Quotedc42 I used to have the Duet connected by cable to a laptop, which was wirelessly connected to the router. To do this, I bridged the wireless and wired network connections. This is very easy to do under Windows: go to control panel->network connections, select both the wired and wireless adapters, right click and select Bridge. I didn't need to use a crossover cable, despite it being a faby MrCrispi - Ormerod
I've cracked it You set me off on the right track Matt - many thanks. Turned out it was not the IP address, but the default gateway...I had the original default gateway on the duet, and needed to change it to be the same as the laptop Many thanks for all your patient help Matt & @DC42...as ever, you always help me to get thereby MrCrispi - Ormerod
Very clearly & fully explained...exactly what I needed - thank you; I had indeed not modified the reprap.htm file in the right way. It, at first sight, all now looks good because I can see now that the reprap.htm file is calling on the apache server on the laptop, (if I turn off the server the page stops working and starts working again when I turn it back on and it also loses formatting ifby MrCrispi - Ormerod
Quotedc42 MrCrispi, I installed Apache 2.2 under Windows 7 x64, downloaded via . Then I created directory reprap within C:\Program Files (x86)\Apache Software Foundation\Apache2.2\htdocs and I put the css, js, img and fonts directories inside that. OK - Apache (2.25) installed and all appears to be working OK (according to Apache monitor), reprap directory created, files moved into that directoby MrCrispi - Ormerod
Perfect - many thanks (as ever) @DC42 - I'll give it a go...by MrCrispi - Ormerod
I would like to now try running this splendid interface for the first time on a locally hosted server (ongoing web access is a pain for me) but am daunted by the "just set up a local web server" bit - can someone please point me to a (preferably simple!) way to do this?by MrCrispi - Ormerod
Hi Antonio, For what it is worth, a few bits of advice from my personal experience: 1) Stick with it - it WILL come right. Many of us had significant problems getting started (it took me 5 days to get any form of first print) but virtually everything can be solved to a point where you can start printing - after that you will find you begin to work it out for yourself what is going on 2) Don'tby MrCrispi - Ormerod
Quotedc42 There is so much backwash from the fan that when I first assembled my Ormerod, I thought the fan was running the wrong way. A fan inlet duct greatly reduces the backwash and may also make the fan more efficient. You can find the one I use (based on a design by kwikius) here . I LOVE your backwash fan deflector @DC42 (and yes, I probably should get out more!) - works perfectly with noby MrCrispi - Ormerod
Actually I think you are nearly there...and yes, your first print still looks better than mine did . My top tips now to get across the finishing line would be: 1) make sure the bed is really nice and clean and dust free before you print - a quick wipe with acetone before every print works really well - will ensure really good adhesion for the all important first layer 2) As per @88Zombies suggby MrCrispi - Ormerod
You're a star...what would we all do without you? Many thanksby MrCrispi - Ormerod
Quotedc42 Hi MrCrispi, if you are getting 2000C with the thermistor disconnected, your H value is too far away from zero. Try H-35 or H-34 etc. until you get a -273 reading with thermistor disconnected. Hmmm... if I gradually decrease the value of H, the reported temp with the thermistor disconnected gradually drops away until H-24 which gives a reading of -55 , but H-25 (or even H-24.1) gives 2by MrCrispi - Ormerod
Genius @DC42 - adjusting H to -36 corrected my ambient temperature and now causes a temperature reading of 2000 when thermistor is disconnected and gives the error message - thank you Thanks also @appjaws1 - indeed I was using the one piece and the heat sink was blocking the ducts - I have reverted to the modified 2 piece so that my heat sink is in the correct orientation to let a decent amoby MrCrispi - Ormerod
Hot end fan does indeed come on when thermistor is disconnected and USB power is supplied. Hot end for me has never read -273 ... Used to read between -30 and -50 from memory. Whether I disconnect the blue and green wires at your probe board or duet board end, or just remove green wire from thermistor itself, temp reading as always -2 to -5 and all springs to life properly when all is connected.by MrCrispi - Ormerod
