ACME screw is not bad but there is a lot more friction involved - might limit your accelerations etcby Davek0974 - Ormerod
My plasma cutter can run 9000mm/min, its pretty scary at that speed! The mini-mill would probably do it, never tried. The secret is to design for the intended use, the mini-mill is built from 15 and 20mm solid slabs of aluminium, it's very heavy but its built for milling, there are no opposing forces in 3d printing, pretty much like the plasma cutter - the head on that is much lighter and thereby Davek0974 - Ormerod
Just butting in,,, I read a lot of comments about low mass at the head, not moving the printed part etc.... I have built three CNC machines and just finished converting a large mill to CNC and was wondering what sort of speed and acceleration we are talking here??? If anyones interested, I will be selling the last full build i did as it will be replaced by the bigger machine. I designed it forby Davek0974 - Ormerod
Quotecua193 Dave, "only if I adjust the bed immediately before starting the print as the Ormerod is not solid enough to retain its adjustment well." Exactly what I was saying months ago as my Ormerod 1 fell to bits. I was in a worse position as I couldn't print replacement parts & had to make an all metal chassis. I used some 1/2" dural which I've had for 40 years waiting to be used & 4by Davek0974 - Ormerod
Thanks all, i will browse the Arduino site. It has also been suggested to use a small 3ph motor with gearbox and a small VFD as these have ramp up/down built in. I ave no idea if they have a start/stop limit though as this will need to trigger and cycle at up to 25 times a minuteby Davek0974 - Ormerod
I have been tasked with a small project for the day-job, we need a feed/rewind system for a foil printing machine. It's a simple task - the device needs to take a start signal from the machine, accelerate a motor, run for a preset time, decelerate and stop. Now, we can either go with a timed duration and adjustable speed or a fixed duration taken from the machine as a start & stop signal wiby Davek0974 - Ormerod
I'm still here Selling via my own site and eBay only now. Daveby Davek0974 - Ormerod
Hi the printed part is the bit i don't supply I do the aluminium parts. I can only suggest contacting the guy that runs the site linked. Daveby Davek0974 - Ormerod
Hi, its a joint effort as a clip needs printing too, have a look here..... 3d Print And Stuffby Davek0974 - Ormerod
Now have aluminium CNC machined bed kits for MK2 machinesby Davek0974 - Ormerod
Ok thanks guys, that answers it thenby Davek0974 - Ormerod
Anyone happen to know if the Y cross-rib and Y-support from a Mk2 would fit a Mk1 machine??by Davek0974 - Ormerod
Thanks, i guess thats one drawback of the price being so low.by Davek0974 - Ormerod
Hi all, looking into some new projects, Ormerod related I was hoping to ask if those out there with measuring tools could let me know the diameter of their LM12UU linear bearings please? The documents I have all list it as 21mm but I have some measuring at 21.6mm which is way outside a machining tolerance i feel. Are there different types or just not really LM12UU bearings after all??? Thaby Davek0974 - Ormerod
Glad you liked the bed Peter, I think it will be an improvement, sorry i cant help with the other issue I'll be away for a couple of weeks, but orders can still be placed for the bed supports, x-arm kits and now the heat spreader platesby Davek0974 - Ormerod
Ball-screws would be good and with the right nuts will be zero backlash, but, they are far heavier. They would be ideal if building a serious size machine like a 450mm sq print area or more. I recently built a mini-mill with 16mm ball-screws and a 400mm bed, the accuracy is amazing. Don't forget lots of machined aluminium partsby Davek0974 - Ormerod
Yes but the Duet uses micro stepping AFIK, even with something minimal like 500 micro-steps, the differences will be way below the possibilities of 3d printing therefore invisible, therefore irrelevant surely. We are after all, printing with a semi liquid plastic which will not always flow exactly where we put it, it also contracts while cooling and so on. What i am saying is, there is little poiby Davek0974 - Ormerod
Not got my one here so i don't know the pulley sizes but they are small.by Davek0974 - Ormerod
QuoteMitch Dear Firefox3d One of the cheapest mods that should make your Ormerod more accurate, may be to replace the belts and pulleys with their GT2 equivalent. This means you won't get any rounding errors. Most objects I print and design are using the metric system, so I do find it a bit strange that the printer spends it's time microstepping to the closest imperial value. In reality, it's aby Davek0974 - Ormerod
I think there are plenty of improvements to be made to the y end plates - mounting direct to the extrusion is a big one, extending forwards for another extrusion probably another, however, i don't think the solid under plate will bring anything to the table - it won't stop twist in the rods only diagonal movement which won't really happen if the plates are mounted securely to the end of the extruby Davek0974 - Ormerod
Bump for new members, I can also do bed plates for Mk2 etc now.by Davek0974 - Ormerod
As I said, anything is pretty much possible, the main limiting factor is that i have to order a certain amount of metal so making just one of anything can be expensive but if we get some interest going then these parts are pretty easyby Davek0974 - Ormerod
I can do just the Mk2 bed support for a little more than the Mk1 as the metal is thicker so probably £20 ?by Davek0974 - Ormerod
Any interest in these parts in aluminium?? I could also do the two Mk1 Y-Ribs under the bed now if wantedby Davek0974 - Ormerod
Thanks again, 6mm is fine - gives a little more meat for little weight change, the holes would not move by my changing the thickness anyway. At a rough guesstimate, If i were to do these, I would have to make more than one set or else the price would be simply too high. I would therefore propose an estimate of £65 for a kit of the three parts including screws for assembly.by Davek0974 - Ormerod
Thanks Treito, Questions - They are made in 6mm thickness - is this needed if made from aluminium or would be better dropped to 5mm? Is there likely to be any demand for these parts if i made the whole set as a kit with screws etc? What is the correct dimension of the linear bearing - drawing has it as 20.9mm but that might be to make it a tight fit, my guess is 21mm - tight fits are differeby Davek0974 - Ormerod
Is it possible for some kind person to get the correct 3 files from the site? I downloaded a load of stuff from the GitHub links bet they seemed to be nothing to do with the bits in question??? Many thanks Daveby Davek0974 - Ormerod
I will have a look later, the curves make no difference at all to a machine - straight or curved its all the same. I would possibly alter things slightly - remove the locating lugs possibly and switch the nut-traps for threaded holes like the x-axis kits have. They only used nut-traps because you can't thread woodby Davek0974 - Ormerod
Yep, my stuff gets hands-on personal treatment on the CNC Flat 2D or 2.5D d shapes are no issue at all I think. Just need to see DXF etc so I can give options and a yay or nay to any job. Any time, just let me know.by Davek0974 - Ormerod