Between readings I did some searching. Dmould it was your suggestions that triggered these thoughts! Day time test results. This is from Cornwall in SW England. The X axis is pointing East with French doors and windows to the side about 3m from the bed, so is quite open to sun light/sunrise, but the sun moves away from shining directly on the printer bed as it rises. Today is sunny! Time Reaby Treth - Ormerod
This post has been moved from KimBrowns post as I didn't want to 'corrupt the flow'. My area of exploration was could a physical shield be applied to the z height sensor to reduce the effects from stray ambient light. My initial investigations expanded to include the reflective target. This was initially done some time ago with some (ancient) black "flock paper #55" bits that I had laying aroby Treth - Ormerod
Yes I liked your data, it does get you thinking of options, I just wondered what triggered this test. From your answer, regarding the X axis, did you cover the lug with white tape? Those of us with red had issues and from your data green is even worse.by Treth - Ormerod
QuoteRadian @Treth - I understand what you mean about waiting before publishing. If you do get round to it though, I hope you put some photos in your topic. You prompted me to take the plunge! Unfortunately the holes for the z height sensor have become stripped/loose, so not sure how good my results will be. Initial results for stray light (night, hence dark outside), with 3 room incandescent 60by Treth - Ormerod
QuoteMr.Lupastr Black colour strong absorbing IR radiation, thereby IR sensor may have very small sensitivity. Spacing between IR probe and Lego has been cca 3mm. Here are results: colour: G31 code: Gray 203 Yellow 560 Black 33 Blue 440 Red 432 White 692 Green 370 Interesting results, but wby Treth - Ormerod
QuoteRadian Hi Kim, Interesting that you set the Z probe reference point to just 0.1mm above the bed... is this to reduce the ambient coming in from the sides? I suppose if the probe can be used to shadow itself it could help. If that's the case would it help to form a jacket around it? I did this some time ago with some (ancient) black "flock paper #55" bits that I had laying around from an oldby Treth - Ormerod
Hi DC 42, I would like a Kit 1 and a Kit 4 please. Yes, thanks for all the great work on this.by Treth - Ormerod
Quotekwikius QuoteTreth @DC42, Hi DC just for awareness if you post an item that is less than 100g and it includes a letter of any form to the person, you can send it normal letter airmail which is faster and cheaper than the parcel service. But it must include a letter! Well that's according to my Post Office. I'll have a vowel with mine then regards Andy LOL!by Treth - Ormerod
@DC42, Hi DC just for awareness if you post an item that is less than 100g and it includes a letter of any form to the person, you can send it normal letter airmail which is faster and cheaper than the parcel service. But it must include a letter! Well that's according to my Post Office.by Treth - Ormerod
I was using quite an old version (probably from end of last year), not sure of version as flashed the firmware yesterday, but when knocking the wire off,the heater would not turn on. Even after reconnecting it would not start heating until the DUET was reset. I only found this out after checking all the wiring back to the DUET. So certainly I can confirm the action of a disconnected thermistor unby Treth - Ormerod
Yes, fully populated board please. Thanksby Treth - Ormerod
QuoteRadian I ordered some JDY01.M05 as well but they're a bit sloppy on the original Z rod. With the original steel nut I couldn't measure any backlash at all but there's around 0.2mm with the new nut. This is measuring at the tip of the rod that hasn't been worn. Anyone else notice this? Hi Radian, yes I get a similar movement, but for me it is the same as I got with the original supplied steelby Treth - Ormerod
I haven't done PID tuning recently but did do lots of this in the past for temperature control and gas mixing control e.g. controlling O2 level in an O2+N mixture. Great fun, but very time consuming. I even developed and optimised my own controller methods, but found that these had been invented many years before me! The real pain that you are I believe identifying is you are wanting different Pby Treth - Ormerod
Hi Erik, nice solution which I thought I might try, but now have my aluminium sheet....... Your pictures did make me think..... Do you need to cut the MDF? Would you not get the same result with a three point mount as you are now using? Looking at my bed the corners both sag so I'm not sure they would have any impact if I only used the central heater mat screw as you are doing and ignore the oby Treth - Ormerod
I put a bit of tape on my contacts, just in case a mishap happened. The PSU, may or may not have short circuit protection but at the power levels and currents other things, wires, connectors, tracks could get hot and the short circuit itself will not be zero ohms and will get hot. I don't recommend a fuse, it's amazing the volts drop they can introduce at normal currents. I suggest a piece of eby Treth - Ormerod
Quoterm2014 The point I was making which is probably lost since not more than a handful of people read these posts ..... As far as I can tell the only benefit of this type of interface is if you want to network many printers, otherwise all other functions can be achieved elsewhere, ...... The subject does however seem to be a source of interest for you, and in consideration of an absentby Treth - Ormerod
Perhaps the bed itself should be made to match or more clearance provided to one of the connector slots. My slot (furthest from the Y axis microswitch) seems close to the IDC (assuming I have everything the correct way round!).by Treth - Ormerod
Quotedroftarts ...... I have to agree that I mostly look at my Ormerod from the side, and regard the side with the bed heater connections as the 'front', though! Ian RepRapPro tech support Agree! This is why I was also suggesting Tsessebe checks for the correct axis. It could simply be the contacts on the microswitch not making (or using the wrong pins) as someone else reported which couldby Treth - Ormerod
QuoteTsessebe Hi All & greetings from South Africa, I just finished building my Ormerod (1st 3D printer), and did the Commissioning... Everything when 100% except that the X axis does not move at all. If I connect the X axis stepper to the Y axis it moves... I checked and double checked all the connections, I tested the IR sensor and that seems to work, as I get different values as I moveby Treth - Ormerod
Quotearnaud31 What I did from the word go was to take a piece of main's rigid electric cable (2.5mm2 or 1.5mm2 can't remember), stripped the grey insulation to get the earth and live wires out and used them to connect both boards. It is solid core, no strands, and the wires are not flexible. No need to twist, less risk of it not being tight and because it is non flexible it doesn't sag and pull oby Treth - Ormerod
@kwikius, thanks for the feedback. @FalseIdle I bought a single 12" length for £1.63 from the supplier below. Not sure what the postage would be as I ordered with some other parts so it was £4 p&p It came nicely packaged with the rod against a piece of wood to prevent bending.by Treth - Ormerod
This was probably due to the connector clamping force being too low. It is a timely reminder to check that these terminal screws are tight as they can relax! It could also have been the soldered terminal pin on the PCB being slightly high resistance, but I would have expected the PCB to fail before the wire started to melt. You didn't mention solder on the power wires, so presume these were notby Treth - Ormerod
Got my repeat order from ebay supplier today and can confirm it is the same as the original supplied, i.e. hex rod approx 12.5mm long and M5 tapped, so should be good. The part (JDY01.M05) is available on ebay Let me know if anyone else tries these out.by Treth - Ormerod
Quoteormerod168 QuoteTreth ....a right hand thread one end and a left hand thread the other end.... If this is true then it must be a length adjusting nut - to adjust the total length of two rod with the nut in between, turn to one side, you pull them together, turn to the other side you push them apart Erik Thanks, definately not one of those, so in that case we have a supplier for a "longby Treth - Ormerod
QuoteTreth IMPORTANT I made enquiries with the ebay supplier but did not receive a response so followed up with NNC.... -----Original Message----- Sent: 31 January 2014 20:30 To: sales@nccsupplies.com Product Required: JDY01.M05 can you confirm this is a parallel thread and continuous from end toby Treth - Ormerod
IMPORTANT I made enquiries with the ebay supplier but did not receive a response so followed up with NNC.... -----Original Message----- Sent: 31 January 2014 20:30 To: sales@nccsupplies.com Product Required: JDY01.M05 can you confirm this is a parallel thread and continuous from end to end, i.e. hby Treth - Ormerod
Quotetru168 ... my problem here is, bottom MDF warped from time to time , I need to re-level it. Asia weather will warp the MDF faster. My X0 to X180 is 2.9mm !!! .... Still searching for local supplier who can help me to make an aluminium version, but no luck yet. my mini cnc can only milling PCB. I stop printing anything now until I can solve this problem. Have a look at by dc42, this excellby Treth - Ormerod
Quotetru168 I'm still searching for one. Seems unlikely to order because I'm in Asia, but good to know the keyword to search online. Thanks ! From the ebay link their postage price to rest of world is £3 which bumps up the cost! But do note my comment on the 'wrong description' in your searches. Just out of interest email sales at NCC Supplies who are probably the main UK agent, sometime if youby Treth - Ormerod
QuoteFalseIdle I searched eBay after reading the thread suggesting a longer brass z nut but failed to see one. Yep, same here, but I'll share a trick I use sometimes, search for say "brass M5 fitting" in Google, but look at the results that are returned as images and then go to original site from those. That's how I found this one.by Treth - Ormerod