dmould - well, they won't fit the Ormerod! I can't even work out what nozzle they are for... not J-head, which is one of the most popular. Did it come with any info? Ian RepRapPro tech supportby reprappro - Ormerod
Some quick feedback: There's a 'cooling' section in Slic3r, you can use this to slow down a print: You could try 'support' on this, too. See gcode visualised in 2D/3D, upload it to: You can also use Repetier host for this. The problem with lifting is that there's too much heat in the print. Probably best print multiple copies (like 4), so each one has time to cool before the next layer is puby reprappro - Ormerod
Hi Dave Interesting about the sensor readings, but it makes sense. Perhaps red, slightly opaque, plastic surrounding the sensor wasn't the best choice... We haven't noticed any particular problems with the green-plastic printers. We have quite a few other colours to try - I want a grey Ormerod! Any chance of a picture of your new printer?! Ian RepRapPro tech supportby reprappro - Ormerod
Hi Martin It sounds like a bit of a loose connection. Check through the wiring. Check that all the crimps are pushed into the crimp housings in the loom, and that the connections are tight on the ends of the thermistor. Ian RepRapProby reprappro - Ormerod
Hi Martin How are you powering the board? Low 5V voltage can cause various anomalies. See: If you're one of the first 220 Ormerod owners, see this: Ian RepRapPro tech supportby reprappro - Ormerod
@squags - You beat me to it... There are quite a few online tutorials for Netfabb. It's a very useful program. Ian RepRapPro tech supportby reprappro - Ormerod
Another problem we have just spotted... All Duet boards have been supplied with only two of the four USB lugs soldered. Some have been supplied with none of them soldered! This can make the USB connection electrically unstable, and makes it much easier to pull the USB socket off the board. Please carefully solder up all four pins. I'll be adding this to the documentation (along with the long-awaiby reprappro - Ormerod
David! Don't give up when you're so close! I think the Y belt is slipping in the slot under the bed, where the two ends of the belt interlock. It doesn't slip one way, because the end is in the upper slot, but can slip the other way. The fix is to first get the belt nice and tight, then put a cable tie around the two bits of the belt on the other side of the y-axis-rib, push it up against the riby reprappro - Ormerod
Great! Downloading the html rather than the raw file is easily done... Don't forget to update your SD card with the files from the SD-Image folder - you need to keep the two up-to-date together (firmware and SD card, that is). It's probably easiest to download the whole firmware .zip file each time, so you have all the parts, and no complication with 'Raw' files. Ian RepRapPro tech supportby reprappro - Ormerod
I use it for manipulation of stl files. You can see slices, but only the Pro version of Netfabb does the slicing that creates gcode, not the free version. Ultimaker used to use it for their printers, but I'm not sure if they still do. Ian RepRapPro tech supportby reprappro - Ormerod
The idea of adding ethernet and a control panel is that you can control the printer from your mobile device - we don't have any plans to add a display. However, SPI is enabled on the board - it controls the stepper drivers (so Adrian tells me). We think it's probably broken out to some pins, but you'll have to refer to the schematics. Ian RepRapPro tech supportby reprappro - Ormerod
Hi arnaud31, sorry you're having problems. Nothing much has changed in the networking part of the firmware, so I would tend not to think it's a firmware issue (I appreciate that's a very broad statement!) Try powering on, then resetting. This 'usually' reliably kicks the SD card into life, and load config.g. I can't remember if I did that with the card yesterday, but I might have. I might also hby reprappro - Ormerod
Hi Squags We've had a couple of reports of this behaviour, and we're trying to track down the problem. I finally have both a Windows 7 environment, as well as my usual Ubuntu. Hopefully you can help, by answering a few questions? 1. What operating system are you using? 2. How did you get the firmware file? Did you download it directly from Github? Did you download the 'RAW' version? If you don'tby reprappro - Ormerod
A wrap of Kapton tape around the bearing can give it a tighter hold, too. Ian RepRapPro tech supportby reprappro - Ormerod
ifala: All spare parts are available, if you email info at reprappro dot com we can sell you any part direct. We have taken the stock of spare parts off emakershop as we are just too busy with the Ormerod to sell extra spare parts. Ian RepRapPro tech supportby reprappro - Ormerod
Hi tim_h The one sat on my desk is like that! However, I measured the distance between the rods, and it was barely 0.1mm difference at each end. You're right, it's not pretty, and it is down to our (heavily overworked, under appreciated and probably under maintained, but still good enough) laser cutter, and the kerf it cuts (along with a small runout in alignment, probably). Your measurements mby reprappro - Ormerod
Hi victors Copy your gcode to the SD card and run it from there, not from Pronterface. It will improve your printing no end. The serial communication is not fast enough, so it's stopping and waiting for the next command after each move. It is something we plan on improving, and offering more options to get gcode onto the SD card, but we're busy fixing other things at the moment. Regarding yourby reprappro - Ormerod
Okay, rough fix. This is what I'm saying people who email me about this: I think you are using Windows 8? There seems to be an issue, that we only discovered yesterday, that the device drivers for the Arduino Due (and hence Duet) do no get installed. This is because the device certificate is out of date, and Windows 8 doesn't tell you! You can override this behaviour in Windows 7. You can checkby reprappro - Ormerod
There appear to be updated drivers for Windows 8 here: We're just trying them out now. Hopefully this means a new version of the Arduino IDE will be authored in the next couple of days. Ian RepRapPro tech supportby reprappro - Ormerod
Hi dc42. Now we have a contents list at the top of pages, I'll concatenate some of the sections (eg there are 3 heated bed sections that can go on one page). This should make that menu shorter, though instruction pages will end up longer. Ian RepRapPro tech supportby reprappro - Ormerod
Hi dc42, there IS a troubleshooting page - - but making it navigable was a problem, so I haven't added much to it, otherwise it was going to become completely unmanageable. However, we've updated it so it now has an (automatically generated) contents page (as do other pages now) so it's easier to point people at the correct section. I haven't looked at your document yet, but If you don't mind, Iby reprappro - Ormerod
Hi Alan I think that there doesn't need to be solder on the two holes under the SD card, but the lack of solder in other places indicative of other problems. In this case, the USB connector will fail, and the ethernet port may be unreliable. Please email me on support at reprappro dot com, with your name, address, telephone number and, if you have a red Ormerod, it's machine number from the cerby reprappro - Ormerod
Hi Alan The Duet *should* work with all SD cards. The supplied SD cards are not the fastest type, and appear to be quite unreliable. Are you sure the card is clicking in properly? However, it's possibly a board fault; we've had a few Duets with poor soldering on the USB connector, SD card holder and Ethernet port. If you look at the tabs of the USB connector (easiest to see with the board dismouby reprappro - Ormerod
@dc42: That sounds about right, as people seem to be struggling to print (extruding stops) at under 200C. Usually PLA prints in the 190 to 205C range, though I have had some that needs to be at 175C to produce good prints! We tend to use an IR thermometer to check bed temperature, but have to set up a multimeter with a thermocouple probe to read hot end temps, and even then getting a good contacby reprappro - Ormerod
It shouldn't be a problem with Ubuntu; I use 13.10. Ian RepRapPro tech supportby reprappro - Ormerod
We supply a 12V 20A power supply with our Mendel kits, very similar to the ones dc42 linked. One of Adrian's Ormerods has one of these PSUs, and he hasn't had any trouble with it dropping out. It's possible they are better regulated, with better capacitors, as they expect to have a variable load. However, they are a bit of a pain to wire up (see ), which is why we switched to ATX. Also, you canby reprappro - Ormerod
Quotedc42 Surely the bed is essentially supported at 3 points, with the two outer corners not really providing support? I'm tempted to remove those 2 screws completely. With the printing plate made of rigid glass, and the heater PCB being rigid too, I don't think it makes much sense to support it at more than 3 points. It is the MDF plywood ribs that keep the 3 support points stable relative to tby reprappro - Ormerod
Hi gregstah The main reason that the X axis can twist along it's length is if the screws through the x-motor-mount (check all 8) and the x-idler-end are loose. There will be always a chance this can twist, as while the parts are a close fit, the plastic is trying to hold a round rod; however, tightening the bolts will considerably tighten the rotation. The load on the x axis shouldn't cause it tby reprappro - Ormerod
Hi dc42 Sorry this has been difficult for you. I expect Eclipse works differently under Ubuntu (which is what Adrian uses) and I haven't had time to do this myself, either, to troubleshoot the problems. Hopefully you're sorted now. Hope you had a nice walk! Ian RepRapPro tech supportby reprappro - Ormerod
There's a good write-up of support material in the Slic3r manual: Ian RepRapPro tech supportby reprappro - Ormerod