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RepRapPro's Ormerod http://reprap.org/wiki/Ormerod
Re: I need your help: stl files for Ormerod 1 - 6 years ago
Quotedmould The only thing in that post I could see that might possibly cause a rejection is the phrase "normal people" which might be used as an indicator of an an offensive message. Unless "Christmas" is banned. But that's a big stretch and will be disproved if this post gets through OK - it's quite possibly just a case of a moderator hitting the wrong button. Dave Thank You much Dave - I gby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: Diryt och scratched Nozzle? - 6 years ago
My guess is that you failed in getting the grit out (is lodged further up in the nozzle) - or you filament is dirty You could try the Nophead fix: Quotehttp://hydraraptor.blogspot.se/2014/07/pla-pipe-cleaner.html So to recap: Heat to extrusion temperature and pull out the filament being used. Use a 0.4mm drill shank to clear the aperture. Insert PLA (preferably natural so you cby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: Source for STL for part 741 Quick-set hot end fan spacer? - 6 years ago
Quotegwild Erik, what circular cooling duct are you using in your photo 'overhang_test4.JPG'? I've looked on but can't see it. It looks interesting It's a manually modified version of this one from thingiverse: Later cut it open for higher airflow and changed the deflector plate to a Tuborg version, much better! This is how it looked before the cut, it's a very close shave, notice thby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: New firmware with grid bed compensation and other goodies - 6 years ago
Quotedc42 ...There are threads in this forum on how to correct it. One oldie here, please don't mind the silly wording :-) Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: PLA not sticking to bed - 6 years ago
Quotedc42 There are at least two issues here: 1. Filaments absorb moisture and this affects their printing properties. This is more a problem with ABS than with PLA. Yes - ABS sucks :-) Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: Source for STL for part 741 Quick-set hot end fan spacer? - 6 years ago
Quotegwild Hello, Because I've been having problems with overhangs curling up, I'd like to add a cooling fan to my Ormerod 2, model 528.2 with the older 'one piece stainless steel nozzle'. gwild Yes cooling is important but also the stretch of hot filament, e.g. think of the extruded filament as rubber bands added upon each others like outer layers, if you stretch them before adding they will tby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: PLA not sticking to bed - 6 years ago
QuotePeterSimpson After 3 months of struggling, I went back to basics and followed dmould's suggestion for zero-ing the Z axis. Having fitted the Mini Height Sensor I could now do the calibration in the centre of the bed (as suggested) without having to fiddle about in the corner. I did exactly what dmould suggested as far as sending the G92 Z0 command. To set this as the home position I raised tby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: Ormerod 2 problems - 6 years ago
Quotekpapr1 1) at the point where the beginning and end of a circle come together there is always a bit more material (it looks like a bump), does this have to do with the retraction setting? Yes most likely, can be a bit of a fiddle to get it right, will always be a compromise (short vs. long nozzle travel), my standard setting in Slic3r and Simplyfy3D is 4mm at 60mm/sec and works very well foby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: Ormerod 2 problems - 6 years ago
Quotekpapr1 Hi Erik, I did the G92 Z0 thing and things got better! I think I'm on the right track now, thanks a lot for your help! Yes much better! QuoteStill not perfect but that's OK, it's really cold now (it's snowing) and the heating element can't increase temp to more than 10 degrees. You sure picked a fine time to print a snowman :-) - no not perfect but way better than my first snowmaby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: Omerod 1 Nozzle Temperature slow to rise - 6 years ago
Hello Peter I can't advice you about PID settings but look in this string or do a search dc42 firmware - nozzle heater PID Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: Ormerod 2 problems - 6 years ago
Quotekpapr1 Should I increase the extrusion factor from the web interface? Maybe set it to 115% ??? You could re-slice it with a skirt, e.g. 10mm from model running 10 loops, this will give you time to adjust the exstusion factor from web interface and get it just right before the actual print starts - adjust until you see the loops touching, ad to that a tiny bit (first layer get extra heat frby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: Ormerod 2 problems - 6 years ago
Quotekpapr1 Thanks a lot for the info, if I get the printer to print decent I will invest on a spring loader. Can you please tell me where I can get it from? Thanks! Nothing to invest but filament and time :-) - just print the two parts and re-use the hardware from the original extruder + ad a spring, e.g. from a empty soap dispenser Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: Ormerod 2 problems - 6 years ago
Quotekpapr1 I went back to zero and printed the snowman. I have attached 2 pics of it (from & back). Any thoughts would be welcome. Looks like you are extruding too little filament, could be that your settings for M92, extruder steps per mm is off - or your filament is way thinner than you settings in slic3r, get this right first, then you can fine adjust your extrusion multiplier settings iby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: Ormerod 2 problems - 6 years ago
