I have found a supplier of a 12.5mm long brass M5 nut for the use on the z-axis. I haven't tried it in anger, but the fit seems good and it has about the same movement on the rod as the supplied nuts and brass nuts that I have tried. Note. before looking at the link, I believe it is described wrongly as it is NOT barbed, so is easily missed. Mine is a continuous thread so assumed tapped from oneby Treth - Ormerod
@DC42 and Rayhicks, Well (as always) you have both inspired and provided great feedback. Firstly I'm also impressed with the aluminium plate you produced dc42 and I shall definitely be going down that route now! As I typed my point 7 regarding the MDF, I thought "I have got this all wrong" and your post confirms this, I was really looking at "the minor issue" so thanks. The calculations on theby Treth - Ormerod
I have started constructing a new bed which I hope will address the flatness issue. Proposal 5mm float glass, but machined to be the top supporting surface. This will be assembled similar to the manual levelling assembly. The advantages of this method are:- 1. The top glass surface is fixed and this becomes the reference surface, i.e. not sitting on the aluminium heat spreader and clamped in thby Treth - Ormerod
I had a similar problem which I described as the extruder nozzle not low enough, so tackled from that perspective. My solution is to place 2 or 3 washers between the extruder metal mounting block and the heat insulator strip. This has worked well and I believe also provides an extra bit of insulation by introducing an air gap.by Treth - Ormerod
I like the idea of the LED illumination as well. I did try a 'bendy' LED Christmas gift, but it did not help much so haven't pursed further. One thing I will try when I get some time is an LED on the ali extrusion that is positioned to shine into the side/edge of the glass. This could give a light table effect in the area of the home position which might be useful or at least fun! I have alwaysby Treth - Ormerod
Well spotted, so the other warning is solder your USB connector shell as that probably has four unsoldered tags!by Treth - Ormerod
WOW! Amazing feat and quality, shows what can be achieved.by Treth - Ormerod
Great post arnaud31, thanks for sharing those pictures, mots impressive. My Ormerod is an early product #007 and I also did not have any issues during the build and it almost worked first time (without any setting up) via the USB and Pronterface. A clean and level bed was the solution so even from my early kit, the build was straight forward and functional. Anyone purchasing the product now get tby Treth - Ormerod
I'm new to this whole 3D area (CAD and printing) and I am learning DesignSpark Mechanical from RS. It seems very intuitive and flexible, so I can remember how to do things when I come back to the software. But I'm on the learning curve so no comment for gears etc., but as it's free, well worth giving it a try.by Treth - Ormerod
@dmould That ninjaflex looks amazing, I didn't even know it existed!!! Thanks for sharing.by Treth - Ormerod
Quote2. The harder install-multiple-parts-yourself release that contains the file printcore.py. I use this version, but agree it's not an easy route for those who like a simple install. Couldn't someone do a compile and have this as a temporary or beta version that can be simply downloaded and run?by Treth - Ormerod
Without access to a lathe, I have just tried new brass nuts, but with no visual differences! From my examination of the cog (looking from the top), the hole is asymmetrical to the nut faces. Also the new brass nuts are slightly looser, but I don't think that is an issue, however the nuts are sitting on a taper which is not perfectly printed (a small bump) and may add to the effect, however it isby Treth - Ormerod
This is on my "To do list", so yes very interested.by Treth - Ormerod
@DC42 that is a great improvement. One final consideration is the physical position of the sensor, how high above the extruder nozzle tip is the sensor face? Looking at the Vishay data the sensor linear distance range is 2.5mm to 4.5mm, so the sensor needs to be at least 2.5mm higher than the tip. Outside of this 2.5mm to 4.5mm range the ambient IR interference will not be compensated for corrby Treth - Ormerod
Wow! looks great, I was thinking of doing a Blacmerod, but might settle on blue!by Treth - Ormerod
Are the M5 nuts supplied with the Ormerod a 'half' nut? I noticed RS Components have M5 'full' nuts they also do stainless steel grade A2 at 1m lengths at £2.63 each, but the min order is 5 pieces. Good price for a meter though! I also found Macc Models supply M5 stainless steel grade A2 studding 12 inches long for £1.63, but no full nuts.by Treth - Ormerod
Have a look at this post for a discussion on PSU'sby Treth - Ormerod
I think everyone has removed that clip for this reason! I run my bed with the three remaining clips without problems, but I will follow the modified clip post (which I can't find!) where the top side is cut down to make it flat. You need a adapter to get it on the bed, but the design of this was also covered. There has also been some posts using glass picture frame clips which also look good.by Treth - Ormerod
Quotekwikius I'm not using the network interface, so why should I have to wait a minute after switching on? Good point! We don't actually tell the DUET we are not using the network interface so the current firmware seems to try and find it, hence the delay. My understanding is that if you plug in and connect the network lead, even if you don't plan to use it the process is speeded up.by Treth - Ormerod
@DC42 and Ray I have this issue and would like to resolve it. My threaded rod was bent on arrival but I straightened it so it was 'good'. A mechanical engineer friend said that this will be expected with standard threaded rod and nut manufacture. Question. " does it improve with larger diameter rods?" @Alan, droftarts strongly indicated the top of the rod should not be constrained in another poby Treth - Ormerod
With my build and everything square and aligned on #007, but I still had this issue. Quotedroftarts - You can put a couple of extra washers between the mdf spacer and aluminium cooling block, if you are still having problems. Solved this perfectly, and I believe also gives improved thermal insulation due to the air gap, but this may be insignificant compared to the route throgh the scres, but cerby Treth - Ormerod
If you try printing on glass, try both sides as they are different. One has a minuscule amount of tin present from the float process. This does affect the wetting which can some times be observed with clean glass and a droplet water, or the professional method is short range UV where you see fluorescence on one side, from the tin I believe. BUT a print test will be the quickest!by Treth - Ormerod
@DC42, this all looks promising but with lots of optimising required. The following is just a thought, and probably not an appreciated one, but way back in time, well last month did you not suggest a small uC on the sensor board? You could then have complete control of the whole modulation process and signal handling (and noise?). It also is less appealing for ongoing user development, enhancemby Treth - Ormerod
QuoteRory166 Hi All Just had a breakthrough. There is a 3.3V sense wire (brown) disconnect this from 3.3 V in Ormerod power board and feed from 12 v via potential divider. No need to open PSU case. R1 220R R2 82R will hopefully be low enough impedance to feed 3.3v feedback. Values quickly calculated to give 12.15V at Power board. Rory This could be what we are looking for! Just for inforby Treth - Ormerod
@Dave_Longdown, I did the washer mod as well, which I believe also helps with further heat isolation due to the air gap. I am going to print this part in ABS with a thermal insulator top and bottom, plus the washers for my build.by Treth - Ormerod
Thanks for sharing, nice prints and modifications.by Treth - Ormerod
Thank you for posting this. I have replied to bump it up the list again! Thanksby Treth - Ormerod
@Markus, this must be firmware surely? What else could stop at exactly the same point. Sounds like an array, count limit, memory limit.... Print looks good to that point though!by Treth - Ormerod
In my opinion 'no'. The issues are with stray ambient IR from other light sources, with the whole bed covered it could increase the angle of light getting to the sensor and make matters worse. Interesting this did make me think of an improvement that could be tried, use the white tape as a reflector as now advised, but if a ring of an IR absorbing material was placed around this it could help. Sby Treth - Ormerod