I have just installed and commissioned my new kit 5 - all went in fine, looks great and everything appears to be working fine, BUT I have two commissioning niggles that I would appreciate some advice on: 1) when I disconnect the hot end thermistor during commissioning testing, as per DC's (excellent) instructions, the temperature reading doesn't drop to -273 as it apparently should, it only dropsby MrCrispi - Ormerod
Quotedmould I'd like to thank MrCrispi for the plate design. Dave (#106) You are very welcome Dave I have got so much out of this forum as I've found my way through, I'm just delighted to be able to contribute a little something back...by MrCrispi - Ormerod
Another good thought Kim, thanks....BTW, I'm printing out your revised fan duct even as I type - kudos, looks great - really hoping it'll sort out a few curling issues I'm having on overhangs...by MrCrispi - Ormerod
I've printed about a kg of filament now and have never oiled any part of the printer - no worrying noises to report so far, but increasingly feeling like I ought to be doing something on the preventative maintenance front! - should I oil, and if so what bits, what with and how often? All input, however controversial, gratefully receivedby MrCrispi - Ormerod
Nice work @Davek0974 - kudos for picking up the idea and running with it - this is exactly what I had in mind when I posted it - you've got to love this community haven't you?by MrCrispi - Ormerod
QuoteBlitza Sorry i cant buy as private Person on RS, and the Shops is still closed from reprappro and links me to another shop were the spools have 20 cm Diameter >< i Need 12 Diameter spools @Blitza - what country do you live in? In most countries RS do indeed sell perfectly happy to private individuals (as their sales of several hundred thousand Raspberry Pi's demonstrates!) - suggest yby MrCrispi - Ormerod
Also happy to pay the extra to speed up deliveryby MrCrispi - Ormerod
As previously posted I've been wanting to swap the mdf bed for something much stiffer for some time. I didn't however want to go in for wholesale changes, so @DC42's triangular design in 3mm Aluminium, based on a modified version of the original bed seemed ideal (thanks again @DC42). I did not however have the time or the inclination to manufacture one myself, so modified the original .dfx file fby MrCrispi - Ormerod
Hi @DC42 - Sounds great...full Monty for me please with kit 5 - how do you want to handle payment?by MrCrispi - Ormerod
Thanks - I'll check it out...by MrCrispi - Ormerod
@DC42 do you happen to have a dimensioned picture of your design I could have? - it looks like a great compromise between weight and ease of replacing the standard partby MrCrispi - Ormerod
Really good input Kim; thanks very much. I am lucky enough to have access to a set of race car engineers, so high quality materials (including carbon fibre, titanium etc.) and the equipment to work them is possible so I might try a few experiments and let you know how I get on. I am basically looking to mod as little of the machine as possible in this area while stiffening up the bed. I would alsby MrCrispi - Ormerod
Like many others on the forum I have been completely frustrated by the on going warping of my MDF bed and I am now considering re-fabricating it in laser cut aluminium...the basic question now popping into my head before I proceed is that given that the MDF bed is actually called "MDF insulating bed" in the parts list, is it dangerous for the hot bed to be in direct contact with an aluminium replby MrCrispi - Ormerod
Yes please - count me in for a fully populated oneby MrCrispi - Ormerod
Big thanks to @static65 for highlighting that the aluminium sheet can indeed be the wrong way up...mine, clearly like many others was and is now corrected - I think one that RRP really need to mod the instructions for...by MrCrispi - Ormerod
Love 'em, Love 'em, Love 'em Thank you so much @Iamburny for this beautiful upgrade. Like @dmould I was suffering from too much backlash and could easily get 0.2mm variation when trying to set Z=0, and this straight replacement has completely sorted that...a straight swop for a beautiful looking part that gives an immediate improvement in print quality - couldn't be happier! I also remain chiby MrCrispi - Ormerod