Quotesinnedwrong I would imagine test_square_pyramid is in the include file on line 4 (In my file dated 9/5/2014 21:51 at 6kb the final lines are : // Tests: test_square_pyramid(){square_pyramid(10, 20, 30);} i.e the "module" keyword is missing) however I can't see this module called anywhere so I don't think it matters If you open your MCAD/regular_shapes.scad file and comment out the lasby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteKaroo Klong I tried to download a new Slic3r update but every single version I tried to download gave me this annoying error. It seems Sli3r no longer allows you to download their software. ? - I have no problems downloading from the official site here (just did): Quote I still cant get my ABS to stay stuck. So I very reluctantly mixed up some ABS slurry. but have not yet tested or usedby ormerod168 - Ormerod
att: xiaoyao9184 See no way to attach to PM's so here your request for blueprint over the z-y connector plate, was going to clean out the house over the weekend, but transforming my back-on-envelope to openscad was way more interesting :-) Attached, DFX and OpenScad file I used the free holes in both end to line up and pre-mount the plate to the y-extrusion, besides that they are not reallyby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotesinnedwrong so the real issue is the availability or y-axis-end-plate.DXF called on line 99 Thoughts? Dennis Try this with the right path, y-axis-end-plate.DXF attached, you can find it on github Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteDarathy Even if it was bridgable it would be a pain to remove the bridging material later when it would be closed up. Yes it would be impossible so I fixed that by placing a piece of flexible material (rubber) for the bridge to float on Stopped the print and removed that with a pair of players, did not look pretty but was solid enough for the next layers to build on, so turned out alriby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quoteormerod168 Quotejamesf This is quite funny. Just reading release notes on V4 of simplify 3d. They fixed the bridging perimeter speed and angle issues we were just dealing with. Yes and it is released, lets see if they got it right Erik Not quite, still trying to turn in the middle of bridge, maybe this model is un-bridgeable, but a "need support" message would be nice, surely the softwaby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotejamesf This is quite funny. Just reading release notes on V4 of simplify 3d. They fixed the bridging perimeter speed and angle issues we were just dealing with. Yes and it is released, lets see if they got it right Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotejamesf Thanks Eric, glad to know it can be done. Was that with the same settings from your previous post? I did ad 3mm the overlap so total 4mm just for safety but I don't think it was necessary, it fused just fine with no pullback QuoteWhat I did notice while watching the printer and the simulation on Simplify 3D, is that the direction of the infil of the bridge is not always directby ormerod168 - Ormerod
..and in the left corner we have...I just had to try if bridging corner to corner on the ormerod was possible, it ain't pretty but a 200mm bridge it is :-) I attached a zip with set of stl files like the model I printed, bridging length 50 to 200mm, total length is + 30mm each - it's a simple model made in OpenScad, scad file attached the food is a 20 x 20 x 1, post is 10 x 10 x10mm, so the bby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quoteredblunt The big gear side of the coldend is kinda slid out but I guess this is not the actual problem beacause hobbed wheel does not seem to run very circular. ..so I might decrease distance between the hobbed wheel and the bearing ..or make the bearing thicker ..or try a new screw That could be it! - notice on the picture how the bearing (with no filament installed) bottoms out on theby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotegwild Hi Erik, that looks a great mod of the Cobra cooler to make it fit Ormerod. Do you have the files you could share? What else is needed to make it fit? many thanks Hi gwild I would gladly make a mod of the Cobra to fit the Ormerod directly, but my printer is not quite stock anymore and its requires a change to the original hotend to fit it in, I wrote at bit about it here: Basicalby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quoteredblunt QuoteCould you first layer be too low? First layer ist set to 0.3mm as all layers. Quotedo the hotend swing freely around the smooth rod? Hotend can swing about 3mm up. Quoteany extra weight added to the hotend recently? No extra weight. Quotewhat happens if you set first layer zero You mean in the slic3r setting? Did not try that Quoteis the push form extruder able lifby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Look like its kind of repeating in length of filament, anything strange with the big extruder gear? Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Could you first layer be too low? - what happens if you set first layer zero, is the push form extruder able lift the nozzle? - do the hotend swing freely around the smooth rod?, any extra weight added to the hotend recently? Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotejamesf What is your default extrusion speed ? (normal printing, not bridging ) The bottleneck on my system is the extruder stepper so I don't really have any default printing speed, often adjust the speed depending on perimeter and infill extrusion width, layer hight and nozzle temperature - but 50mm/s seems to be a safe zone with my normal printing setting layer hight 0.25 and width 0.75 bby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Not Ormerod 2 but 1 Here's the settings that works for me I too find speed makes no difference and if the bridge goes to the edge of the model the perimeters will be bridging at normal printing speed anyway If drooping layers Stretching the filament by reducing the bridging extrusion multiplier will help Keep the extrusion width at auto (my setting is usually 1.5 x nozzle width) Lots of cooby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteKaroo Klong I have got the new aluminium X-Arm reinstalled now and I changed the design to be like it was in the Ormerod 1 where the rib actually grips the M5 nut, Since I cant successfully print yet that's the way I have to make things happen. I wonder why did they remove that nut grip on the Ormerod 2? The acrylic part was very fragile in that area and would often brake, also mine came wiby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotetrevmas..I think the secret is getting the cooling block in the right place.. Agreed...and a lot of cooling added to the cooling block The downside is that the low mounted fan do not leave much space to ad proper cooling to the print but one can fix that by adding another cooling block on top of the original one (and that also ads more thermal mass to the cooling block) - its a prototypeby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteKaroo Klong I have now reassembled the printer with the new revised aluminium parts and gave the printing another go with snowman. I am using black ABS and bed temperature at 110'C and hot end at 240'C Take care while printing at higher temperatures e.g. ABS with the original PLA parts in place on the x-axis, those parts do not take much heat before giving in, esp. the X-carriage is known tby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteKaroo Klong How do you find the machine/kit number? I would really like to know and use it's number. The first 500 was version 383 (RS red printed parts), the later was named ver. 384 You can download the source codes here: Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteKaroo Klong I Love the mods you did. I can't wait to get mine in the same sturdy shape. Thank You - I did invest a lot of time and work but it was time well spend and well worth it, the ormerod is a great printer! BTW, the original cooling design could be better so you may want to print and install something else later, I have this great design from thingiverse installed at the moment, nby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteKaroo Klong Amazing work Erik! Thank You! - I find the ormerod design to be pure eye candy, just need a bit of modding to be stable and transportable (lol) Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteKaroo Klong Thank you so much for your help Erik. No problem, always glad to help and nice to see some action in the forum again! QuoteI now only manualy evel the bed. I use dc42's brilliant probe but still fine adjust the nozzle on paper by turning the treaded rod manually, easy to do esp. when the motor current turns down after half a minute or so - I installed a star wheel on top of tby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteHorrendousMess.. The Y-axis slips varying amounts, often about 5mm. It seems to me this must be mechanical, but I cannot pin it down. a loose grub screw on a flat sided motor axle will do just that Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotechriske Silicone indeed Thank You!, I really could use one of those - should think that explains how you can print such a tiny 0.78mm rod without collapsing Erikby ormerod168 - Look what I made!
Nice! - the blue thing around the nozzle - heat shield made of silicon? Erikby ormerod168 - Look what I made!
QuoteKaroo Klong Hi Lasse Have you managed to fix this problem yet? I'm not Lasse but see the end of this thread: Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotedmould Gooidag Godaw do :-) QuoteTool selection numbering went through a few changes, and the extruder is now selected with "T1" I think it was T0, then T1 and now back to T0 Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteKaroo Klong Now the tool selection is still not active You should have a line with M563 to define a tool and a line with T0 to set it active e.g from my config: M563 P0 D0 H1 ; Define tool 1 T0 Quote....and my Y-Axis is inverted. But no matter how I incert the wireing of the code, the printer still tries to find the limit switch for the Y-Axis on the opposite side. you should alsby ormerod168 - Ormerod