QuoteKaroo Klong I get that, but the air still only blows from one side. I would like to create something that goes around the print head to eliminate uneven cooling. I suppose one could incorporate one of these smaller surroundings shrouds onto your fan bracket? I've been through all this, forget about using a ordinary fan, you will need the pressure of a radial fan blower Way too little spaceby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteKaroo Klong Still nothing. Here you go - it's a bit dated, but so was the original request :-) Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Wanted to make the x-runner in aluminium but have no tool to drill the 21mm hole for the bearing, could have bought one but the cost of it would remove the joy of making...luckily I found a piece of scrap extrusion 50x20mm with a square hole of 21x22mm where the bearing would slip right in Milled of both lower "overhangs" and used one of the uppers for the x-runner bearing.... ... the otheby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteWesBrooks Just noticed my new fans are 0.25A rather than 0.15. Should shit some more air! :-) Your design looks very nice! - yes a centrifugal blower is the way to go, I nicked a 0.24A (Delta Electronics BUB0512Hb) from a Makita charger and that's plenty of air QuoteEdit 2: You do loose some y axis travel. How much did you offset the nozzle?by ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotecheeseandham Quoteormerod168 The PTFE tube _is_ doing something, mostly with the acrylic rib, less with the aluminium one, but still via the springiness of the plastic parts between x-runner- bearing and metal part of hotend Erik Thank you Erik. So to mitigate this in your opinion what should be done? One idea is to increase the size of the bowden as much as reasonably possible, but I'lby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotecheeseandham I'll take a close look at the cabling and the PTFE tubing, and see if it is doing something. The PTFE tube _is_ doing something, mostly with the acrylic rib, less with the aluminium one, but still via the springiness of the plastic parts between x-runner- bearing and metal part of hotend Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Bosch Rexroth Profile compatible Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteWesBrooks What is the benefit of the quickset nozzle? Simple, cheap, easy to adjust the height, flexible if you want to roll your own hotend (I like the way you can attach it low and near the nozzle tip) Quote I'd guess moving to a V6 hotend would make more sense? It will be easier to ad a part cooling duct but if you want a cooling ring around the nozzle the x-axis smooth rod will get inby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteWesBrooks There's a lot being discussed about these pumps at the moment and my feeling from what you've said is that it isn't worth chasing the best fan setup, but more worth implementing one of these. Thanks. I found it to be worth it - a good centrifugal high pressure blower (like Delta Electronic BUB0512HB DC12 0.24A) and a proper designed air duct (like the Cobra from thingiverse) and aby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteeinI've reduced the amount of filament at the end of the layer by upping the retraction speed to 100mm/s. 30mm/s should be the ideal setting for PLA, so I'm told, but I find 60 to print better on my printer ..but the speed and distance of retraction also depends of you stepper current, acceleration and jerk setting your could try to ad my settings to your config and then print the attacheby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteeinWhat setting would help with the blob at the start of the layer? That would be a negative value of "extra length on restart" under "printer settings\extruder1" But first get your extrusion spot on slice and print the thin_wall_test.stl, don't mess with the extrusion rate while printing measure the walls with a micrometer and compare with the sliced perimeter width, if you open the sliceby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteKaroo Klong I have been having problems with the Z-Clamps as when printing in the heat chamber the X-Arm keeps dropping by 0.1mm increments as the ABS flexes in the heat. So.. I decided to make my own Z-Clamps from Aluminium and it came out great! Nice! - how high do you run the temperature in the chamber? - and do you cool the Duet? QuoteNow that I got everything back together the one LM1by ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteeinDo you think that changing that single setting (after me trying a lot of other things including temp, extrusion multiplier, etc that would indicate that I'm getting too much filament) would do the trick? The faults would be randomized instead of added on top but still be there I think you should start from scratch with a clean install of your slicer and the default settings, then sliceby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quoteein..I noted that the movements from the Slic3r code to the Cura code are radically different. The Slic3r movements are very regular, making each later almost exactly the same, starting and stopping at the same spot.... So your setting in Slic3r is "Alligned", change it to "Random" Slic3r\Print Setting\Layers and perimeters\Seam position (Alligned - Random - Nearest) Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotedc42 The ribbon cable is very reliable, so I don't see any reason to replace it as long as you are using a Duet 0.6 I highly agree, never did fail on my two Ormerods QuoteI replaced the Duet 0.6 in my Ormerod by a Duet 0.8.5 recently. The 0.8.5 doesn't have the ribbon cable connector, so I had to replace the bed heater wires. I used thick highly-flexible loudspeaker wire for them. I keptby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotecheeseandham ...I really didn't want a 4.3" 480×272 screen. I'll wait for the 7" screens to become available again. 4.3" is fine, anything bigger is overkill IMHO QuoteNot happy with the bed level at the moment, the front left corner seems to be way down. Not sure where it's coming from just yet, if it's the MDF insulator causing it or Y-axis twist. So that's going to keep be busy. Typicaby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Good catch David!, yes I could see there was something missing but not quite figga it out what it was ;-) Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Very nice! Is the upper nut in your anti-backlash setup mechanically secured to the z-nut trap? Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteSardi Hey Erik, could you make the z nut mod extended? Like this one Im using a long M5 nut. Hey Sardi, here you go - it's the original from link modified to fit the x-motor-braket mod Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteSardi I had the same issue when I printed the original X motor bracket. Cutting the corners seems to do the trick, also raising the bed temperature from 110 to 120C might have helped - forgot to note the print was on Kapton tape sanded with P400 ..and remember to scale up a bit if ABS, 0.6% for the filament I use at the moment Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Was trying to print the x-motor-bracket in ABS but had a hard time preventing it from lifting the corners, so re-designed it for easier printing (cutting the corners) and while I was at it, opened the belt tunnels a bit as the belt was dragging also made a stronger z-bearing-clamp with four screw holes, to use these you will have to drill four extra holes in the x-arm, just print the z-motor-by ormerod168 - Ormerod
The original default was x-y-z 800mA My settings: M906 X1000 Y1200 Z800 E1200 ; Set motor currents (mA) M201 X1200 Y1200 Z20 E3600 ; set accelerations (mm/s^2) M566 X1800 Y1800 Z30 E20 ; maximum jerk speed mm/minute Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quoteredblunt But I got questions to your IR sensor: does it work in the dark? Yes QuoteDoes it work on a black surface too? works just fine on BuildTak (can't recommend BuildTak though, the glue fails) Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteKaroo Klong Any ideas on where I can find the Y-Axis bearing clamps for the Ormerod 1 please.. All the ormerod source files is downloadable from github in one zip, but I have attached the original ormerod1 383 and 384 y-bearing-clamp.stl ....and a modified stronger version with screws all the way though BTW, to downsize pictures for posting I use the windows snipping tool (snipping tby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteKaroo Klong Its funny, I find it easier to upgrade this machine and to fabricate the parts myself that to actually make a design and have the printer print it for me To be able to imagine and make stuff with your own hands and simple tools is a blessing in my book :-), not to belittle the joy of designing and printing things, but I'm very newbie in OpenScad and have much to learn before iby ormerod168 - Ormerod
How stiff is the cable compared to the PTFE tube?, the variation in down pressure on the Ormerod's hinged hotend is know to give the illusion of a bulged glass plate And also the gear ratio of 30:1, do you find this to be a problem?, I seem to remember dc42 noting something about 10:1 would be max for the Duet (mass to higher speed, jerk speed, acceleration) Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Yes that looks kind of weird, have you had this problem before?, used this kind of filament before (at same temperature setting, it looks kind of hot)?, made any change you slicing setting recently? Looks a bit like extreme nozzle height or too low extrusion width vs nozzle diameter If sliced with Sli3r, what are your settings at "printer settings\advanced"? Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Great job! - I like the handle on top, really the only sensible way to move the printer, but of cause only possible with the z-extrusion secured like you have done ..it also makes a lot of sense to move the duet enclosure out to the edge, will not ad to the width and makes room to ad hotend parts, fan deflector and better print cooling The angled aluminium end parts looks great and solid (bet iby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Thank's for the update! - keep 'em coming - we need this! :-) to make a picture appear in post: "Attach a file" "Choose File" "Attach" "create link in message" Work for me with Firefox, Opera, Brave etc. Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod