tool before it has heated up, or the previous tool has cooled down. The side effect of this is that, if you set a temperature, then enable the tool, the printer sits and waits for the temperatureby droftarts - Ormerod
A customer, Marco, sent me these two designs for shrouds around the Y motor pulley and extruder, to keep inquisitive little fingers out of harms way, and so avoid ruining prints! His comments: what do you think about these my two designs? they are very usefull to avoid baby fingers damage Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Ormerod
Quotewoo will fisher remain open source? Yes, it will be open source. Instructions are now developing, though still a work-in-progress: Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Fisher
When you turn the printer on, by default, no tool is selected. Send T0, and then that tool is selected. In normal operation, you cannot extrude if the temperature is under 160C; this is a safety measure, to stop damage to the extruder and hot end. You can override 'cold extrusion prevention' by sending M302 P1 (assuming you are using firmware version v1.09); this is explained in the commissioningby droftarts - General Mendel Topics
Also, check the extrusion width for any gcode you are generating in Slic3r. We usually set the extrusion widths the same as the nozzle diameter. It is set under the Slic3r settings in Slic3r > Print Settings > Advanced > Extrusion width. You should also be able to see the extrusion widths set in any gcode file; they're usually listed at the very beginning, and look like: ; external perby droftarts - Ormerod
How to determine if you have a 0.3mm or 0.5mm nozzle: All 0.3mm nozzles should have an extra groove around the main body. Resistor wire is usually around 0.5mm in diameter, but check with a pair of calipers first. A 100k hot end thermistor I happened to have kicking around was exactly 0.5mm, and fitted in very nicely! This may help clear the nozzle, if there is something stuck in the nozzle oriby droftarts - Ormerod
Wow, love it! Really good work, oyvinkg. I've sent you a PM (private message), but may as well ask here; would you be interested in doing a guest blog post for our website about your machine? Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Ormerod
Another thought... I think some people mentioned using 10mm of retraction. This is a lot, and is possibly pulling hot filament from the nozzle up higher. Our standard retraction is 3.5mm, which should be ample. Yella3D - I forgot to say, I think your extracted filament looks okay, ie not heat high up the nozzle. I think it's more likely the hot end isn't getting hot enough; either the heater bloby droftarts - Ormerod
Sorry if people are having problems with the Quickset nozzle, but we are unable to replicate similar blockage problems in-house. We do 15-hour prints to print the trays for the machines, and generally they are coming out better quality than ever. The only blockages we have had have been from contaminated filament. It can be difficult to determine the exact cause of a extrusion failure, but they gby droftarts - Ormerod
Hi Pavlos Adding T0 to your config.g may, or may not, help. It depends what tools numbers are specified! If you have updated your SD card with the SD Image supplied with the firmware (and you ALWAYS should use the same SD Image AND firmware version), the first hot end is defined as T0. However, if you are using your old config.g, the first hot end may be defined as T1. You need to understand howby droftarts - General Mendel Topics
I've posted it as an issue, here: Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Slic3r
After a bit of testing, the issue is with absolute/relative extrusion. Turning this on/off alters the behaviour. I sliced the same vase print twice, and the only thing that changed between them was setting extrusion in Slic3r > Printer Settings > General > Advanced > Use relative E distances. This is the example without relative extrusion: G1 Z1.495 X116.399 Y75.358 E50.15868 G1 Z1.4by droftarts - Slic3r
Hi jhlee1994 It looks to me like your filament diameter is set to 3mm, rather than 1.75m. Can you show us the slicing settings you are using? Upload the gcode file (zip it, as there is a 600KB limit), which should contain the settings. Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Ormerod
The original one-piece hot end that comes with most Ormerods should be capable of around 275C. It has a PTFE liner in it (PTFE maintains it's shape up to around 250C), but the hot end should be a little cooler in the area of the PTFE. It really depends on the cooling of the top of the nozzle working well. The new Quick-set nozzle is a bit different. While we don't describe the Quickset as 'all-mby droftarts - Ormerod
Hi shauna We've had a couple of people report this problem, since the v1.09 firmware update. The PID values (which control the heating) were changed. Generally, this is okay - we tested in house, and didn't see any problems. But if there is something not working quite correctly, it can cause the heater to take too long to heat up. It tends to hit the temperature about 10C below target quickly, tby droftarts - Ormerod
I've sliced an stl as a 'vase' print in a couple of different versions of Slic3r. In 1.1.7, the movement is correct, though there is extra gcode at each layer change (which should be ignored by the firmware movement planner, so shouldn't make any difference): ... G1 Z0.595 X124.973 Y115.982 E0.07168 G1 Z0.597 X123.205 Y118.456 E0.05926 G1 Z0.600 X121.755 Y120.144 E0.06806 M106 S255 G1 Z0.6 F9000by droftarts - Slic3r
Hi Christian Your hot end thermistor settings are getting garbled: Bed/extruder 0 beta: 3988.00 resistor: 4700.00 thermistor: 10000.00 inf: 0.02 Bed/extruder 1 beta: 4138.00 resistor: 4700.00 thermistor: 99999.91 inf: 0.09 Bed/extruder 2 beta: 2.20 resistor: 80.00 thermistor: 125.93 inf: 125.00 Bed/extruder 3 beta: 12.00 resistor: 2.20 thermistor: 83.29 inf: 80.00 I've updated the troublesby droftarts - General Mendel Topics
Update your firmware and SD-Image. The speed was set very low in the homex.g macro in v1.04. Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Huxley
Hi slackcub It's because you're printing directly from Pronterface, but using the wrong settings. Use the 'ormerod.cmd' start script; the mendel.sh is actually for our old version of the Mendel, using Melzi electronics. The way the Melzi and the Duet communicate is different (it's the serial flow control, I think), so the Duet ends up stuttering as you send the gcode. If you use the 'ormerod.cmdby droftarts - General Mendel Topics
Hi Harvey Yes. The pictures here show it connected: Thanks for pointing out that this isn't mentioned, I'll update the text to describe how the power should be connected. Ian RepRapPro tech supportby droftarts - Ormerod