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RepRapPro's Ormerod http://reprap.org/wiki/Ormerod
Re: Prerequisites for printing? - 10 years ago
@Dave At 200C, gentle pressure on the filament is enough to extrude. With the motors off, I can turn the big extruder cog to extrude - but the force is not the same. Implication that the two cogs are not perfectly matched all the way round. I shall investigate. @Ray All the motor connectors look OK at the Duet. @dc42 I am happy that there is not a blockage (I had previously run Ian's unblockinby GregL - Ormerod
Re: Prerequisites for printing? - 10 years ago
Still have the same problem on trying to print the Ormaxis - extruder stutters. Although set at 205, the hot end was mostly around the 201.5 region. Should I: 1. Set the hot end higher still 2. Increase the amps on the extruder motor (if so how?) 3. take the hot end apart and re-assemble Greg PS firmware was and still is 057aby GregL - Ormerod
Re: Slic3r Help Please - 10 years ago
@dc42 'under Windows you can right click on pronterface.py in Explorer, click "Open with"' I did a right click, and sent pronterface.py to the Desktop When I click on the Descktop icon Pronterface is up and running in no time. I assume .py got assigned to python.exe when it was installed. Anyway, it is now a one click solution Gregby GregL - Ormerod
Re: Prerequisites for printing? - 10 years ago
Ran Ian's 'unblocking' routine -except it refused to extrude at a set temp of 200. At 205, I could extrude 10mm, then retract once the temp. came down to 100. No obvious debris to be spotted. Maybe I need to run it at +5C over normal settings. One potential problem just spotted when monitoring bed and hot end temps at ambient temperature. Bed seems rock solid at 21.7, but the extruder is erraticby GregL - Ormerod
Re: Prerequisites for printing? - 10 years ago
Just trying my first print - Ormaxis Concerned that the extruder will sit chattering, when it should clearly be extruding along a long run. I have to help it turn. What to do? Gregby GregL - Ormerod
Re: Help Please (Trying to Commission the Printer) - 10 years ago
Just trying the ethernet connection - without much success. Connected the cable, and green LED comes on at the Duet, light comes on at the router. Router says no device connected, and ping 192.168.1.14 yields zilch If my router is on 192.168.0.1, should the Duet gateway be that - ie change the 1 to a 0 Should I also change the Duet IP address to be 192.168.0.14 ? Gregby GregL - Ormerod
Re: Heated bed wiring - 10 years ago
Oops! Seems like I miscounted the pins from the right - it was in the tenth, rather than the ninth. In response to G31, I now get something like: 972 when over the white painted Xend stop tab, and 91 in mid-air. Just trying the X homing - it stops when half the tab is ciovered. It could travel another 6mm before hitting anything. So not a dud board, rather a dud builder! Gregby GregL - Ormerod
Re: Heated bed wiring - 10 years ago
Tried turning on the IR sensor with M558 P1 Then took a number of G31 readings in mid-air and over my nicely white painted X homing tab. Result: random numbers between 324 and 344 Covering everything with a cloth (to remove daylight), reduced the random numbers to between 298 and 300 Looking like a dud sensor board Gregby GregL - Ormerod
Re: Heated bed wiring - 10 years ago
Thanks dc42, Correct connection on the Y end stop has solved the Y home problem. I have white paint on the tab for the X home. Cannot see where G31 is explained in the Commisioning process. Gregby GregL - Ormerod
Re: Heated bed wiring - 10 years ago
Thanks to you all, the guys at RepRapPro and particulary Ian. I finally finished the wiring today, and commenced the commisioning. Hot end up to 200 (it seemed to stop at 197 ie never went over the 200). Bed up to 45. X,Y and Z all move 5mm and back again. None of the homing worked correctly!! Z homing just ran into the bed, and eventually unscrewed the threaded rod out of the Z gear The Y stopby GregL - Ormerod
Re: Commissioning - cannot talk to Due - 10 years ago
@Ian reprappro Another problem we have just spotted... All Duet boards have been supplied with only two of the four USB lugs soldered. Some have been supplied with none of them soldered! This can make the USB connection electrically unstable, and makes it much easier to pull the USB socket off the board. Please carefully solder up all four pins. I'll be adding this to the documentation (along witby GregL - Ormerod
Re: Newbie with a problem - can't get bed to heat up at all 
- 10 years ago
@Ian measure the resistance between the two vias in the top left of the Duet, marked 'BED_TEMP' I have an anxiety that the battery in the multimeter means that there is a potential problem dabbing its probes on the circuit board; could it do damage? is there a right way and a wrong way to apply the probes? Gregby GregL - Ormerod
Re: PLA filament question - 10 years ago
I believe that a handful of rice grains will do as well as the silica gel. Instead of refresh, just use them in cooking!by GregL - Ormerod
Re: PLA filament question - 10 years ago
I got this sample set from Ooznest Not yet tried (as printer not finished yet), but dimensions are good and the price for 1Kg spools isn't bad.by GregL - Ormerod
Re: How much does it weigh? - 10 years ago
Ian, My delivery note from RS claims 7.6 Kg Gregby GregL - Ormerod
Re: Heated bed wiring - 10 years ago
Thanks for all your helpful suggestions. When I feel brave enough, I'll have another go. Gregby GregL - Ormerod
Re: Printing layers in 60 microns - success - 10 years ago
Regarding potential backlash in the Z gears: It looks as though the threaded rod could be relocated to come up through a new hole in the X axis rib - directly above the Z motor spindle, so enabling a direct drive (no backlash). It looks to me resiting the threaded rod would not foul anything, and cause no restrictions on movements. Thoughts? Gregby GregL - Ormerod
Re: Z drive firmware issue - 10 years ago
@dc42 On my machine, the brass end to the Bowden tube has about 1mm slack in vertical movement where it goes into the extruder - it is not held tightly by the tongue. I guess this will affect the extraction process. An improved tongue might be in order. Gregby GregL - Ormerod
Heated bed wiring - 10 years ago
I look with envy at all you who are printing away.... I have just reached the heated bed wiring - and a big problem. At the age of 70, my eyesite and dexteritiy are not what they used to be. Crimping and inserting the wires into the two pin connector for the thermistor has defeated me. So the question is: will soldered connections withstand the heated bed temperatures, and what two pin connectorby GregL - Ormerod
Re: "S" Axis.... Hot end Rocking - SOLVED... I hope.... - 10 years ago
Just received my replacement X axis and rib. I had hoped to get Mk 3 with the new Z nut trap, but it is one with the nut trap still in the rib. Feels more substantial, and this was confirmed by measuring the thickness. The nominal 5mm is mostly in the region 4.9mm to 4.95mm, whereas the old 'S bend' version was down to 4.4mm in places. New one is nice and straight. Now for the wiring ....by GregL - Ormerod
Re: Extruder tongue loose fit. - 10 years ago
I agree the tongue is quite loose on my machine too. It also fails to hold the brass tube firmly in position. I can move it vertically about 1mm, which surely has implications when trying to extract the filament Gregby GregL - Ormerod
Re: questions about building - lnear bearings oil? and glue x-axis acrylic? - 10 years ago
I thought of using some Graphite lock lubricant, which I got from Maplin Gregby GregL - Ormerod
Re: Y-axis behaviour - 10 years ago
With my Y axis, the two belt ends hold each other securely. The problem is that the Y axis rib does not grip on the two belt ends. In one direction (away from the motor), the belt loop stops relative movement by tightening up. It is when the table is pulled towards the motor that everything slips through the wood. We need to increase the friction between the wood and the outsides of the belt -by GregL - Ormerod
Re: RepRapPro Ormerod - 10 years ago
With the Y axis cross ways in front of you, its feet are 350mm apart The foot at the bottom of the Z axis is 190mm back from the Y axis feet. The cantilever X axis projects about 155mm in front of those feet - towards you, and the X axis motor projects about 40mm back from the Z axis foot The Y axis motor projects about 55mm to the left. and its belt pulley about 20mm to the right of the Y axis fby GregL - Ormerod