Hi Markus, Agree IC soldering does not look good, but lead free solder can make it appear much worse than it is. I would wait for official feedback, but as an electronics engineer (but only with permission) I would attempt resolder using flux and solder wick/braid, but in this case I think you need a replacement board. The image of the connector pins look OK to me. In your IC picture the diodesby Treth - Ormerod
Thanks everyone for comments and reassurances on my questions. My Ormerod is now fully assembled, just need to find a jumper! @Ian, I found that I had to adjust the orientation of the heater thermistor to allow the cardboard heat insulator orientation to match the heater header pins, i.e. this did not match the orientation shown in the pictures at various stages. No big issue, but something wortby Treth - Ormerod
@Markus, thanks for the white tape tip, I shall do this on my system. Just wiring up the looms, so it will be awhile until I test it.by Treth - Ormerod
I'm getting there....... Connecting the wiring loom the picture see attached, shows motor "Motor X" plugged in the reverse to all the others - see colours of wires. I pressume this is an 'art' error? I'll look elswhere for comments. Just saw earlier post by Carnivalius December 07, 2013 07:27AM which shows image relating to the 3pin connector shell issue and this shows wiring as per art work!by Treth - Ormerod
@Ian I also only received 3 M4x16mm and 3 M4x8mm button head screws, also as labelled on the bag (bag 7/8). Kit #007. Found some M4 x 16mm caphead in my stock. No-one will notice the bright shiny silver finish inside the power box.by Treth - Ormerod
Hi Ray, From your comment on the Z axis position and the controller, I think you may have set the distance from the wrong end. On the web site they now specify it as a new dimension from the opposite end (if memory serves!) It may also be worth checking the wiring to the thermistor. The thermistor decreases in resistance with temperature increase, so an open circuit will be the coldest. I hopeby Treth - Ormerod
Just in case it is missed, for "Electronics" section you supply 3 off M4x16 button head screws for mounting the electronics and ATX enclosure with the T bolts, but instructions call for 4 off. No need to respond just correct it!by Treth - Ormerod
Hi Ian, thanks, yes the extra pictures and text looks most useful. I just discovered that clicking on a printed part name opens the STL viewer, most useful, but was not obvious to me during my build! I should 'click' more often! Regarding the parts list two minor edits required for the "X-axis mounting" components list. Z-bearing-clamp, quantity should be two. Z-gear not shown in any photo. I'mby Treth - Ormerod
One final question for the PCB enclosure. Do the M4 button head screws self tap into the top of black RS logo cover? And presumably I drill out the lower three holes to clear the M4 thread and allow rotation in the T slots? I'm also a lucky one who has to drill out the 4 holes on the PCB..... Over and out....by Treth - Ormerod
I have just done a check on my board and all the SM components and soldering appear OK, BUT the usb connector does not have any of the four mounting holes soldered!!! I can see right past the lugs and through the holes (x3.5 magnifier). All that is holding the connector I my board as far as I can see is the press fit of the lugs and the soldered connection. I've attached a low res and blured picby Treth - Ormerod
I may be loosing it and should take a break, but........ In the 'hot end assmbly it states "M3 x 16mm cap head screws Hardware 2" required to mount to the X arm, but photo shows counter sunk and the part has a countersink hole to mate with. Kit does not contain any countersunk screws of that size, but does contain the socket heads! Sorry if already reported, but web does not show any updates onby Treth - Ormerod
I may have just missed a step, but isn't the step where the "nozzle-mount" that has to be screwed onto the x-carriage missing from X-axis assembly?by Treth - Ormerod
Hi, I got my Ormerod fairly early #007, but had to wait for a time slot to start constructing, which may have been to my adantage! Started yesterday and after 5 hours got X, Y and Z completed and today started the extruder. A point to help others is I did not at first realise I could click a picture and make bigger than full screen! This helped enormously in identifying some of the parts and seeby Treth - Ormerod
Guess we don't often read product safety data! Supplier: NatureWorks LLC, 15305 Minntonka Blvd, Minnetonka, MN 55345 USA but that didn't get me any further....by Treth - General