I downloaded your file and when I click "Create link in message" the following text appears. I have changed the square brackets [ ] as I assume it will just insert the picture! (open square bracket)attachment 24058 100_1796.JPG(close square bracket) and the actual text: perhaps there is a forum Q&A somewhere?by Treth - Ormerod
QuoteRory166 It would seem from your figures that the Ormorod just fails to provide the minimum load required. However it is a 550W ATX so may have different specs. Rory Yes unfortunately, 450W was the highest spec'd part I could find in any doc. The V1.3 is very different. The minimum currents were the same for the range 220 to 450W but you are correct "what happens outside that range"? A Leby Treth - Ormerod
This post is getting long so apologies if I missed something. The switching transients at switch off are obviously a concern on long term reliability. There is an interesting post here:- I used to work in switch mode PSU design back in the 80's when things didn't switch fast and worked just above 20kHz if you were lucky! From memory and from recent reading this spike will eventually cause faiby Treth - Ormerod
@dmould, that looks good, thanks for sharing. I too will be using DesignSpark Mechanical so thanks for supplying the source doc. re insert image. After you have attached the file a box/button appears next to the attachments name "create link in message"by Treth - Ormerod
Google "Power Supply Design Guide for Desktop Platform Form Factors Intel 1.2" and this returns a useful document (probably based on an EN standard?) This Intel doc gives the following minimum loads: Note that there is also a minimum rating for the 12V supplies, not sure what the Ormerods consumption is with the heaters off.by Treth - Ormerod
Quotechriscain I saw this post on a blog about a Mendal 90 The interesting bit for PSU info is that the PSU used in this kit looks the same as the Ormerod one and it says "I also changed the PSU to an ATX500 because I can buy them in the UK with CE approval and they come with integral mains inlet and switch, obviating the need for the kit builder to do their own mains wiring. It is also shorby Treth - Ormerod
@Simon, these do look good, hope they pass the test of time.by Treth - Ormerod
@iamburny Looks good, thanks for sharing. I have my electronics in the same location, just using two "T" bolts on the far end. Kevinby Treth - Ormerod
Hi Mike, Guess I'm in a different camp, but respect your views, I also worked in proof of concept, prototypes and small productions, but I was amazed at what was in the box for the price! The controller board with stepper motor drivers alone is £100+ Then there is the 4 stepper motors, pre-assembled wiring looms, heater plate. hot end parts laser cut parts metal guides and extrusions PSU and allby Treth - Ormerod
Just a thought on this fan backwash issue, but will a louvred vent work on an input to a fan? I'm "thinking out loud" and not an expert here, but would a smooth 45 degree 'pipe bend' be better as it sucking from higher up and more remote from the sensitive area. The louvre effect will obviously have an effect, but thinking of the local air motion a short distance from this plate will it have aby Treth - Ormerod
As I haven't had time to continue exploring actual printing I thought I would plan for the future..... I find fan noise excessive, both the extruder and PSU fans are loud and full on all the time. Looking at the ATX spec I noted that control of the fan is a manufacturers option, but not implemented by many, however I did find some 'quiet PSU's' that control their fan based on an internal temperaby Treth - Ormerod
You should also investigate DesignSpark Mechanical from RS Components . I'm new to it, but it seems very intuitive. It is apparently a special version from SpaceClaim and has some limitations compared to their commercial products, but it seems a complete solution for 3D printing and totally free.by Treth - Ormerod
@gregstah I wondered about this as well, but MDF is quite good on the count of lightness and heat insulation. I also thought it was quite stable against moisture due to the resin in the product. Plastics are not good when heated, but 60 to 70C may not be a problem. Metals would not be good regarding the heater insulation inssue, so I could not think what would be better than mdf. Float glass gluby Treth - Ormerod
@DC42, thanks for comments and I agree with you. My thoughts were that increasing the +5V is a way of getting a small benefit to help actively removing any supply spikes and noise, since when a regulator drops out of regulation it also lets noise through.by Treth - Ormerod
QuoteI am sorry to say that in my over inflated egotistical opinion this picture is worth a thousand words in terms of RRP's engineering design. Have you ever seen a sensor cable split to go both ways round a motor shaft and sprocket? Can't say I have, wonder why that is? This is to keep it simple, nothing to do with RRP's skills. I wonder how many of us have 'improved' this bit, or have left itby Treth - Ormerod
@DC42 Good tips, thanks for sharing. Can't wait to have my display of printed parts (when time permits!).by Treth - Ormerod
Hi Ormerod276, Yes agree, with file downloads, I often seem to have trouble actually finding the download option. Hopefully one of our experts will advise. QuoteIn a similar vein I've loaded the standard fare of software/firmware and whilst Arduino appears in my start list and as a icon on desktop I have to run slic3r and pronterface.exe everytime which doesn't seem right. All I did was downloadby Treth - Ormerod
Just another thought on the power supply arrangement. Facts: With 5V feeding the VDO 3.3V supply the operation is marginal. This is more critical with USB power due to the typically lower "5V" supplied, but for 3D printing we need the ATX supply as this is when the issues are typically observed Examining the circuit diagram the +5V is supplied via the switching circuit from the 12V input. Theby Treth - Ormerod
@Rorry166 and Ormerod168, I like your proposals. I was planning to duplicate the mdf heat insulator and make a sandwich across the printed parts as suggested, i.e with clearance around the screws in the printed part. This plan came about due to the fan not operating with my original build (and the instructions at that time not making this clear that it is always on, or should be!) and I nearlyby Treth - Ormerod
Regarding the z axis drive check that the gear on the motor shaft is the correct way round i.e. flat surface to the top. If it is the other way round the motor stalls. Note in the original instructions the gear was shown with the wrong orientation. It should be easy to rotate by hand (power off). I have not yet connected via the network, there are many posts discussing this, but for commissioninby Treth - Ormerod
@Jon Steward Have a look at droftarts post here From memory as it does not install, but runs directly deleting files was a simple issue. I think that there are multiply operating systems supported that it requires the delete step.by Treth - Ormerod
Great summary Markus. I have all these issues as described, but cannot get network link to function so cannot confirm that 'bit'. My firmware may be one version behind the above, but in all other aspects, I have the same arrangement and issues.by Treth - Ormerod
QuoteIan @Treth: If the Z homing is too variable, due to ambient light or some other issue, that's a problem, because consistency is what we're striving for, especially for the first layer. We'll be looking at improving the proximity sensor in the New Year. But yes, move the Z axis to the correct height, and set G92 Z0. The bed compensation should still be working - remember to load it before staby Treth - Ormerod
@DC42 and everyone, great post, I'm learning a lot without trying! Thanks.by Treth - Ormerod
Quotebobc It is always disappointing to see Open Source companies so quickly abandon their principles in order to protect their profits. I'm nothing to do with RepRap other than a happy customer. I believe this is a great open source example, with excellent documentation and product details. I'm sure I could replicate it if I felt inclined and could add my own features if I wished to, so there iby Treth - Ormerod
@new-3D and Ian Quoteeg setting G31 Z1.8 P656 means that is moves the Z axis down until the proximity sensor reads 656, and sets Z to 1.8mm, then moves down 1.8mm to Z=0. This is the homing sequence. If you haven't set these parameters, re-read the 'Setting the Z Probe' section of the 'Axis Compensation' instructions. ... I have the opposite issue. With say the G31 Z1.8 P656 command in my configby Treth - Ormerod
I have no connections with any of the following companies, links are just to illustrate products. Has anyone looked at any of these options? Most probably available from a car parts shop. many other size options. look good but no dimensions! There are also 'spire clips' which appear a too tight as standard for our requirements and cable clips which may be suitable. Anyone got a good scraby Treth - Ormerod
@Astute, In anticipation of possible problems and planning to do some development I contacted RepRap some time ago and Sally Bower sent this (extract) email to me: QuoteWe normally sell our spares through eMAKERshop......, We aren't currently selling spares for the Ormerod, although some items used in our Huxley and Mendel kits are also in the Ormerod kits. We have the hot end kits for our Mendelby Treth - Ormerod
Timing! I was just about to ask this! I didn't want to reverse the feed while the extruder was hot (although some printing models seem to do it) as I could end up with a melted filament in the tube causing problems later. I assume you cannot reverse with the extruder cold, so at the moment presuming you need to cut the filament and feed in the next colour, but that seems wasteful.by Treth - Ormerod