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RepRapPro's Ormerod http://reprap.org/wiki/Ormerod
Re: New firmware 0.96i - 11 years ago
I've been running my printer for ages without problems on 0.78d-dc42 but today it just decided it didn't want to read the contents of the SD card any more. I reflashed the firmware and the problem went away (phew)... anyone else experienced this before? I figured I may as well upgrade to a newer version while I've got the laptop connected so I've flashed 0.96i-zpl and updated the web interface fby static65 - Ormerod
Re: Printing around captive parts - 11 years ago
I thought about doing this the other day but didn't try it in the end. I think you'd at least need to print to a sacrificial pillar after the print is paused, otherwise thanks to oozing you won't have 'full flow' when you resume. Two gcode files could be a good plan, at least then you can precisely control the point at which it stops.by static65 - Ormerod
Re: Anyone interested in an LCD control panel for the Ormerod? - 12 years ago
Ah well, it's best to go for a hardware combo that you know will work anyway. I kept hold of 2 of these displays with the idea of hacking them into something but I haven't got/developed the software skills. If you still have these going next month I suspect I will part with some money for one.by static65 - Ormerod
Re: Another alternative Hot-end cooling duct. - 12 years ago
Turns out my rotated STLs are over 614kb so I can't upload them here, but netfabb is easy enough to use and it has a free version: Netfabb basic Just open the STL in netfabb, click Part > Rotate and enter the value (0.1 for the bellhouse, -0.2 for the cooling duct) and check the X-axis radio button, then click the Rotate button. Then you can click Part > Export Part > As STL and save yoby static65 - Ormerod
Re: Anyone interested in an LCD control panel for the Ormerod? - 12 years ago
Hmm, I have a 4.3" display kicking around I got from a Rohde and Schwarz handout advertising their software defined radio. It's apparently 1280x800, possibly touchscreen but it's hard to pin down the spec. It's an FPC4304006 (I think the 4005 version is non-touchscreen). Do you know if the board you're planning would be compatible with such a display? Touchscreen function aside of course. Just loby static65 - Ormerod
Re: The Stupidly Tall-merod - 12 years ago
I had considered that, but the rest of the 'blade' section of the sword was fine up to around 600mm, at which point it had enough flex to start noticably moving about along the x-axis (the widest dimension of the blade was aligned with the y-axis to combat the wobble I foresaw). By 830mm it hadn't gone far enough out to overhang on any layers but was much more visible. Each new layer of filamentby static65 - Ormerod
Re: The Stupidly Tall-merod - 12 years ago
Sorry for not replying, been fairly busy of late and not been doing much printing. Got my aluminium profile and 12mm rod from the same place as RRP. I didn't tap the first two M6 holes i screwed in but they wore my arm out so much I ended up tapping the rest! I already had a cheap tap and die set kicking around, pretty much as kwikius suggested. Not been able to afford all the bits to make the eby static65 - Ormerod
Re: The Stupidly Tall-merod - 12 years ago
Cheers dc42, just noticed I have G21 in there twice as well. It's a bit frankenstein-esque as I've been updating it as I go. Time for some cleanup. Thanks isonoob, Simplify3D is looking VERY tempting!by static65 - Ormerod
Re: The Stupidly Tall-merod - 12 years ago
Next issue: slicing large models. Slic3r lets out a little whimper and rolls over dead when I go above a certain size. Looking at various forums it seems like it's run out of memory even though I have 16GB, I guess it's just not grabbing enough of it. Does anybody know of any other decent slicers? Simplify3D looks the dog's proverbials, but such niceness is never free. Has anyone taken the plungby static65 - Ormerod
Re: The Stupidly Tall-merod - 12 years ago
Quotedc42 You have it the right way round; but in the homing files supplied by RRP, it's the X axis that is homed twice (once fast and once slow) not the Y axis. Whoops, I see what you mean now. I had an RRP Huxley too up until recently, which does the double microswitch homing. I get the two confused. Quotedc42 The microswitch triggers when the x-carriage is a set height above where the microsby static65 - Ormerod
