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RepRapPro's Ormerod http://reprap.org/wiki/Ormerod
Re: Blobbing... technical term! - 7 years ago
I only printed with raft once, but remember it was laying down plastic nice and thick, do you hear a knocking sound from the extruder? - or tried to lower the printing speed? - the repeating pattern seems a bit strange though.. Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: Blobbing... technical term! - 7 years ago
The picture is a bit too low res. to tell anything Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: New firmware 1.09k-dc42 - 7 years ago
QuoteLuke_Duckwalker...And I couldn't find also the post you referred to manually patch pronterface. Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: How to use MatterControl or Cura? - 7 years ago
QuoteTreito..how can I use MatterControl or Cura (2.1.2) with my printers? These slicers use absolute Extruder values instead of relative. Lots of info in this old string, do not know if still valid for the new versions, but for me, Franks plugin worked just fine Cura extrusion rate too high: Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: Building a more accurate Ormerod - 7 years ago
QuoteFirefox3D Thanks Dario, are those in the repository, did I just miss them? Latest dxf design should be here: ...according to trevmas: Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: Maximum temperature for PTFE-liner? - 7 years ago
QuoteFilafarmFilaPrint will perform out all the other materials regards to adhession, releasing, dutrability, healthiness for the User and the look of the bottom of the printed parts But all that doesn't matter if the glue fails - is the adhesiveness of the glue under the FilaPrint better than BuildTak? - do you have comparing pull-test data to show? Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: Mounting dc42's Mini height sensor board - 7 years ago
QuoteTreito Erik in that case your first layer was too deep. BuildTak needs a complete different handling, but for me it didn't last long. I already killed three pieces within a week each. With a higher first layer the BuildTak would let go of the model and I would end up with a banana anyway, here a picture from the top of the model that pulled the BuildTak of the glass: ..and from the underby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: Printing replacement parts for ormerod 1 - 7 years ago
QuotePeterSimpson Thanks again Erik. The parts arrived today and look brilliant . No problem Peter, glad to help! QuoteI decided to fit the version for the shorter nuts initially (thanks for the nuts!) as previously I had noticed that the top end of the threaded rod wobbled significantly as it rotated and thought that with the longer nut (from ebay) might cause significant binding, restrictingby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: Mounting dc42's Mini height sensor board - 7 years ago
Quotedmould I am considering trying "BuildTak" which should allow me to use fully automatic Z homing, but I understand that it is a bit delicate. I don't find it delicate (used a hammer and chisel to remove print) at all but the glue will fail and you will end up with an uneven surface impossible to zero on - here a picture from the glass side, white spots is air bubbles Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: Printing replacement parts for ormerod 1 - 7 years ago
@Peter Printed bobtidey modified version: ...and jstck´s extended one: will send Monday Friday Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: bed drawings laser cut parts - 7 years ago
QuoteDavek0974 Fair enough, just thinking out loud Keep doing that - so am I, the more the merrier BTW, to me helix problem sound more like a case of twisted smooth rods Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: bed drawings laser cut parts - 7 years ago
QuoteDavek0974Could do a heavy sub-bed which would hold the heater on top and be mounted in the normal way to the three-point triangle? Getting a bit high on the Z axis though. If I had that problem I would rather go for thicker glass, 4mm (what I use) or even 5mm - and lose the aluminium heat spreader to save weight, it not needed Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: bed drawings laser cut parts - 7 years ago
QuoteDavek0974 Thanks Treito, appreciated. All the links for ormerod1 and 2 design files was posted by trevmas in your "Laser cut Aluminium X-Arm & Rib kits...." thread: ..but helix seems to want a rectangular bed and AFAIK Ormerod 2 was made with the triangular bed only QuotehelixI did see the aluminum triangular bed, however that would not allow me to twist the PCB back into place. dby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: bed drawings laser cut parts - 8 years ago
Quotehelix I did see the aluminum triangular bed, however that would not allow me to twist the PCB back into place. This fixed the PCB for another user Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: Is this underextrusion? - 8 years ago
Another way to skin the cat, slice your model with a generously number of skirt outlines Zero the nozzle as you normally do and at the center of the print Start the print and use those extra skirt outlines to adjust the nozzle height by turning the threaded rod, clockwise up, counter-clockwise down, every feel able click amounts to 0.016mm BTW, my zero on paper routine (with a perfectly cleanby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: USB fixed! - 8 years ago
Quotetrevmas The Quick set brass nut you have shown is for the Fisher not the Ormerod. Whilst they are both M4 thread I think the Ormerod nut is 4mm thick whilst the Fisher is 2.2 mm thick. Ormerod tapered nut, one-piece-nozzle.. ..and quick-set-nozzle Quote..If using a 0.3 nozzle, which seems to be the only one available.. You can easily expand that to 0.5mm with a proper quality drillby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: Laser cut Aluminium X-Arm & Rib kits.... - 8 years ago
Beautiful and well thought through mod, thanks much for sharing! Quotetrevmas...The angle is thinner than I would have originally liked at 1.5mm but as it's bolted to the ends and the bottom it keeps it nice and square with no movement or twist that I can detect. Oh I agree, it is the sides of the angle and the boxed structure that makes you design strong Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: Laser cut Aluminium X-Arm & Rib kits.... - 8 years ago
QuoteTreito The Ormerod 2 is designed with a different distance for the rods and the motor bracket is mounted on the opposite side. Yes but the distance for the rods is defined by the reused acrylic parts so should not be a problem Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: Laser cut Aluminium X-Arm & Rib kits.... - 8 years ago
QuoteDarathy I wonder could the y brackets be adopted to Ormerod 2? should not be a problem, guess Dave will them equal, make screw holes for micro switch in both parts so only the countersunk holes is mirrored Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: Laser cut Aluminium X-Arm & Rib kits.... - 8 years ago
QuotePeterSimpson I am confused though! Do I order the parts from Dave, or from Erik?? Time is short and I have a business to run so I do hope Dave will make them available QuoteThe second picture in erik's post (y-end-support5) appears to be different from my Ormerod1! Erik's photograph shows the plastic part 'y-axis-idler-bracket' as having two fixing holes onto the end plate, whereas my Orby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: Laser cut Aluminium X-Arm & Rib kits.... - 8 years ago
QuotebartdietrichErik: with your aluminium side-bits, I assume you don't have any problems with the horizontal guide rods being slightly misaligned and the bed height varying depending on whether it is at y=0 or y=200? You will of cause have to adjust the acrylic end parts but only once, as the picture shows, the original assembly slips right in between the alu support end parts, when adjusting,by ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: Laser cut Aluminium X-Arm & Rib kits.... - 8 years ago
QuoteDavek0974... as well as possibly some other parts that were not able to be made before... Hmmm... :-) Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: A taller ormerod - 8 years ago
QuoteFpexThe leadscrew is a M5 0.8 standard i guess Correct droftarts, Round rod specification: Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: A couple of questions - 8 years ago
I think the length of the bowden cable itself require 4mm, this is my setting with the standard Ormerod 1 nozzle Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: Need stl for z motor brace - 8 years ago
Found a much better one :-) Improved Z lower mount: Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: G-code for retraction at the end - 8 years ago
QuoteSardiNow it does the retract of 15mm, but the G1 X0 Y210 is done with the ultra slow speed of 1mms and I dont know what is the cause of that. Have you tried specifying the speed? e.g G1 X0 Y210 F5000 Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: Clogged nozzle just won't clear - 8 years ago
Quotestatic65What's the next step? I saw a post on using a heat gun and compressed air to clean a quick-set nozzle, but I don't have any air tools (also it's an Ormerod 1 so not quick-set). I've ordered some 0.5mm drill bits to see if I can clear it from the other side but not sure if that's a good idea. 1) clear the first part with a 3mm drill bit, hand held so you can feel the drill bit follby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Re: New Ormerod 1 user - 8 years ago
Quotecatohagen..Homing the axes results in crashing in X, because the extruder fan and body is bumping into the controller housing(duet board)...so i have to lift z axis 50-60mm from bed to stay clear....is this normal ? No its not normal if nothing extra is added to the fan intake that is (like a deflector to prevent backwash from the fan) Must be the duet housing.. ..or the Z-extrusionby ormerod168 - Ormerod