QuoteKimBrown The printer worked first time once a problem with the SD card was sorted, and the machine oil cleared the nozzle. ditto, SD card did not work, first print slipped Quote Just my inexperience of 3D printing to fix now.... ditto, complete new to 3D, lot's of fun ahead Quote Being on a ship there's no where to get Methsor Acetone to clean it..... So my last tip is use aftershave....by ormerod168 - Ormerod
Polish the rod with lapping compound, take a close look at it through a magnifying glass, repeat Mount a longer nut, should of cause be of other material than the rod, I think I would chose bronze Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Customer: (yelling and hitting the SD-Card repeatedly) - "ELLO SD-CARD!!!!!" Customer: "Now that's what I call a dead SD-card!" Ian: "No, no.....No, 'e's stunned! Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotekwikius I dont see the part in commisioning about taking the supplied SD card and either stamping on it, taking a sledge hammer to it, burning it, flushing out down the toilet, throwing it far out into the ocean, giving it as a present to someone you dont like etc ? regards Andy Agreed, stop horsing around and bite the bullet :-)) Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotentroufan My sensor is fine but the fan duct keeps hitting the bed clip no matter what I do. (pic attached) You can also slice of a bit of the fan duct, did, about 1-2mm as far as I remember, you don't have to leave much, it's low pressure air, use new sharp sandpaper only Quote Is the only solution for this is to get new clips? You could try "the stiff upper lip clip mod" Andy is linkby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteKimBrown Heated Bed Cabling..... Ok when I was trying to get the ribbon cable to lay nicely under the work surface I found that move the table up and down the Y axis sometimes resulted in the ribbon cable piling up the Y axis motor end and would have jammed up the movement. So here's my simple solution to fix that problem... Please see the picture. Kim.. Brilliant! - esp. the hot bed cablby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotejohneato Dan, I take your point about stabilising the top of the Z threaded rod, I'll leave it alone, but it just doesn't look right. John Don't worry about it, I think it's meant as an extra feature for those hawaiian customers, put a hula-hula sockpuppet on top and enjoy the show Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quote3D-ES The first time I applied the tape, I tried the dry method. It was difficult to place the tape without trapping air bubbles.... I use a ?..something-something from an old copy machine, it's made of very soft silicone rubber, perfect for the job, still not easy though, gotta keep the tape in high incoming angle to keep the air from entering...and the glass should be fixed on the table oby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotejohneato I note in your photograph that you have produced a stabliser for the top of the Z drive threaded rod. Do you have a STL you could share for this part. John Ormerod 096 I have made no changes to the z drive whatsoever, it's the original acryl and printed parts, must be an optical illusion :-) ..so nothing to share for now, not much free time at the moment, hope to be of more useby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Very nice, thank you! Howto service the ormerod undercarriage parts using a pair of clamps (to not overtighten) Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotetru168 I test fit the linear bearings and found that 3 of linear bearing can slide smoothly but can't turn smoothly, i can feel resistance when turn it.... ...Is it normal? Yes, in the linear direction the balls are free to roll along the guiding rails, if you try to turn it there will be friction against those rails Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
as long ad the oil film is between the moving parts there will be no wear (and clean from abrasive parts that is), an oil film has a limited carrying capacity, the bearing surface of the standard nut is quite small, you could distribute the pressure by using a longer nut (what's nut to like) Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotedroftarts Quoteormerod168 Agreed, a centrifugal blower would be a better start, mounted top down, heat sink turned 90 degrees, close the hole from the old side mounted fan, what's not to like? ..and most importantly, implement a air activated micro switch in line with the heating element for safety in case the fan should fail Erik Haha, I suggested a very similar arrangement a few days agoby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Nice modeling! Move the y-axis-cross-rib over on the other side of the y-rod, mount the y-bearing-clamps from the other side? - better support for the corners and a cleaner triangle design, the part of cross rib that activates the micro switch could be printed out as a part of the bearing clamp Btw, I just noticed the varying downward force of the filament tube on the printer head as i movesby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotedc42 You need to look at the fan specifications. This one, which looks similar to the one supplied in the kit, has a higher specified flow rate at zero pressure than either of those two. However, the NMB one linked to by ormerod168 can produce a higher static pressure, so might be more suitable in an application like this where the output is constrained. Agreed, a centrifugal blower would bby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteJoar107 Just a thought how would it work with compressed air instead of the fan, it would be easy to regulate the flow and it would be very silent.... as long the compressor doesnt start /Joar #25 Yes, that would work just fine, a bit expensive in energy consumption though - and be very careful not to block the outlet if you feed it with 10bar :-) ..and make sure the air is clean, you donby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotekwikius OK. So I just want the exact same shape as the fan blade but turned around. I printed the last one as shown below before I saw your reply, but its a mirror image of the fan blade, which is incorrect? Yes, your image, acdsee/edit/flip/<-> Its now a CC model of the original ormerod fan, mounted inlet against inlet, the ormerod fan will be fed the air clockwise ..but as youby ormerod168 - Ormerod
..and if one was to re-design the whole thing this blower or something like that might be a better choice Farnell 1012796 - NMB TECHNOLOGIES - BM4515-04W-B30-L00 - FAN, BLOWER, 45X44X15MM, 12VDC Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotekwikius Is this what you mean. Note that I have changed the sign of the camber. Is this something like it? Higher Reynolds numbers now! regards Andy No this is what i mean, it will make the fan move more air for sure - or try to move more air that is - it will go down in speed and you may end up with the same result..and it may make a sound like a diving Stuka :-) Notice that it's a reveby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotekwikius Is that a polite way of saying I have it the wrong way around regards Andy Is that a polite way of saying my explanation made no sense at all? - dang, I thought my engrish was perfect :-)) Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Andy I'm so impressed by your scientific approach! what I would do if I had your setup, make a quick and dirty static wing test cut out a slice of aluminium width 10mm or so and roll it into a 40mm ring (maybe material from a beer can will do) cut a disc of the thin aluminium diameter 40mm cut out the profile of five wings toward the center twist the five wings clockwise put the D 40mm ring arby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Can't remember where I read it but someone somewhere used a thin layer of something called plumbers sealant and it solved his problem, the plumber product I know will handle the heat but don't seems to be very stickyby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteTMD_RS436 Now its working, seems that I will also need to buy a new SD Card along with a longer USB Cable. Paul USB Cable advice: get a more flexible one than the one supplied, it will put less train on the board connection, I use a Amazon Kindle Reader cable, very flexible, L=1780mm D=3mm Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotekwikius Ormerod168 Rory166 I hit the print button just before I read your posts! Bummer! :-) Quote Hey certainly not wasting my time. This is my 4th print. I'm learning with each one and they only take < 2 m of filamant per go! regards Andy Glad to hear that, and I sure can't give you any advice, just finished my first print ever - coathanger anyone? he he... I did try to print the snby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotedc42 I'm not using the front corner screws to support the bed, just the other three, so that I'm not relying so much on the mdf but more on the plywood ribs. However, I think the back corners of the mdf are drooping a little, so maybe I'll remake it in aluminium too. Do you think 3mm is needed, or would thinner aluminium suffice? Train of thought - think about this, take a look at the clampby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotekwikius Here is next incarnation. of the circular foil version regards Andy Yes that's what I'm talking about!, you don't realy have any airflow in the middle - but you got the direction wrong me think, the blades should be counter running with opposite curves, think about looking from the top on the fan wing without the casing and your ad-on, together they should look as an mirror'd longby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Short the lip on a grinder, polish the edges on a buffing wheel I made the tool from a piece of 16mm strapping material The tool insearted Ad spacer if neaded for better grip or lower mount, I used a bit of silicone rubber Mounting the clamp Removing the tool, did you remember to buff the edges? - now you will find out.. Clamp mounted Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteRory166 Relying on this analysis it would be interesting to try a design which would direct the airflow back into the fan all around the circle. In other words a fixed multibladed fan with blades angled opposite to the rotating fan or to put it another way a contra rotating fan fixed in place. Similar to the static blades in a jet engine compressor. Rory ..incoming train of thought - Ifby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteTMD_RS436 [*]The thick white power cable with the 4 crimps on them will not fit through the Duet-enclosure, I had to file the slot wider to allow for the two wires to fit. Agreed, I split the cable in two and removed the isolation on the crimps and this sure was no overstatement "You need a good, square, crimping tool, or the crimps won’t fit well in the terminals" Quote [*]The Duet-enby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteRory166 Hi All What about drilling and tapping the cog for a metal grub screw. This should provide a more positive fixing after all any backlash is undesirable. Rory I find it hard to believe that there would be any backlash there, it was a very tight fit, I was very impressed with the build quality, I would say 2-3kg, I did the press-on in a vise and supported the ND side, not on the inby ormerod168 - Ormerod