Re: The Stupidly Tall-merod - 12 years ago
Quotedc42 I think you mean the X-axis, not the Y-axis. Yes, you could change the homez.g and homeall.g files to do that. But it doesn't give you anything that you can't do with a z-probe - and if you use my firmware fork, it does the slow/fast homing automatically when you use a z-probe. I thought the Y-axis was the axis on which the bed moves and the X-axis is the one on which the nozzle moves?by static65 - Ormerod
Re: The Stupidly Tall-merod - 12 years ago
Ah but as long as the microswitch is set correctly would this be a problem? It would home the same way as the Y-axis: fast until triggering the microswitch, then slow until triggering it again. Would the initial fast homing be too inaccurate and end up in a bed collision? I wouldn't have thought this would be problem given that there is a few mm play before the x-carriage hits the x-arm.by static65 - Ormerod
Re: The Stupidly Tall-merod - 12 years ago
Using 078d-dc42 firmware has made a fair few improvements over 0.59 (obviously). Homing speed is decent now, but as many have suggested I've been bringing it down manually before homing anyway. If I ever do fit a microswitch I'll up the speed to 300. Eager to get some new tools and a 24V power supply and get the larger bed fitted nowby static65 - Ormerod
Re: New experimental firmware 0.78d-dc42 and web interface 0.98 - 12 years ago
Yep, same coordinates. I'm using the same homing files as I was in 0.59. As it's only myself that's experienced this it's probably a one-off, or some kind of configuration error on my part, probably when I was running 0.59. It hasn't stopped me printing as I have a manually levelled bed and I home manually anyway.by static65 - Ormerod
Re: New experimental firmware 0.78d-dc42 and web interface 0.98 - 12 years ago
Quotedc42 Did you move the blue wire from the z probe to its new position on the expansion connector? Yep sorry, thats what I meant by "I have moved the probe pin" but I wasn't being very clear. If I stick my finger right under the probe it still reads up in the 900's, just seemed odd that the reading changed between firmware versions. Calculated in a different way perhaps?by static65 - Ormerod
Re: New experimental firmware 0.78d-dc42 and web interface 0.98 - 12 years ago
Finally came out of the stone age and upgraded to 0.78d. When I was using 0.59, with the nozzle at 1mm from the bed the z-probe (unmodulated) read around 930. Now in the same position it reads around 500. I have moved the probe pin so it's not that. I have M558 P1 set in my config.g, which I believe is correct for this probe type. Should probably mention that I have a 2mm spacer on the nozzle mouby static65 - Ormerod
Re: The Stupidly Tall-merod - 12 years ago
Cheers! Does anybody have a supplier for large volume filament reels? I can only find one UK supplier doing 2.3kg reels and they're in the region of £75, no thanks. I'd pay that for 5kg though. And to answer an earlier question properly: homing Z from 750mm took a full 13 minutes and 48 seconds How do I up the homing speed? It seems to be encapsulated in a G30 command, but I'm sure there's anby static65 - Ormerod
Re: Cable sizes - 12 years ago
I used 7/0.2mm stranded cable to extend my wiring loom. A visual check looked about right (very technical i know), and the spec sheet says its rated up to about 2A per cable which should be enough for a 12V 40W cartridge heater if I remember anything about basic electronics. That is of course doubling up on the heater wires as per the original cable.by static65 - Ormerod
Re: The Stupidly Tall-merod - 12 years ago
QuoteDavek0974 One other thing to look out for when you start tweaking speeds is the y axis acceleration, too much and with a tall print on the be, inertia could break the joint at the bed level and it'll fall over. Yeah cheers that's my main concern with a heavier print. I don't normally need to use a brim unless the object footprint is really small but I may use one for big prints to give it aby static65 - Ormerod
Re: The Stupidly Tall-merod - 12 years ago
Success! 8 hour print. I removed all the custom max speeds and accelerations I had set in my config.g, so this was done at whatever the default is for 0.59. There's a pretty unsightly seam working its way up around the whole thing at the layer change, and it's entirely not watertight but it's consistent quality all the way to the top. There's no apparent flexing in Z, and to the naked eye theby static65 - Ormerod
Re: The Stupidly Tall-merod - 12 years ago
Nice! Is that an Iron Man arc reactor I see next to it? Printing a 750mm vase now. It took me three attempts to find a scad script that didn't crash when I tried to generate a vase that high! Then I had issues with spiral vase mode in slic3r randomly missing one of the corners every now and then, which is a shame as it was really quick! It's now printing minus spiral vase mode. 3125 layers! Estby static65 - Ormerod
Re: The Stupidly Tall-merod - 12 years ago
Ah good points, I'll keep the speed on the low end of the spectrum. Unfortunately the M5 rod wasn't sent in a cardboard tube or anything particularly protective and arrived looking rather curved. It was the cheapest one on ebay, get what you pay for. I've done my best to straighten it out but there's still some minor inconsistencies. I've already restrained the top of the M5 rod with this designby static65 - Ormerod
Re: The Stupidly Tall-merod - 12 years ago
Quotedc42 How long will it take you to lower the X axis to the bed? AGES What's the maximum recommended speed so that the Z probe works reliably? Or is it more a limitation of the threaded rod design. I've upped the speed from 200 to 400. I've got a couple of microswitches, just haven't bothered to look at fettling my g-code to work with them yet. I'm assuming I could bring Z down much quickeby static65 - Ormerod
The Stupidly Tall-merod - 12 years ago
Most of the parts have arrived for my tall-merod and I've built the frame. In a moment of recklessness I went for 550mm parts for the Y axis and 1000mm for Z. The bed I've ordered is only 300mm x 200mm but that leaves me room for future upgrades, plus as long as the object's footprint is within that size I can theoretically print up to 400mm wide! I'm still using the 200x200 bed for now as I'm wby static65 - Ormerod
Re: Tall-merod - 12 years ago
Did a bit of dumpster diving at work and came up with a 24V fan of the right size, but unfortunately no power supply. Hopefully RRP can supply a belt and a few other bits I want. Found a local glass supplier. Will post some pics when I've got it all put together. Thanks again for all the pointers!by static65 - Ormerod
Re: Tall-merod - 12 years ago
Thanks for the assistance, parts now ordered: Aluminium extrusions Smooth rods M5 leadscrew Long M5 nut X arm upgrade kit 200x300mm bed 6mm 24V 40W heater cartridge 1M 26 way flat ribbon cable In discussion with DaveK on custom heater block and bed mounting plate Just need a power supply and a longer Y axis belt and I'm good to go!by static65 - Ormerod
Re: Prints not sticking - 12 years ago
Ah, so not the firmware at all then. Makes sense! But if you define Z=0 as the height at which it grips the paper as opposed to just touching the bed, isn't that going to make the first layer height slightly higher and prone to poor adhesion? That's the way I see it at least, but I stand ready to be corrected! I recall doing the paper thing with older versions of the reprappro firmware and havinby static65 - Ormerod
Re: Prints not sticking - 12 years ago
Quotedc42 ...lower the nozzle until it just grips a sheet of paper between it and the bed, then send G92 Z0 to define that point as Z=0. Then print. I'm using your 0.59-dc42 firmware (old I know, but its been working perfectly for me), no bed/orthogonal compensation, and I manually adjust the nozzle until it's just touching the bed (glass with kapton cleaned with isopropyl alcohol) and then sendby static65 - Ormerod
Re: Tall-merod - 12 years ago
After seeing the post in RRP's news I just knew I had to get in on this, I've bought smooth rods, aluminium extrusions and an M5 leadscrew (not sure of pitch until it turns up) for both Y and Z extensions. Might print up some kind of fancy folding tray to deal with the slack wires coming down from the X arm. Just started looking at getting a 24V PSU to give a bigger heatbed some more grunt - whaby static65 - Ormerod
Re: Another alternative Hot-end cooling duct. - 12 years ago
Printed without support here too. Some great design work here 232, many thanks! My Ormerod now has a jet engine strapped to the front of it. I did notice that the parts are rotated slightly in the x-axis. I adjusted the bellhouse by 0.1 and the cooling duct by -0.2 degrees in netfabb to get it to slice nicely and print 'face flat' on the bed.by static65 - Ormerod