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RepRapPro's Ormerod http://reprap.org/wiki/Ormerod
Re: Laser cut Aluminium X-Arm & Rib kits.... - 8 years ago
Dave, for me every product on your website comes up with " No products were found matching your selection." both on Chrome and Firefox?by Radian - Ormerod
Re: Upgraded printer parts - 8 years ago
Perfect! I'm slowly finding my way around again - hopefully will stop acting like a noob soon.by Radian - Ormerod
Re: Upgraded printer parts - 8 years ago
Quotezombiepantslol Original O1 parts can be found here: But there's also a wiki page with plenty of upgraded parts here: Thanks, that's great - the wiki looks super-useful.by Radian - Ormerod
Re: Upgraded printer parts - 8 years ago
It's only the nozzle mount separated from the hot metal by a piece of MDF. The X-carriage it fits to seems fine. I am only printing PLA but Iv'e briefly taken the hot end up to ABS printing temps while developing the Z probe. There may have been the odd accident where the Fan stopped during a print which would make it overheat though. The cap head screws securing the nozzle have partly pulled thby Radian - Ormerod
Re: It's been a while - sigh - 8 years ago
PID scale 1.1 didn't make any noticeable difference. 2 did though! I think there's just not enough juice coming out the ATX supply so I'm swapping over to a 13.8V 25A PSU next. Anyway, I finally got my print done thanks to everyone's help here.. It's for a repair job on the broken salad drawer in our fridgeby Radian - Ormerod
Upgraded printer parts - 8 years ago
My hot end support seems to have gone into melt-down. I'm still running with all original Ormerod 1 parts (apart from my capacitive Z probe) but I'm sure in the last year and a bit plenty of improved part designs have come out - only problem is finding the best ones (finding anything on these forums is hard enough). Any kind sole(s) here care to point to any "must have" upgraded part designs orby Radian - Ormerod
Re: It's been a while - sigh - 8 years ago
11V at the heater wires - which is about as good as can be expected given the 11.2V on the main PCB. The issue is clearly marginal, as I just managed to get a print started without changing anything. The starting temperature may be making all the difference. This is how it looks - once it turns the corner it takes too long to reach the target. When I took the screenshot it had just started to pby Radian - Ormerod
Re: It's been a while - sigh - 8 years ago
Ah, Dave, thanks for your tips - I didn't read them until I submitted my last post. I will have a look at changing the PID settings. Edit:: I'm getting 11.2V with both heaters on so not clever but not much different than last time I measured things.by Radian - Ormerod
Re: It's been a while - sigh - 8 years ago
David, it seems to me as though the PID parameters are holding back the hot-end temperature such that it takes ages to reach the set point. Aiming for 190, It gets to 185 in 90 secs. but doesn't reach 190 until well after 3 mins.by Radian - Ormerod
Re: It's been a while - sigh - 8 years ago
OK, I will have a go at increasing the "gain" to increase the SNR. I keep looking at that unshielded inductor and plotting its removal.... But now I'm getting the error: "Heating fault on heater 1, T = 187.3 C; still not at temperature 190.0 after 150.356766 seconds" as an example - the temperature is still slowly climbing, and it happens again and again at around this point. I assume this is yby Radian - Ormerod
Re: It's been a while - sigh - 8 years ago
As soon as I wrote that I remembered I have a LED on my probe that fires at Z=0 threshold. After compensation and stepping X I can see that deviation in Z from my bed is less than +/-0.1mm across the axis (I've been trying all day to print a long thin object in that axis). The curling must be another adhesion issue. Looking at the base of the failed prints it looks rather open so there's less cby Radian - Ormerod
Re: It's been a while - sigh - 8 years ago
OK, it's beginning to come back to me. Amazing how unfamiliar this stuff looks after a year away from it all. Unfortunately I think my bed has warped as I'm getting lots of curling. I've tried bed leveling compensation and it's helped a bit but still not enough to prevent lifting. Bother. Let me just check I'm doing it right... In config I specify four corners using M557 and then issue G32 befby Radian - Ormerod
Re: It's been a while - sigh - 8 years ago
Cheers guys. Using the SD image from dc42's branch resolved the problems for me. Previously the G31 settings were held in non-volatile store so I had the G31 line commented out - I take it from seeing it back in the config file once more, that NV parameter store has been depreciated? I'm also curious about finding the MAC address in the config now - why's this here now? Great work though, lovingby Radian - Ormerod
Re: It's been a while - sigh - 8 years ago
Good to be back, thanks. I'm very puzzled though... before upgrading to your latest firmware, I successfully printed an object using Matt's we control panel and all went well. Next I updated the firmware to your 1.04e and also installed zpl's web control. This looked very promising but I seemed to have to reverse the X axis motor connector to get it going in the right direction.Then when I attemby Radian - Ormerod
It's been a while - sigh - 8 years ago
I haven't been keeping up with Ormerod developments for a year or so now and it looks like plenty has happened. I want to dust of my printer and get it printing again but I'm a bit nervous about jumping in with firmware upgrades and the like, The last firmware I loaded was David's 057s-dc42.bin used with Matt's OrmerodWebControl V0.65 My own capacitive Z-probe is still fitted and works well withby Radian - Ormerod
Re: Z-height sensor - inductive? - 9 years ago
Quotedc42 Hi Radian, I am indeed using a different capacitive sensing technique. My prototype uses the Atmel charge transfer technique, which doesn't rely on a constant-current source, but does rely on a reference capacitor (I'm using a temperature-stable one), and requires 2 pins to be connected directly or indirectly to the sense plate (increasing the pin capacitance). I am also using one of mby Radian - Ormerod
Re: Z-height sensor - inductive? - 9 years ago
Hi all, glad to see the ideas still flowing in. Not had much spare time but still keeping up with this topic. After bouncing off the inductive sensor due to the difficulty in getting reproducible results myself, I'm still sold on the capacitive method. I think David has used the Atmel micro to do the sensing but the Microchip PIC I've been working with uses a significantly different technique (coby Radian - Ormerod
Re: OpenScad advice... required. - 9 years ago
I'm greatly enjoying this thread - it's really switched me on to OpenSCAD and I'm also dreaming up ideas for projects involving parabolas. Treth, have you thought about printing in ABS and using the Acetone polishing method: ?by Radian - Ormerod
Re: OpenScad advice... required. - 9 years ago
Many thanks 3D-ES & GregL - I hadn't spotted that PDF presentation before. Just what I needed.by Radian - Ormerod
Re: OpenScad advice... required. - 9 years ago
QuoteGregL I suspect that OpenSCAD might have some links back to an old AI language called Lisp - it too had a habit of doing things in reverse order. Separate statements ( terminated by ';' or '}' ) are seemingly performed in a normal sequence - However inside the statement, where there are cascaded operations, it starts with the one at the terminator, and works its way backwards towards the begby Radian - Ormerod
Re: Z-height sensor - inductive? - 9 years ago
dc42, I'd be interested to see how you get on with improvements to the capacitive sensor in the other thread. Temperature stability doesn't seem to be an issue using the PIC CSM - it applies and removes a constant current to the sensor plate alone so there's no additional external parts involved. A couple of years ago I spent (wasted?) hundreds of hours on a project to design a powerful pulse inby Radian - Ormerod
Re: Z-height sensor - inductive? - 9 years ago
Hi Treth. The capacitive scheme has been working very well for me in the last couple of weeks, but I suspect changes in humidity are going to require more frequent recalibration than an inductive approach - which is probably the least affected by environmental variables. As things were moving surely, if a little slowly, with the other techniques I didn't want to get sidetracked by exploring yet aby Radian - Ormerod
Re: Capacitive Z-height sensing - 9 years ago
Glad to see you working with the capacitive sensor dc42. As for the illumination issue, could you extend one edge of the sensor laminate a little to accommodate the thrid SM LED? It would shine straight down and could plug into 0.1" header in the through-hole positions on the main board. The clearance would be reduced by the depth of the device but you can get some very slim LED's now. Other relby Radian - Ormerod
Re: How to replace stepper controler on Duet
- 9 years ago
Er,sorry Edit! Wrong picture posted a moment ago. This is the photo I should have posted showing the first step in removing the ARM chip from a Duet using silicone mask The metal bits are there to contain the hot air (there's already enough of that around me)by Radian - Ormerod
Re: How to replace stepper controler on Duet - 9 years ago
Quoteepninety I'd start with a fresh blade in the scalpel, cut each of the legs at the device body. Then remove the legs from the pcb with small soldering iron. (Sounds bad but I've never broken a pad doing this - use the tip of a rounded blade, and slice vertically downwards) No disrespect but I personally I think this is just too risky. The levering action as the leg parts company with the chiby Radian - Ormerod
Re: How to replace stepper controler on Duet - 9 years ago
It certainly can be done, for example, with hot air from a decorator's adjustable heat gun. The tricky bit is not displacing surrounding components and not scorching everything in sight. Before now I've used High-temperature Silicone (gasket grade silicone) as a temporary mask and fixant in a ring around an IC I wanted to replace using hot air: Leave it for as long as you can for it to cure (by Radian - Ormerod
Re: Erik's Duet PCB - 9 years ago
I like your FM "Bug" Erik ;-) I've had a thing about sticking to no-clean flux ever since ruining several days work on a large illuminated switch matrix on which I'd used a more agressive flux that hid under the switches and then secretly ate the copper tracks.by Radian - Ormerod
Re: Capacitive Z-height sensing - 9 years ago
Quoteormerod168 I wish I could unsolder, turn and solder these two members of the resistance so I could print without the PC connected but I know I can't Hi Erik, I started up a new topic about soldering here: I hope it might be of help.by Radian - Ormerod
Erik's Duet PCB - 9 years ago
Quoteormerod168 I wish I could unsolder, turn and solder these two members of the resistance so I could print without the PC connected but I know I can't Erik Hi Erik, I wanted to offer some help with your soldering woes so I started a fresh topic. Hope you don't mind. What I was going to add to the advice you were getting here is that the solder resist coating (blue lacquer in this case)by Radian - Ormerod
Re: Capacitive Z-height sensing - 9 years ago
Quoteauser Just my 0.02: I think soldering one wire should be ok for almost everybody operating a reprap I know, it's very tempting to think so but it's just so tantalizingly close to being a plug & play fit that conforms to the skill set needed to assemble the standard Ormorod kit. I wonder, do any other RepRap kits require soldering work? The following plot may be of interest - it's a setby Radian - Ormerod