Quotekpapr1 Thanks a lot dc42. I will upgrade the firmware, reduce extruder motor current, increase nozzle temp + ambient temp and see how it goes. My config file says extruder motor current is 900mA, reduce this to 700mA say? The original setting is 800mA so should work, but when you get printing I highly recommend you print and use the brilliant spring loaded extruder designed by MasonStoneheby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: I need your help: stl files for Ormerod 1 - 6 years ago
Hello Kistenschieber The Ormerod 1 is a great printer, I just love the original design, many upgrades of the original printed parts has been made over time, these are a few of my favorite things: ...and then, A Funny Thing Happened on the Way to the Forum - got this message: A word you have used in your post has been banned from use. Please use a different word or contact the forum administratby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: New firmware with grid bed compensation and other goodies - 6 years ago
Thank you for your time and hard work! Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: Please help us test RRF 1.17 and DWC 1.14 release candidates - 6 years ago
Quotelolocaledo Hello, I'm going to test it this weekend. Can you give me information to use G29 instead G30 for grid bed compensation feature ?by ormerod168 - Duet
Re: E3D Clone 0.8mm Nozzle - 6 years ago
Quoteveryevil This is much better layer and fill adhesion but there must be a perimeter issue. Your 2 rounds of starting perimeters do not touch, you have to get that right (for starters), already there I would fine adjust the nozzle down by manually turning the threaded rod until they connect, you can turn the gear wheel directly or put a star nob on the top end Quote...also the fill doesnt gby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: E3D Clone 0.8mm Nozzle - 6 years ago
What is your layer height and layer width settings? - a good bonding require a good squeeze between nozzle and former layers, my rule of thumb (when good bonding is important) is layer height times 1,5 Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: Diamond Hotend - 6 years ago
Hello Alex Could be done but I don't find the Ormerod design to be the best platform for this because of the unsupported outer end of the x-arm and the hinged hot end (the weight of the hot end - the varying down-force of 3 x bowden cable) Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: Hotend not giving heat. - 6 years ago
Quotedc42 That file looks correct to me. Are you certain that is the config.g file in the /sys folder of the SD card in the Duet? I have T0 last but guess its not needed any more? Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: Mounting dc42's Mini height sensor board - 6 years ago
Quotedc42 I recommend aiming for 1.5mm. Below 1mm there is a risk of the sensor contacting blobs or curl-up on the print, and above 2mm there is a risk that the sensor will not trigger. Good advice on playing it safe, just want to note that 2,5mm never failed on my two machines, both with 4mm glass directly on the PCB heater, even think I could raise that a bit with mat black under the glass butby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: Ormerod IDEX - 6 years ago
Quotedc42 Now that I have added IDEX (independent dual X carriage) support to RRF Nice! (had to look that up) Quote I am wondering whether I can convert my dual-extrusion Ormerod to IDEX. I am thinking along these lines: - Use a modified version of DaveK's aluminium X arm, with a second X motor mounted on the opposite side and a little higher or lower than the first. One of the motors wouldby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: Extruder stuttering - 6 years ago
QuoteSardi It only happens during infill which is done at 35mms, for everything else (including retraction at 145mms) it does not stutter. If your infill extrusion width is greater than you perimeter ditto that would explain it (my setting is 150%) QuoteWhat confuses me it that it starts to stutter all of a sudden. Temperature was the same all the way (170), speed also, nothing changed so thatby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: I URGENTLY NEED THE LARGE GEAR. Anybody here who could help out? - 6 years ago
I got 5 extras from Mario's printer, ping me if you don't get any local (UK?) offers Erik, Denmarkby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: Heat Bed default - 6 years ago
Quotemat_fr It can reach 105 if I let him enough time (like 30mn or so, I never measured but it seems endless).. Better isolation under the bed will help a lot, my Ormerod 1 with the original Alpine ATX PSU (11.00V at Duet in) goes to 116.7C in 11 minutes .. and 150.2 in 20 minutes, not recommended with this type of isolation though :-) Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: Trouble with bed level on my Ormerod 2 - 6 years ago
Quotedc42 Quoteormerod168 If your smooth rods is twisted you will always end up with one corner low or high (if your glass is perfectly flat that is) - the fix is to adjust your acrylic end parts, here's an old posting about it While we wait on (for) a functional auto-probing...: Erik, what problems are you having with the auto bed compensation? The 4-level probing scheme can compensate for twisby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: Trouble with bed level on my Ormerod 2 - 6 years ago
Quotemat_fr ...I checked the bed level, and one corner (X200,Y200) is low by more than one mm. I'd like to correct this, only I don't know how I can set correctly this particular angle as there is only one screw in the middle of the Y axis and the other angle is set OK... Does this means the bed is bent? What can I do about it?.. If your smooth rods is twisted you will always end up with one corby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: Replaced the cooling fan with a noctua one. I'm sane again! - 6 years ago
Quoteimproprietary I'm curios about how your setup looks like, maybe a manifold could be designed to cool both heat breaks and the part being printed, a bit ala the squid arm manifold. Another alternative Hot-end cooling duct: Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod