Nice work! - I especially like the aluminum supported y-axis-end-plates, this is one of the weak links of the original build, so no more setbed.g for you I guess? Yes you may have gone a bit too far as you don't get the full return on the stability of the 4 bearing support with the springs added, but there is no such thing as over engineering! - very well done, and many nice details, thank youby ormerod168 - Ormerod
dc42 I should be happy to do a test but that would be my very first ABS print ever so it would hardly prove anything, well maybe I'll go for it anyway A 180x180mm low side single wall square or such would be a good test object I did take the bed to ABS temperature and there was no problem with that of cause ..good point about heat spreading over time - comes to think of it - a slower heat diby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteGregL But are you now losing the heat spreader between bed and glass? Will that degrade the temperature uniformity across the Kapton tape? Greg I see no difference whatsoever, been printing without it for quite while now Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteTreth ...Your pictures did make me think..... Do you need to cut the MDF? Would you not get the same result with a three point mount as you are now using?... No you don't have to cut the front corners of the MDF at all, easier fix not to do it actually, just drill a hole for the probe and place the aluminum on top of the old bed and fix it with the four screws I hold the front end down wby ormerod168 - Ormerod
From the thread: Quote..and you will have to attach that to the the y-axis-rib and y-axis-cross rib - if you think about it (and if we for the sake of argument say the heat spreader is not needed) what's the difference between what you are trying to achieve compared and the Q & D fix?...beside a lot of added work of drilling holes and the cost of the extra aluminum? The sagging corners ofby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteTMD_RS436 Well I am in the middle of making a 3mm aluminium sheet to replace the mdf version... Paul ..and you will have to attach that to the the y-axis-rib and y-axis-cross rib - if you think about it (and if we for the sake of argument say the heat spreader is not needed) what's the difference between what you are trying to achieve compared and the Q & D fix?...beside a lot of addedby ormerod168 - Ormerod
tru168 I have removed the aluminum heat spreader, the glass now rest on the PCB Heatbed , I don't find (so far at least) that the heat spreader is doing any difference A quick and dirty fix for your warping bed could be to move the aluminum plate down and attach it to the bed as a support, you will have to make a cut-out for the thermistor connector Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
My prints has been much much harder to remove after I smoothed (or made rough actually) the kapton over with a sanding block P400 to level out the small dimples from nozzle crash, could be worth a try? Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quoteeaj29 ...Where can I get all the acrylic parts cut out? Ideally, I would replace them by aluminium parts, does anyone know a service that ships to/is located in Germany? --Eric I would go for the aluminum solution, the X-axis in acrylic is not stable and will give you pain, the planned two more extruder's will not better that Where to get the parts cut? - anywhere in any industrial sectby ormerod168 - Ormerod
onno Mechanical bed auto leveling in action: Thingiverse, Auto bed-level for Ultimaker Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quoteonno That makes me wonder: would replacing the IR probe by a microswitch still allow for bed-level compensation? I would place the microswitch in roughly the same spot as the probe, but would (hopefully) get rid of the problems with the probe. Yes but will require a servo to lift the microswitch after measurement as you will have touchdown of the switch before nozzle Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteGregL A 1Kg reel of filament is more like 1.18Kg. When (soon) we have three colours, we will have nearly 3.5Kg of reels - definitely not want that hanging off the Z axis Greg I may have overdone it at bit, but it should be safe for 500kg :-) Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quoteappjaws1 Question do I need to do any set up to run the stl files or does Pronterface do it all for me? Thanks again, a great form regards Paul Yes Pronterface will do it all for you as a frontend for Slic3r, but with the standard setup files The Single Wall Alignment Test is sliced with dc42's changes of settings, 4mm retraction, first layer 195C, then 190C, skirt separation 15mm, loopsby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteJoar107 I have prepared for direct drive from motor anyone that have tried it yet? /Joar That makes a lot of sense, you get closer to the z-axis and a bit forward out of the x-axis line, all together closer to the center line of the load the z-rod move, minus the two gears drives, another plus in the book of accuracy I guess you will keep the ability for the z-nut to slip out of its sockby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Paul Try this one if you like Single Wall Alignment Test: printed out just fine for me, and it can hold water :-) (g-code attached) Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotetru168 .... enter command G1 Z100 and let the stepper spin, and lightly hold the motor shaft, you can feel knocking vibration in the motor.... Just tried it, my Z-motor runs smoothly with a spinning sound all the way up to max momentum where it of cause start missing steps (holding the gear with fingers) with a knocking sound ..and you should not be able to stop the motor from turning whiby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quoterayhicks It's likely that interference between the belt and the idler mount is the cause - if it's giving any real resistance to movement, then the motor will be stalling (missing steps) in one direction, this would lead to staggering in Y (much as a slipping belt would - but you say you've got this nice and tight). Is it possible to prevent the rubbing either by turning the belt around (ifby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Just a idea, to make sure the step motor is OK I would do this: Take the motor apart, take a good look at the rotor/stator to see if there is any sign of wear between those parts, they are not supposed to touch each other whilst turning, paint the rotor with a thin layer of paint (use a permanent ink pen or whatever it's called in engrish), put the motor together again, important: run the motorby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Nice! - have you raised the supporting bearing inside the z-gear? - is the centerline of bearing, z-gear and motor-gear at the same horizontal level? Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotedc42 Quoteormerod168 No twisting x-axis = no variating in nozzle hight, glass again flat (the bulged glass illusion), bed stable as it should be, 3 point bed spring adjustment - well done, bravo! Erik Bulging glass is not entirely an illusion. If it were, then you would get the same amount of "bulging" at all y-axis positions. I get more at Y=100 than I do at Y=0 or Y=190. You may be righby ormerod168 - Ormerod
No twisting x-axis = no variating in nozzle hight, glass again flat (the bulged glass illusion), bed stable as it should be, 3 point bed spring adjustment - well done, bravo! Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteTreth ....a right hand thread one end and a left hand thread the other end.... If this is true then it must be a length adjusting nut - to adjust the total length of two rod with the nut in between, turn to one side, you pull them together, turn to the other side you push them apart Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteGregL...and I would like suggestions on a suitable demonstration object which can be printed at Ormerod's maximum accuracy. Greg How about "Single Wall Alignment Test" from thingiverse, it's very fragile and delicate and great for testing ormerod accuracy, belt tension, extrusion etc. Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quoteormerod168 Notice how the force of the tube is at its hight in the middle of the bed X25 Z0.0 X50 Z0.1 X75 Z0.1 X100 Z0.2 X125 Z0.2 X150 Z0.1 X175 Z0.05 X200 Z0.0 The visual: X40 Y100, diff. 51 gram X180 Y100, diff. 61 gram X120 Y100, diff. 107 gram So what does this variation of 51 - 107 - 61 gram do to my nozzle hight readings? A difference at about 0.2 mm in nozzle hight fby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Hint: when you put the end parts on again, arrest the disc and spring disc with a bit of grease so they stay down until the bearing reach its end point The end pars should be allowed to slip on freely, don't try to force one side only, should go on easily in a parallel way when you have tightened the four motor screws, give the ends a small sharp jab with something light as to make the bearinby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotetru168 Hi Erik, I'm thinking of doing so, but a little worry if I can't fix it, and support might not accept it for warranty. I'm in Asia country, replacement motor will take ages to arrive here. If support agree to let me open it up, I will be happy to do so. Ew Don't worry they will, it's no big deal to dismantle the motor, should be quite simple according to Ian, has been discussedby ormerod168 - Ormerod
To make my point clear, when measuring pos. through nozzle hight readings you are adding your reference point to your measurements Or to put it another way, if your bed is perfectly flat, then you are measuring your reference point, the flatness of the x-axis/bearing contact and the force of the filament tube Z readings along the x-axis at Y100 aka the middle of bed, Z pos. read at nozzle touchdby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Take the motor apart and clean it out with air, there may be small pieces of metal grit inside left from production, haven't done it myself but to take the motor apart and clean it out should be no problem according to Ian from RepRappro support Edit: If you do take the motor apart a few pictures of the inside parts would be nice Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotedc42 I took some measurements using 3mm glass, then switched to 4mm and remeasured. Using 3mm glass, the centre of the bed was 0.175mm higher than the average of the corners. Using 4mm glass, the centre is 0.075mm higher than the average of the corners. This is a useful improvement. I used the same 9mm photo frame clips, so the clamping force will be a little higher using 4mm glass. I currby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotejohneato ....I presume that the PCB is now bearing the weight of the glass and print. Have you done anything to reinforce the PCB corners. John Yes it is and no I haven't - yet My plan is top down - 4mm glass, PCB and cork for the isolation, how the mounting will be I haven't decided yet, but it seems to me that the PCB will carry the weight just fine, well the carrying points is very cloby ormerod168 - Ormerod