QuoteKimBrown Hi Erik, I like the pallets. Have you the stl files? I could do with making some pallets to scatter around my ON30 layout. Hi Kim, here's the file, just scale it in slic3er: Here's another one I tried to print, did no go so well, memo to myself: look at the stI before printing, and do not print pallet standing on end he he... Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteSlinBin yes please, how do you print those bridges? Nothing to it at all - anyone can do it - anyone! - how do I know? - because I'm anyone, I don't know anything about 3-D printing whatsoever and yet I printed this thing, just use your sense of logic, surely you will have to get your extrusion right, you don't wan't to extrude too much or too little, experiment, get it right and watch thaby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotearnaud31 ..very nice! would you be able to show the underside of the prints, where the bridge was laid? I am curious to see how it looks. The pallets was printed upside down, so all the pictures is as seen from underneath as printed - taking photos is really not my thing, I'm a "auto settings using - no time to read documentation man", but I think these pictures came out rather nicely, theby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Just what I wood (he) need to make my EUR Pallet prints look more natural, btw, pallets is great for bridge-building tests EUR Pallets in scale 1:10, 1:20, 1:40, 1:80 (and a Chep Pallet in between) Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Nice one zeAllan! also, for those using 3 point adjustment only, a single length of the L-shaped metal profile turned upside down would be great to support the backside of the bed as to extend the y-axis-cross-rib's support of the back corners Quote..and most of the levelling screws on my bed don't reach all the way through the holes in the insulator anyway because of the bending, so there's nby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quoteiamburny I'm tempted to remove the ally heat spreader as you suggested but rather than lie it on top of the mdf I think I might use it to replace the mdf, so cut out holes to fit directly on the vertical wood supports. I'm trying to think of reasons why this is a bad idea! any thoughts? Matt Thoughts yes, but practical experience came first I'm afraid :-) - I had to try it of cause, I justby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Hi Paul Yes do as dc42 suggest and if that's not enough you can loosen the two M6x16mm countersunk socket head screws in the end of the Aluminium extrusion and force the y-motor-bracket/acrylic part up a bit by placing a spacer under the....ehh..here's a picture from the documentation...where the arrow points to: ..or you could remove some material same place in the other end (the y-idler-endby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuotePaulHam ...How do you make the 2 inner adjustments solid? Hi Paul, solid as in screw washer and nut solid was what I meant to say :-) Quote I will move the alu heat spreader down on top of the MDF bed and cut a hole for the bed temp probe wiring. Then i assume i will need longer M3 screws for the adjustments? with a chunky spring for the outer most middle adjustment? the screws, can't reby ormerod168 - Ormerod
...this is what I would do/have done (and have been printing happily ever after), I don't run any setbed.g file at the moment Make sure the glass is flat, take away the aluminum heat spreader, imho it's not needed, put it to better use on top of - and for support of the corners of the unstable MDF bed Go for a 3 point adjustment of the bed, this will be stable because of the rather direct lineby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quote88Zombies....Thank you all for taking the time it’s much appreciated. Apologies for my lack of talent Don't even think about it! - we are all here to help/get help/payback the help we got/learn something/better the product/get new ideas...or to sum it up, to have fun! Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quote88Zombies ~ On Proterface – clicked ‘SD’ and clicked on the ormaxis.g file to print. However the 2nd print was EXACTLY the same as the first (images attached to show how simlar the two prints were) even the most miniscule of printing error blobs were repeated... That's because you printed the exact same g-file, slic3er did not change anything to the existing already sliced file To sliby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteDavaka I don't know, Does G32 work better than G30? Auto probing G32 would work just fine if the z probe would work but it don't, dc42 is working hard on that :-) Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteDavaka ....Then I choose SD print and select circle.g and run that. This should be correct right? Yes that is correct and you should see the Z axis drive screw rotating if there is any difference in your four coordinate values ..and as the documentation say "You can put the Z readings you jotted down in a (setbed.g) file so you don’t have to do this every time the machine is run" and..by ormerod168 - Ormerod
Brilliant idea! ..and have fun mounting those wheels if they are what I think ;-) (thank you much to iamburny) to line up the screw with the gear, in a drill press, drill a 3mm hole in a block of wood "set" the screw straight with a hammer make sure the driver wheel is screwed on tight the hairy part! - its a very good idea to support the no drive end of the motor axle directly Iby ormerod168 - Ormerod
one Kit 5 please thank you very much! Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotemancinism It takes a while for the slic3r to save the gcode. If you upload the gcode to pronterface before slic3r complete the process, you will only get half of the print. Not sure if thats your case, but I did such a mistake once. I always look at the g code for the happy ending before printing QuoteG1 X2 Y190; park the machine M0; stop ; filament used = 10536.1mm (25.3cm3)by ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quote88Zombies ...how do you mean need to save all three tabs individually?? There are 3 configuration files, print, printer and filament, if you make any change to the startup/standard setup you will be asked if to save these new setting when you close the program "Save the bees, save the trees, save the whales...oh and save those snails" Quote George Carlin Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quote5dala Though there are a few things on my wishlist, since the mechanichal parts kit isnot yet available from RC I need to get my hands on a duetboard along with 4x nema 17 motors Ideas are welcome! /5D It's all available here, hardware, electronics I plan to order a new duet there (got one of the very early sought after special limited edition faulty ones) Do you plan to run nema 17by ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotedc42 ... Should the lighting be on continuously, or only when the fan is running (which will be when the hot end temperature is above about 45C or the thermistor appears to be open circuit)? Imho allways on would be just fine Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotedc42 It looks useful, but how freely does the spool rotate? If that should be a problem, print extra spacer, place spacer at bottom, ad balls, ad extra spacer - ta-daa - ball bearing! Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quoteormerod168 ...Its a very bad idea to attach anything to the filament tube as the variating downward pressure along the x-axis on the nozzle is bad enough as it is... Erik The visual:by ormerod168 - Ormerod
Hi Allan Why not put them all under extruder clip like this? Its a very bad idea to attach anything to the filament tube as the variating downward pressure along the x-axis on the nozzle is bad enough as it is, not even cable guy has been able to fix this problem for me...yet! Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotedc42... a fully-populated board (estimated cost £22 + VAT + carriage)?.. Thank's much for doing this, put me down for one please! Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quote88Zombies Also, what about all the other wires that are are attached to the ATX PSU? do these just stay loose? Octo: "Don't worry, I got this!" Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Hi mike I downloaded Iamburny's setting and made a compare show dif. Ianburny's at the left, those I use at the right Print: Printer: Filament: Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteMickyblueeyes Hi I have been running the thin wall test to determine the difference between different filaments I have here, the problem I am getting is that the wall thickness varies from 0.55 on the curved sections then down to almost 0.3 mm where the walls join is this a printer firmware issue or a slicr3 error? Mike Hi Mike Just you have something to compare to - did a measurement onby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotestatic65 Just been quoted £110 for a new Duet and IR sensor... huuuuurrrgh..... Could be even more huuuuurrrgh ! "Duet £119.50" Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotedmould I believe the updated part in the Omerod master moves the nut trap from the laser cut part to the printed part... Dave (#106) Yes, you are right about that and it's the new STL I attached to the post Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
If you mean the slot in the acrylic x-cross rib that hold the M5 nut for the threaded z-rod is broken, there is a new print for that (attached), print it while you still can Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quote88Zombies It says at the bottom of the page "do not connect" Should be read as in "do not connect, yet" - you have not yet reached the "Watch for smoke in case something has gone horribly wrong!" part :-) Quote Also, what about all the other wires that are are attached to the ATX PSU? do these just stay loose? Yes, these are just "extras" Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod