QuoteDennisCowdery Hi All, They are not trying to delude you - but RS are...RepRap are trying their best to support this project, and we certainly are a beta test crew. That is reality...Like you I am pissed - but only with RS. Could not agree more, when I received the marketing email from RS I did not know anything about RepRap or had any knowledge about 3D printing whatsoever, yes they wrote iby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotemarkbee What is the thickness of the plexiglas you are using and what type? Markus "I have replaced the entire MDF bed and ply pieces with (customised) laser cut 5mm Plexiglas / Acrylic parts..."by ormerod168 - Ormerod
Kevin Beautifull! - thank You very much for sharing! Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteRory166 Looking at the build instructions I cannot see any mention of the fifth mounting screw... Rory Only in Bed Plane Compensation, The old-fashioned way; by hand! Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteKK ...As mentioned else where by dc42 White PVC insulation tape works much better than the aluminium foil on the corners of the glass... Kevin Ormerod 245 (in South Africa) alu is a good reflecting material, but almost imposible to mount without crinkles and if thats the case flat white paint is better Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotedc42 Thinking further about it, I'll replace the 2 outside front screws by short ones, that clamp the aluminium and bed heater together but do not penetrate the MDF. That's what I did...and placed strong springs between the alu/bed heater and bed on 2 of the 3 remaining adjusting screws, no more fiddeling with nut, now I can keep an eye on the Dial Test Indicator (thanks Rory for naming theby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotereprappro ...There will be always a chance this can twist, as while the parts are a close fit, the plastic is trying to hold a round rod; however, tightening the bolts will considerably tighten the rotation... Ian RepRapPro tech support It is of cause important to line those parts up, assenbly documentation do not make that quite clear from x-axis assembly: " Ensure you have the parts lineby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotedavem ....The printer relies on tolerances of less than 0.4mm and yet the corners of the bed will flex up and down 10mm! Agreed - adjusting screws in 4 corners on a 3 bearing fundation makes no sense to me and will drive you nuts - I only adjust 3 screws, 2 in the corners and 1 in the middle front between the connection for the bed power cables and let the other two corners hang out as theby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quote ... Replica of MDF insulator.. Did, is made of 5mm alu, see the attached pics ..now what to do about the twisted alu bed (0.45mm off, doh) Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Rory QuoteAre you saying your machine has no serial number at all? ifaik the only serial number is the one written on the certificate delivered with the kit Quote...this picture is worth a thousand words in terms of RRP's engineering design. Have you ever seen a sensor cable split to go both ways round a motor shaft and sprocket? Never! - and I have been in the biz of Electromechanics sinceby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteJamesR10 I could solder the wires on, but I'm loath to do so. It's going to just have to be stared at I guess. Don't worry, it's just an inexpensive microswitch, just solder the wires onby ormerod168 - Ormerod
".. hanging by the belt, but still being moved by the motor.." Oh the poor thing! - Never give up, never surrender he he.. the X-carriage I received was a very tight press fit (nr. 168) Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteAndy The idea was to put the angle so It sits on top of the plastic where the screws are. Butt the upright part of the angle against the fan heatsink. Drill holes ( and maybe slots) for the screws to go through. The fan heatsink is quite cool at that point (from experiment with head at 200 deg c) so the ally angle should work well there. Add heatsink compound if you have it. Andy ..and evby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Hi Simon Great picture, shows your problem very well!, no the washers don't help much, better to go with my idea or Andy's alu angle idea or redesign it me think ..or better, instead of the washers, make a copy of the MDF heat insulator in (2-3mm) steel (or alu) and put in under the screws ...and you could make it a bit wider than the MDF bit, would help cooling the screws...and a bit longerby ormerod168 - Ormerod
If the heat from the aluminium cooling block is a problem for the plastic, then the same could be said for the screws, heat move to top through the screws the aluminium cooling block is isolated from the plastic by the MDF heat insulator, screws not As I am a bit from printing myself I do not know if this is a problem at all if heat sink compound is added between the alu block and the cooling blby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Open sided countersunk holes + softened plastic = move to the side a cap head screw with a washer under, larger than the coundersunk cavity would be better imho ..or better, instead of the washers, make a copy of the MDF heat insulator in steel an put in under the screwsby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Desperately trying to zero the printhead, what am I doing wrong here? My understanding is that using Pronterface sending the G92 Z0 command should define Home (as long as the power is on) The Get Pos do respond as expected with Z:0.0000 ..and yet the Z Home command crashes the printer head in the same position every time nomatter where on the Z axis I define Zero? Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Rory "Had you not noticed one of the arms seems to have fallen off!" they keep all small bodyparts in a separate museum, Eddie Izzard say so - so it must be true (LOL) Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
kwikius "..The brass parts and the bowden tube. I found this really tricky!.." Me too, especially the lineup of the parts, ptfe is quite soft and if you start wrong seems to try to move "out of the tupe" but thats an easy fix - inside diameter of the brass and tube is a bit over 2mm, a 2mm welding rod will fit right in, cut of 100mm of rod, buffed both end so not to scratch the ptfe used the roby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Ditto "Configuration file not found" (files was not on the card) did a copy of the files from the firmware zips sd-image lib to root, no change did a FAT32 format in the suplied adaptor, no change did a FAT32 format in an alternative adaptor, no change swapped card with an HD-Cam from Aldi, Duet board now read fine, Cam not so much he he..stops whilst trying to write to card from mem I guess yes,by ormerod168 - Ormerod
I would not worry about it, the bearings is in a closed system and the oil inside will last forever - just make sure to keep the sealing intact and the rods free from rust by adding a thin layer of oil now and then Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Rory Yes one would have to obtain two different 10mm fans with opposite rotation (if that exist) as the fan blades are made to curve for direction of rotation I will see if I can find a pair in the new year - have to order a new one anyway, the one delivered is terrible out of balance and the sound is driving me (more) crazy :-) Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Rory Thanks, good to know, I better keep it lightly oiled then I live in Denmark, my line of work is in repair of elektromekanics so I have no problem putting this most interesting thingie together...but 3D-printing is all new to me..or will be when I get there :-) Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
".. Is 3in1 oil acid free?.." I would think any universal household oil should be acid free but to be on the safe side, only use something marked as such about the worry of corrosion, I wonder if the rods are made of stainless steel? - the colour of the steel would make me believe that this is the case Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteRory166 .. my thoughts were with "copper slip" grease but.. Rory Copper grease or any other grease with metal particles is a BIG no-no for ball or roler type bearings! - a thin layer of acid free oil would be my choiceby ormerod168 - Ormerod
"Allen keys vs crosshead - I MUCH prefer the Allen heads" Ditto, I find long allan bits very usefull, these are the one I used for the Ormerod, from a box set marked "BaTo" (attached picture)by ormerod168 - Ormerod
Had the same proplem, washer interfering bearing, sagging print head, fixed with a 623zzby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Hello Mitch The teeth count on a 2 inch distance of belt is 26 (and 25 "in betweens")...or to put it in another way, the measured distance between tooth 1 and tooth 26 is 2 inch I would call it 12½ teeth per Inch Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotereprappro @dc42: We increased the size of the fan (from 40mm x 40mm x 10mm used on the Mendel/Huxley to 40mm x 40mm x 20mm) to increase the static pressure. The ..how about this idea - afaik the static pressure will increase if you join two fans running counter clockwise, my logic tells me (but sometime fail me) that it also would have to reduce the backwash, if this works it will be a veryby ormerod168 - Ormerod